Author: Mr A
Location: Kenilworth, Queensland
It was a late morning departure from our camp at Coolibah, filling the water tanks in preparation for the upcoming off the grid camping at Kenilworth River Camp. We turned off the main road into the driveway and this view pointed the way to our base for the weekend. What a great recommendation from fellow Zoners Libby and Phil Clem.
We chose a site on the lush banks of the Mary River, and then right behind us pulled up another Zone, it was Greg Nolan in his almost matching rig, the grey Landcruiser and shiny caravan, albeit a slightly longer one.
Catherine immediately spotted an Azure kingfisher perched on a post right in front of us, one of our favourite birds. Tassie then provided her endorsement by jumping out of the car and queuing at the Zone door ready to settle down for some much needed shut eye after her busy morning of sleeping in the car.
Phil Clem was due to arrive at lunch as he had thoughtfully organised to bring some gazebos and firewood, but sadly got an irreparable puncture and was delayed until late afternoon. However, once here he was his usual whirlwind of activity and we soon had gazebos up and firewood all stacked ready.
Plans were made for the four of us to head out kayaking in the morning, the river looked just too inviting not to as after all this rain it was flowing nicely. We cracked open some fine wine and enjoyed dinner under the stars before a peaceful night, lulled to sleep by the gentle flowing of water.
We rode down Gyndier Drive, a locked gate road winding up through the forest. The route is used as part of the Noosa triathlon and twice a year the site for road and race cars which enter the Noosa Hill Climb, with 14 corners to race through – just us there today though, on our private road.
Everything seemed to be against us, as the rain fell down as hail, and then in ridiculously heavy torrents. The road was mostly unpaved and the orange mud ran down in rivers, making the surface sticky and slippery as well as it already being extremely steep. We kept on going. Finally, we reached the carpark with some relief, and the rain stopped!
We left the bikes leaning in the car park, hoping nobody would steal them, and hiked up the final kilometre to the summit, with fabulous views over Noosa Heads and the next rain shower heading our way.
We enjoyed the view, then retraced our steps (wheels?) a short way before heading through the forest along an ‘easy’ route.
I’m certain it is easy when dry, but the wet conditions had us slipping and sliding sideways down the tracks, thankfully staying upright. It was a short way from the end of this track back to our caravan, with just over 20km under our belts. Boiled eggs & Marmite soldiers burned off I think!
We headed back to camp for a relaxed evening. We move on from here tomorrow…
Next door to the deli is Eumundi meats, an equally amazing treasure trove of some of the finest, and most expensive, meat goods I have ever seen. Tiny pieces of silverside enough for one at $35. We “just” brought some nitrate free bacon and organic pork sausages that had combined price ticket about the same as our weekly bill at Woolies! I’ve only just learnt about nitrates and why they should be avoided (if you can afford to). I can see why health and life expectancy is so clearly correlated with income. We spent $125 on breakfast, a few veggies and enough meat for a decent fry up. Blimey…
As we ambled down the street, checking out clothing stores, art galleries and jewellery shops, we watched people sitting outside busy restaurants with glasses of rosé, people watching. It so reminded us of Provence, except everyone speaks English and they accept Aussie dollars!
A relaxed afternoon continued, with Mr A heading out on his bike to try and find some swimming goggles (a failed mission).
We had a quiet evening, alcohol free with a vegetarian dinner shared with all. It was a fasting day, after all! We are so grateful to Wendy and Ray for their friendship and kindness over the past few days, we didn’t know them that well when we arrived last Thursday afternoon, but certainly now hope we have them as friends and soul mates for life.
It was sensory overload, and bike panniers were filled at a rate of knots. We tore ourselves away and cycled back, to find Ray and Wendy cooking up a storm of a breaky with their friends Sue and Chris who were house sitting in the apartment downstairs. The nitrate free bacon was definitely the tastiest I can ever remember.
Catherine and I then jumped on the bikes again to explore around town, finding ourselves on a network of shared paths and ending up at the stunning main beach at the river mouth.
We headed back through a packed out Hastings Street. Sunday would be a day to avoid coming down here, especially with a car, but we cruised past the traffic jams on our bikes of course.
Ray negotiated the sandbanks today very carefully, and pulled us up on the other side of the river mouth where the water was rapidly draining out, making for some fun fast floats with the current. We watched kite surfers racing across the water in the stiffening breeze, what amazing skill – it looked exhilarating.
Sea eagles again soared overhead. What a place.
The walk continued along the coast, with a lookout at Dolphin Point (but no dolphins this morning), giving us a view up the coast towards Fraser Island.
We were rewarded with fabulous views as we went, our walk concluding at Hell’s Gates, which promised Ospreys but failed to deliver!
We strolled back along the coast to Main Beach, where Wendy and I threw ourselves into the water for a refreshing dip and jump in the waves, a fabulous treat after our warm walk. Mr A declined, and instead joined Ray for a coffee at his favourite café.
Back at the ranch, we enjoyed a delicious scrambled egg breakfast outside on the balcony. We could definitely get used to this life, and Miss Tassie quite enjoys it too – she’s so adaptable!
A relaxed afternoon followed and the day concluded with a delicious meal, for which we were joined by Chris and Sue. The goal of this meal was to use up all the food left in the fridge, in preparation for the farmer’s market tomorrow morning. The fun is never ending!
We love having this view of the river, it changes frequently and is always seductive.
Tassie also enjoyed the attention from Charlotte.when we got back:
In the evening we went to Sum Yung Guys restaurant at Sunshine Beach, a 10 minute drive that gave us one of the best dinners we have ever eaten. Thai food cooked with the freshest local ingredients, served by knowledgeable young folk clearly passionate about providing a first rate experience for their customers.
Below: Charlie (Charlotte) took this of Wendy and I
Below: Chris and Sue
We sped across the water, enjoying the fresh breeze that came with it.
Charlie even helped skipper the boat, with the help of Ray of course.
Reaching the other side of the river, we set off for a short walk across the dunes, watching jet skiers leaping over waves on the incoming tide at the river mouth. Ray and Charlie jumped in for a dip in the water. The rest of us stayed relatively dry, not quite feeling the need to swim and enjoying a glass of chilled Chardonnay as we watched them and the gradually setting sun.
As we headed back to the apartment we diverted alongside the river bank where a beautiful White Bellied Sea-Eagle kindly posed for a few photos.
Mr A and Ray returned the boat to its dock…I don’t think Mr A actually skippered, unless Ray hasn’t heard the stories yet…
Following showers, a lovely evening ensued with a delicious chicken meal which had been cooking while we were out…wine was drunk, laughs were had, and geckos hunted (by Tassie, not us, though we did try to encourage them down off the ceiling so Tas could chase them!). Fabulous fun.
And what an end to the day, Mrs A produced for dinner the most amazing Thai basil chilli stir-fry. It was just so delicious. She knows just how much heat we like, all the ingredients are made up from scratch, and there’s been many a Thai restaurant I’ve been to over the years that have turned out a lot less tastier food. Mmmm
Late afternoon and we were back at Zone with all the jobs having been ticked off.
It was almost dark though as we headed off to find our camp for the night on a property north of Noosa. We pulled into the farmyard and there’s another Zone! Fellow Sydneysiders as well from the northern beaches enjoying their “gap year” travelling around Australia. We are looking forward to hearing their stories in the morning!
We left our bikes, sprayed copiously with deet (the mosquitoes were out in their millions and feeling hungry), and explored the boardwalks. 
Mosquitoes aside, it was a great area to explore, a rare chance to walk amongst the mangroves, spotting the Orange-clawed Fiddler Crabs on the mud flats, and birds flitting around catching flies.
Above – Mr & Mrs A, behind us looking out to Yaroomba and south to Maroochydore.
And here looking all the way south to Mooloolaba…
Looking northwards to Noosa Heads in the far distance…
And inland, to Coolum Creek Conservation Park and beyond. Stunning scenery. The climb down was probably harder on the legs than the way up!
Our afternoon was far less interesting, consisting of a visit to the local car wash, downloading some Netflix at the local library and picking up some supplies at Woolworths!
