Wednesday 18 April: The conquest of Mount Tinbeerwah

Author: Mrs A

Location: Cooroibah, Sunshine Coast, Queensland

Despite a forecast of showers, we decided to head out on the bikes today and explore some of the local area on two wheels. Cooroibah is literally surrounded by the Noosa hinterland’s forests, reserves and National Parks, with many well maintained mountain bike trails, ranging from easy, through intermediate and up to black – the most challenging.

The rain held off for the first half an hour, but then came on in showers, mostly torrential, cooling us down on a still 27 degree centigrade day.We rode down Gyndier Drive, a locked gate road winding up through the forest. The route is used as part of the Noosa triathlon and twice a year the site for road and race cars which enter the Noosa Hill Climb, with 14 corners to race through – just us there today though, on our private road.

As we came out of the end of the drive we could see that ahead was Mount Tinbeerwah which had a lookout I was keen to climb up to. Mount Tinbeerwah had always been in our sights the past few days down in Noosa, looming to the west like a giant pyramid. We cycled along the access road, catching a glimpse of the lookout appearing very high and far away.

My first thought was ‘I can’t get up there!’…and then my stubbornness kicked in and I was determined to make it. Everything seemed to be against us, as the rain fell down as hail, and then in ridiculously heavy torrents. The road was mostly unpaved and the orange mud ran down in rivers, making the surface sticky and slippery as well as it already being extremely steep. We kept on going. Finally, we reached the carpark with some relief, and the rain stopped!We left the bikes leaning in the car park, hoping nobody would steal them, and hiked up the final kilometre to the summit, with fabulous views over Noosa Heads and the next rain shower heading our way.We enjoyed the view, then retraced our steps (wheels?) a short way before heading through the forest along an ‘easy’ route.I’m certain it is easy when dry, but the wet conditions had us slipping and sliding sideways down the tracks, thankfully staying upright. It was a short way from the end of this track back to our caravan, with just over 20km under our belts. Boiled eggs & Marmite soldiers burned off I think!

After a bite of lunch and hot showers, we headed off into Noosa so Mr A could successfully buy some swimming goggles, and then to the Noosa Yacht and Rowing Club to catch up with some more friends who live in the area.

Brian and Caroline used to live near to us in Sydney, before making the move to the Noosa hinterland back in 2009. Almost a decade later, they’ve brought up two gorgeous children and are very happy in the area. It was so nice to see them and hear how things are going.We headed back to camp for a relaxed evening. We move on from here tomorrow…

Tuesday 17 April – Back to the mothership

Author: Mr A

Location: Cooroibah, Sunshine Coast, Queensland

It was time to tear ourselves away from the hospitality of our friends Ray and Wendy and head back to the Zone, which had been stored up the road on a small campsite we had stayed at before the weekend.

But firstly there was the serious business of some brekky and deli food shopping at our favourite spot… Belmondo’s. This place stocks some seriously good food, even by Noosa standards. It all comes at a suitably high price of course, but at least you feel you are buying something special. I mean just look at these breakfast tacos! My excuse is it did sort of explode on me, oh and it was a “Miserable Monday” fasting day yesterday!Next door to the deli is Eumundi meats, an equally amazing treasure trove of some of the finest, and most expensive, meat goods I have ever seen. Tiny pieces of silverside enough for one at $35. We “just” brought some nitrate free bacon and organic pork sausages that had combined price ticket about the same as our weekly bill at Woolies! I’ve only just learnt about nitrates and why they should be avoided (if you can afford to). I can see why health and life expectancy is so clearly correlated with income. We spent $125 on breakfast, a few veggies and enough meat for a decent fry up. Blimey…

A few minutes drive up the road on the outskirts of Noosa and we were at our little oasis. A hectic few hours of sorting out the car and van and we were in Zone bliss again. The local farm chickens paid us a visit, much to Tassie’s consternation. This is a great place to come and escape Noosa’s pace. We have power, water, brand new toilet, shower, even a firepit and wood! All for $25 a night. Check on WikiCamps for Noosa Acreage Private Stays, then text the owner, Reon, on 0498 141118. He is full of useful tips for what to do around the area, a top bloke. It’s very low key, no website or anything, I think he enjoys chatting to the travellers as much as anything. I wish all our camps were as well kept and inviting as this one. I’d put it in our top 10 sites of the whole trip around Australia, and that’s a big call, as we’ve had some crackers.

Monday 16 April – Treated like royalty in Noosa

Author: Mrs A

Location: Noosaville, Sunshine Coast, Queensland

Another sunny day dawned in Noosa, the mercury climbing up to the early 30s, cooled by the ocean breezes, dancing their way across the river to our hosts’ apartment. We could definitely see ourselves living here, the lifestyle is very appealing.

Ray was determined to help encourage these thoughts, and after we had joined him and Wendy in a dawn swim and herbal tea in Noosa, kindly dropped us by boat to the beach near the famous Hastings Street shopping precinct. We love that there is peace and quiet, just the gentle lapping of the water and sound of the birds, so close to the hustle and bustle of the shops and restaurants.As we ambled down the street, checking out clothing stores, art galleries and jewellery shops, we watched people sitting outside busy restaurants with glasses of rosé, people watching. It so reminded us of Provence, except everyone speaks English and they accept Aussie dollars!

We mostly window shopped, tried on the odd thing or two but didn’t really purchase anything. Before long we got a call from Wendy letting us know that the chariot was returning to collect us, and would we like our towels and swimmers brought along so we could have a dip! Does life get any better than this?!

After a swim near the river mouth, Ray took us on a cruise around Noosa Head’s canals, past the multi million dollar mansions with water frontage and private boat moorings. So fascinating, and across the other side of the river, Noosa National Park, where we could see black kites nesting close to pied and great cormorants. Nature is never far away, and I believe a solid part of the planning for Noosa, to not let construction overtake the natural attraction of the area.A relaxed afternoon continued, with Mr A heading out on his bike to try and find some swimming goggles (a failed mission).We had a quiet evening, alcohol free with a vegetarian dinner shared with all. It was a fasting day, after all! We are so grateful to Wendy and Ray for their friendship and kindness over the past few days, we didn’t know them that well when we arrived last Thursday afternoon, but certainly now hope we have them as friends and soul mates for life.

Back to the caravan tomorrow, next time we’re in a boat it will be an inflatable Packraft!

Sunday 15 April – Captain Sandbank to the rescue

Author: Mr A

Location: Noosaville, Queensland

Sunday is market day in Noosa, so off we set on the bikes, a great level ride on cycle paths for 10 minutes and we were in the middle of one of the best best farmer’s market we have been to in Australia, outside of Sydney and the Margaret River. Every stall had such gorgeous looking fruit and veg, local artisan breads, meats, olives, cheeses and everything else that was yummy!It was sensory overload, and bike panniers were filled at a rate of knots. We tore ourselves away and cycled back, to find Ray and Wendy cooking up a storm of a breaky with their friends Sue and Chris who were house sitting in the apartment downstairs. The nitrate free bacon was definitely the tastiest I can ever remember.Catherine and I then jumped on the bikes again to explore around town, finding ourselves on a network of shared paths and ending up at the stunning main beach at the river mouth.We headed back through a packed out Hastings Street. Sunday would be a day to avoid coming down here, especially with a car, but we cruised past the traffic jams on our bikes of course.

No sooner had we arrived back than we were heading off again out on the boat, this time with a full load of folk, and a dog!Ray negotiated the sandbanks today very carefully, and pulled us up on the other side of the river mouth where the water was rapidly draining out, making for some fun fast floats with the current. We watched kite surfers racing across the water in the stiffening breeze, what amazing skill – it looked exhilarating.Sea eagles again soared overhead. What a place.

On the way back, a boat stopped in the channel called out to let us know they had engine trouble, so Captain Ray came to the rescue and we towed them back to the boat ramp.

Yet another fabulous dinner ended the day, with 8 of us demolishing plates of nachos covered in fresh veggies, a broccoli salad that was so tasty, roast potatoes and some really lean, tender lamb, all from the local market that morning. Wine flowed, laughter followed. What a night!

Saturday 14 April: Koala spotting before breakfast

Author: Mrs A

Location: Noosa, Queensland

The day began bright and early, driving down to Noosa’s Main Beach and heading off on a walk along the coast through the National Park. It was around 6.30am as we set off on our walk, and it was already busy with people, plenty of runners following their favourite route.

Wendy, Mr A and I were only a short way into our walk when we spotted a cute koala up a paperbark gumtree beside the track, looking a little perplexed that his morning nap had been disturbed by the masses.The walk continued along the coast, with a lookout at Dolphin Point (but no dolphins this morning), giving us a view up the coast towards Fraser Island.We were rewarded with fabulous views as we went, our walk concluding at Hell’s Gates, which promised Ospreys but failed to deliver!We strolled back along the coast to Main Beach, where Wendy and I threw ourselves into the water for a refreshing dip and jump in the waves, a fabulous treat after our warm walk. Mr A declined, and instead joined Ray for a coffee at his favourite café.Back at the ranch, we enjoyed a delicious scrambled egg breakfast outside on the balcony. We could definitely get used to this life, and Miss Tassie quite enjoys it too – she’s so adaptable!A relaxed afternoon followed and the day concluded with a delicious meal, for which we were joined by Chris and Sue. The goal of this meal was to use up all the food left in the fridge, in preparation for the farmer’s market tomorrow morning. The fun is never ending!

We even had an afternoon rain storm which cleared just in time to give us a fabulous sunset and a clear starlit night. We love having this view of the river, it changes frequently and is always seductive.

Friday 13 April: Noosa seduces

Author: Mr A

Location: Noosaville, Queensland

Our first full day in Noosa started early for me with a dawn swim with Ray. He is a regular down here swimming most mornings off the main beach in town, along with a bunch of other early risers keen to start their day in the water. The ocean was a perfect 24 degrees and I really enjoyed that! I’m not fond of cold water having endured the first 40 years of my life in the UK’s chilly clutches.

A coffee in one of the many lovely little joints along the famous Hastings Street was all part of the morning Noosa ritual for many it seems, judging by the number of people around – bearing in mind its still only 6.30am!

Ray and I then wandered a few hundred metres down the river from their apartment to get the boat, a slick 5.3 metre cruiser, and motored it back to the apartment’s private jetty to collect the girls, including Wendy’s lovely grandaughter Charlotte.

It was a stunning day for a boat trip, and soon we were beached on one of the many sand islands and having another swim. On the way back to the apartment we made an unplanned beaching, a hidden sandbank along the river catching our skipper by surprise and earning him the name Captain Sandbank!

What a life here in Noosa. We are absolutely seduced by it.

Tassie also enjoyed the attention from Charlotte.when we got back:

In the evening we went to Sum Yung Guys restaurant at Sunshine Beach, a 10 minute drive that gave us one of the best dinners we have ever eaten. Thai food cooked with the freshest local ingredients, served by knowledgeable young folk clearly passionate about providing a first rate experience for their customers.

My summary of Noosa; we could live here. It ticks all our boxes with safe cycling paths, endless paddling opportunities, plentiful dining out possibilities, friendly and classy locals who seem to take pride in their beautiful town. We just love it. No doubt our view is also coloured by our wonderful hosts Ray and Wendy who have made us just so welcome, and know how to show us the best of Noosa!

Thursday 12 April – Joyful in Noosa

Author: Mrs A

Location: Noosaville, Queensland

We moved our caravan to its $5 storage location across the site and packed up our little suitcases ready to stay with friends in Noosaville, still on the Sunshine Coast of Queensland.

We arrived just after noon, and after a few trips up and down the stairs transporting all our stuff (of course it looked like we were staying for several months, given we had Tassie’s bits and pieces too) we settled down on the balcony for a cup of tea and a home made dairy-free, gluten-free treat prepared by Wendy.

Tassie gradually settled in, after several explores of the apartment decided it was D.O.G. free enough to relax and settled down on our bed for a well deserved rest, as per usual.

After a tasty lunch and a bit of grocery shopping in town, it was back to prepare for a trip out on the boat. Ray and Wendy’s granddaughter Charlie is also staying with them at the moment, and Wendy’s former brother in-law Chris, and his wife Sue, are dog sitting two apartments down. It’s all a very holiday atmosphere!

Mr A and Ray went to collect the boat, and cruised on round to the apartment’s private wharf to collect us all, and off we went on the Noosa River for an explore, Charlie, Wendy and I sitting at the bow of the boat.Below: Charlie (Charlotte) took this of Wendy and IBelow: Chris and SueWe sped across the water, enjoying the fresh breeze that came with it.Charlie even helped skipper the boat, with the help of Ray of course.Reaching the other side of the river, we set off for a short walk across the dunes, watching jet skiers leaping over waves on the incoming tide at the river mouth. Ray and Charlie jumped in for a dip in the water. The rest of us stayed relatively dry, not quite feeling the need to swim and enjoying a glass of chilled Chardonnay as we watched them and the gradually setting sun.As we headed back to the apartment we diverted alongside the river bank where a beautiful White Bellied Sea-Eagle kindly posed for a few photos.Mr A and Ray returned the boat to its dock…I don’t think Mr A actually skippered, unless Ray hasn’t heard the stories yet…Following showers, a lovely evening ensued with a delicious chicken meal which had been cooking while we were out…wine was drunk, laughs were had, and geckos hunted (by Tassie, not us, though we did try to encourage them down off the ceiling so Tas could chase them!). Fabulous fun.

10-11April: Bye bye Bli Bli – Hello Zone RV!

Author: Mr A

Location: Sunshine Coast, Queensland

Tuesday

Try saying “Bye bye Bli Bli”…right…tricky. Well before we had to say it we headed off for a ride along the Maroochy river, and ended up in Mooloolaba – all one cycleway. The Sunshine Coast really seems to be getting behind providing cycling infrastructure. Great to see. A nice spot of lunch and back we headed to our caravan park.

And what an end to the day, Mrs A produced for dinner the most amazing Thai basil chilli stir-fry. It was just so delicious. She knows just how much heat we like, all the ingredients are made up from scratch, and there’s been many a Thai restaurant I’ve been to over the years that have turned out a lot less tastier food. Mmmm

Wednesday

It was a 7am getaway for a day we had been planning for months – our Zone was getting some warranty work and mods done at the factory in Coolum. We were warmly received by the team – we had met some faces before, but others had just been a helpful voice on the phone, so great to meet them in person.

The company has been growing fast and trying to keep pace with customer demand, hiring new staff and training them up. A quality problem to have! What an Australian success story, winning “Best Off Road Caravan” award in the first full year of producing that model. Now they have launched a “semi off-road” series that is also winning accolades.

The service team cracked through the work while we toured a few local lookouts and eventually parked up down a quiet road and tried to keep our adventurous cat amused.

Late afternoon and we were back at Zone with all the jobs having been ticked off.It was almost dark though as we headed off to find our camp for the night on a property north of Noosa. We pulled into the farmyard and there’s another Zone! Fellow Sydneysiders as well from the northern beaches enjoying their “gap year” travelling around Australia. We are looking forward to hearing their stories in the morning!

Sunday 8 & Monday 9 April – Onwards to Bli Bli

Author: Mrs A

Location: Bli Bli, Sunshine Coast, Queensland

Sunday morning saw us hitching up and heading down to the Fisherman’s Road Sunday Market in Maroochydore. We knew nothing more about it other than a note on WikiCamps stating it existed and had caravan parking.

There was indeed plenty of space for a caravan, and we parked up and ambled around the stalls, dodging the rain showers. It was a pretty good market, reminding us of those in France with plant stalls, shoes and hardware sold alongside fresh fruit and vegetables. It was of course much more expensive than French markets, and with more tropical produce – Thai eggplants and custard apples made it into our shopping bags. We picked up a $7 chicken pad Thai each for lunch.

From there we made our way to Bli Bli, a small settlement on the banks of the Maroochy River, and our unpowered campsite which was to be our home for the next three days.

As we often do, we jumped on our bikes for an explore. We found a cycleway across the road from where we’re staying which winds around the edge of the mangrove wetlands, eventually leading to the Wetlands Sanctuary. We left our bikes, sprayed copiously with deet (the mosquitoes were out in their millions and feeling hungry), and explored the boardwalks. Mosquitoes aside, it was a great area to explore, a rare chance to walk amongst the mangroves, spotting the Orange-clawed Fiddler Crabs on the mud flats, and birds flitting around catching flies.

Monday morning saw us heading out to climb Mount Coolum. It’s just a short drive from us on the coast, and a popular viewing point. The climb to the top is mostly via stone steps, and in the late morning heat was quite taxing, but well worth it when you reach the refreshing breeze and incredible views.Above – Mr & Mrs A, behind us looking out to Yaroomba and south to Maroochydore.And here looking all the way south to Mooloolaba…Looking northwards to Noosa Heads in the far distance…And inland, to Coolum Creek Conservation Park and beyond. Stunning scenery. The climb down was probably harder on the legs than the way up!Our afternoon was far less interesting, consisting of a visit to the local car wash, downloading some Netflix at the local library and picking up some supplies at Woolworths!

Friday 6 April: With the sunshine comes hiking

Author: Mrs A

Location: Maleny and Landsborough, Queensland. Distance hiked: 10km

Finally we opened the blinds this morning and saw blue sky and sunshine beaming through fluffy white clouds, such a relief after several days of grey gloom and rain. We excitedly pulled on our hiking shoes and drove a short way to Mary Cairncross Scenic Reserve.

This is a significant part of the just 1% remaining rainforest between here and Gladstone, donated in the 1960s by the Cairncross family in memory of their mother. It’s run by Sunshine Coast Council and funded largely by donations. There is an excellent information centre, lecture theatres, a café and viewing platform looking across the Glass House Mountains.After checking out the views, we followed a walking trail through the rainforest. Many of the trees are centuries old, with ancient creepers climbing up to the canopy. The birdlife is prolific but very hard to see – mostly up high consuming the rainforest’s riches in fruits and seeds. The scenery is so rich in new sights, with rare trees on every corner, and twisting undergrowth. This rainforest is home to many furry creatures too – we saw flying foxes (fruit bats), and hidden away there are also pademelons (little wallabies), sugar gliders (flying possums), snakes, lizards and more.Finally our walk came to an end, so we returned to the Maleny Showgrounds, hitched up the caravan and moved just 17 minutes drive down the road to Landsborough. We’d booked this site a while ago, when we noticed it would be Easter holidays when we were in the area. We pulled in realising the campsite is actually nowhere near the actual village of Landsborough, and at the top of a very steep and busy road. Ah – so no cycling from camp down to the local pub from here then. Ah well. In its favour, we are fairly centrally located, and it was just a 20 minute drive from another walk we were keen to do, down in the Glass House Mountains themselves.This was the circuit walk around Mount Tibrogargan, one of the hikes recommended by our friend Karel, who’s house we stayed at last weekend. It’s not a challenging walk, with some great views around the way and only some short climbing. We tacked on another trail, the Trachyte Circuit onto our walk at the end to extend the distance and experience.The walk took us through casuarina groves, past giant eucalypts and through melaleuca forest. Dwarf and yellow candle banksia flowers accompanied our journey, along with the odd frog brought out by the wet weather.

We mostly stayed dry, but a heavy shower hit us just as we reached our final lookout, making for a dramatic viewpoint and a nice cool down before we hiked our final kilometres back to the car.Back at the mobile apartment, showers were definitely welcomed, before cooking up a fasting-day Friday dinner of vegetarian red curry followed by fruit, with some more Netflix to entertain us – a couple of episodes of Jack Taylor this evening (thanks Mr Ward for the recommendation!).