Sunday 18 February – Another day, another lake

Author: Mrs A

Location: Tabourie Lake and Burrill Lake, NSW

Another blue sky morning greeted us, and we decided to start with a healthy breakfast of fruit and cereal before heading out. Mich and Dan had to pack up their tent before we set off, but it didn’t take long and we were driving up the coast a short 13km to Burrill Lake. The Pacific Highway travels over this lake, and we had often looked at it longingly, wondering what it would be like to paddle on. Today we found out.We parked up by a boat ramp and launched into the lake. This waterway is open to the ocean and therefore much clearer than Lake Tabourie, and also tidal. As we set off, the tide was rushing in, giving us a high speed boost on our exploration. There was plenty of birdlife on this lake, with pelicans, cormorants, black swans and also a juvenile White-Bellied Sea-Eagle. Much of the waterway is lined by Meroo National Park, making for some scenic paddling.We returned to the cars after about 6.5km, yesterday’s purchase of prawns and fresh oysters calling our names. After a fabulous feast, we said our farewells, Mich and Dan heading back to Sydney, and us returning to camp to make some plans for the coming weeks. We did some research made some campsite bookings over a pot of tea, plus booked a boat trip out to an island for Wednesday – definitely lots to look forward to.

We then decided to go for a walk over to Tabourie Beach. It was very peaceful, with many of the weekend’s visitors now also departed for home, and it was great to appreciate the beauty of the wild coastline. Tropical Cyclone Gita (which has wracked havoc in Tonga and now is heading to New Zealand), while a long way away from where we are, has thrown up some impressive swells, and the coastline was shrouded in a mist of salt spray, muting the colours.We noticed that the tide was low enough to allow us walking access over to Crampton Island, just off the coast, and headed over for an explore, returning as we noticed the first waves beginning to cross the sandbank.We finished off our day by getting somewhat packed up ready to depart tomorrow, showering and cooking dinner, enjoying that with a glass of wine and our latest Netflix addiction…I wonder what tomorrow will bring?

Saturday 17 February – It’s a double Mirage…doubled

Author: Mr A

Location: Lake Tabourie

Today was an auspicious occasion as we finally managed to get on the water with our friends who also have a double Mirage kayak. But first there was black pudding to be barbecued, eggs, and bacon completing the breakfast of champion paddlers.

The next job was to get the 7.3 metre beasts into the water, down a rather slippy bank which predictably I slid down with all the grace of crazed bull. Dan gave me that special sympathetic look he does so well. He of course manages to nimbly jump in, all six foot 2 of him. And we are off, paddles glinting in the sun, sleek hulls cutting through the water, what a couple of doubles.It was a short paddle down the creek to where it nearly flowed into the ocean, only being prevented by a spit of stunning white sand. A quick look around and we were off again, with the wind behind us it was time to tease Dan and Michelle with a glide past under wind power, only because they didn’t have one. Finding a piece of equipment that Dan doesn’t have is quite a feat. We are brothers from a different mother.

The bird life was prolific again today with several sightings of azure kingfishers flitting around, spoonbills and egrets fishing for lunch and a sea eagle soaring above us.We paddled up stream a few kilometers then turned round and headed back to camp for a lazy afternoon punctuated regularly by snacks and drinks. The “Prawn Man” (guess what he sells) turned up to tempt us with fresh Clyde river oysters and Queensland prawns.Which of course were served up with a superb Margaret River Brash Vineyard Sancerre style Sauvignon Blanc.

We finished off the day with a delicious Mexican dish cooked up by Mich (accompanied by manservant Dan) and some great wines, topping off a fabulous day.

Friday 16 February – We investigate Tabourie Lake by water

Author: Mrs A

Location: Tabourie Lake, NSW

The early cloud soon cleared to provide us with a lovely blue sky morning with little wind. We decided to take advantage of the good weather to launch our kayak and have an explore. The northern side of Tabourie Creek is just a few metres from our camp, so it was an easy wheel to the water’s edge.

There were not many people out on the water, the occasional person fishing along the shoreline. The creek is closed to the ocean, reaching a sandy beach at one end and stretching inland the other way. It is quite shallow – in many places less than half a metre deep, but fine for our kayak and preventing motorised craft from annoying us. The White-Spotted jellyfish we spotted yesterday were plentiful, like little aliens shooting around the waterway – they’re not poisonous to humans, but I still wouldn’t fancy swimming amongst them!

We explored Lemontree Creek, an offshoot from Tabourie Creek, spying on the quiet houses lining its banks, mostly holiday homes we are guessing. We were entertained by fish leaping and a pair of Azure Kingfishers which shot up and down the riverbanks, their orange chests and blue wings flashing through the green undergrowth. As we reached the end of the navigable creek we surprised a bush wallaby which stood frozen, almost gaping at our boat as we cruised along. We were reminded that kayaking is by far the most effective way of getting close to nature. Some of our past experiences are right out of a David Attenborough nature documentary including whales, dolphins, kestrels and eagles, and today was no different. As we rounded the corner out of Lemontree Creek I noticed a huge bird in the tree just metres from us. It took a few seconds to realise it was a massive White-bellied Sea-Eagle, finishing its fishy meal. I tried to capture it on the camera – a challenge on the little waterproof one – this is one moment when I wish I had my telephoto lens!If you look carefully on the left of the image, you can see the great bird taking flight – just magnificent, with a wingspan of around 2 metres.

We clocked up just over 9km by the time we reached camp, and were ready for lunch.

Tonight, two of our friends from Sydney, Michelle and Dan have joined us for the weekend, following a slow drive south through Friday night traffic. A dinner of roast chicken, salad and sweet potato wedges plus several glasses of wine have helped them to wind down after their journey and we’re hoping the weather forecast is right for this weekend and we will indeed be blessed with blue skies and sunshine. We’ve ordered more Kingfishers and Sea-Eagles to entertain us tomorrow – let’s hope the booking is honoured!

Thursday 15 February: Tabourie Lake

Author: Mr A

Location: Tabourie Lake, just south of Ulladulla, NSW

It was time to leave our riverside spot in Jervis Bay and move to…a riverside spot by Tabourie Creek. Pretty good life we have, I know.

It was only an hour’s drive down the coast so we were checking in before lunch at Lake Tabourie Caravan Park. Unfortunately the young lady checking us us in seemed to have had a courtesy bypass operation, insisting in a very strident voice that we couldn’t have mentioned we had a cat as we were booked into the pet free area. I recounted again that we had mentioned this when booking and suggested she should calm down. We were moved to a pet friendly area and spent the next 10 minutes driving round their very large park trying to find our site. Not a helpful map – they have left off the street names. When we finally found it we were delighted though, a huge grassy site still quite close to the river.

We decided to try out our borrowed screen room (thank you Jenny and David), not that there were any flies, but we wanted to get Tassie used to it. The idea is she can be outside with us but secure from any dogs who might take a dislike – despite the fact that they should all be leashed, they often aren’t. It worked exceedingly well with Miss Mania, as we call her, joining us for tea and a read – well, we read she eyed up the neighbour’s dog a little warily! She definitely likes it here more than the previous location – she was very clear with her feelings as we drove down the coast, tearing up the Jervis Bay campground map!It was bed sheets and clothes washing today, blustery and sunny, ideal conditions, in fact so windy Catherine nearly took off with the sheets. While they dried we headed off on the bikes for our customary exploration of our surroundings. A big thumbs up, we have riverside, beachside, surfside, the lot.

(Below: Mrs A overlooking Crampton Island)(Below: one of the many jellyfish we spotted in the creek) Superb surroundings, and looking forward to sharing them with our friends Michelle and Dan who arrive tomorrow night for the weekend, complete with their double kayak matching ours.

Wednesday 14 February – DIY plumbing & an emergency bikini purchase

Author: Mrs A

Location: Jervis Bay, NSW

The day began in the mid 20s but the temperature soon climbed to 30 degrees centigrade and above, topping out at around 37 degrees. Slightly too warm for the long cycle ride we had earmarked for today’s activity. First though, we needed to tackle a plumbing issue…this is detailed at the end of this post for those interested in such banalities!

Housekeeping completed, we decided to take a picnic to the beach and get cool in the water. We drove out to Hyam’s Beach – it wasn’t too busy, being midweek, but we hear that weekends and holidays here are absolutely chockablock with visitors, with two hour delays on the roads. Not our idea of fun!

Hyams Beach is famous for its clean white fine sand, which leads to the crystal clear turquoise waters of Jervis Bay. The sand literally squeaks when you walk on it, and doesn’t get too hot, even on a steamy 35+ degree day. We settled down on a clear space and I went to get out my sarong and bikini…not in my bag. I went back to the car to hunt through there – still nothing. Mr A then remembered it had been put in the back of my bicycle, safely left back at camp! It was slightly like torture, being so close to the water but unable to throw myself in!

So after lunch we popped into Vincentia and found me a bikini, and then back to the beach to get wet! Once you’re in, the water is spectacular, in the early 20s temperature wise, and just gentle waves coming in to shore. Beautiful – some quality time was spent just floating and enjoying the water’s natural rhythms.We returned to camp via a few groceries, and made a start on packing up ready to move on, before having showers and getting ready for dinner. Mr A called out in delight as he found a family of ducks and ducklings exploring around our kayak – they were the cutest and definitely deserved a photo!We had decided to book dinner out in Huskisson, originally not realising it was Valentines Day, but then post justifying our dinner decision with that as an excuse! A few friends had mentioned Wild Ginger as a location – a restaurant specialising in South East Asian food, particularly Thai but incorporating a multitude of flavours and influences. The chef had worked at some top Thai restaurants in Sydney, so we had high hopes.

The restaurant also has a cocktail bar, but we decided to stick to wine, and purchased a bottle of Vasse Felix Chardonnay we thought would cut through the spices nicely. We were shown to our outside table, the air wonderfully fresh now a southerly change had blown through the area, dropping the temperatures by more than 10 degrees. We chose a banquet menu.All the food was delicious, the service was a little average – a 45 minute wait between entrees and mains, and staff that carefully avoided eye contact when you tried to reach their attention! Still, we had a lovely evening, and cycled the 2km safely back to camp afterwards along the cycle lanes.

And finally, for our Zoner readers, here’s more about the plumbing for your learning path.

Our water pressure had been pretty ordinary, despite being on the caravan park’s mains tap, so we decided to fill up our water tanks and see whether the pressure changed that way. Short answer – no. So we went through a whole range of checks and tests, searching for an air lock, looking for kinked pipes, cleaning – all to no avail. We put a service call into Zone, but Rhys (Mr Fixit) had gone home sick, so we were on our own. We decided to take off the filter and try backwashing it, in case there was a blockage – all stuff we had never done before, but good to learn, at which point Mr A remembered we were carrying a new filter…We popped it on and we turned on the taps…voila – strong water pressure again. Just a full filter…

Monday & Tuesday 12-13 February: Moving south to Jervis Bay

Author: Mr A

Location: Huskisson, Jervis Bay, NSW

What goes in must come out right? I’m referring to the fact that we had managed to get the Zone RV into a tight spot in our friends’ garden – surely it must be able to come out the same way? It was tight…very tight…and of course the hand held radio Catherine uses to help direct me chose this moment to play up. Finally we managed to back our way down the drive and were on our way, with great memories of a wonderful weekend.

We were soon at our first stop, the Fresh Food Market at Nowra, a pricey but good source for stocking up. Our friends Chris and Karen happened to be down at Bowral on a Porsche club run, so they diverted via Nowra and it was all into the Zone for a catch up. Who needs a coffee shop?

A short drive down the coast took us to Jervis Bay Holiday park, our home for the next three nights. It was a very tight squeeze into the site. I had given our towed length when booking, but somehow this hadn’t been taken into account. However, we had a view of the river and with some careful manoeuvring soon settled in. We decided to check out the ride into Huskisson (Husky to the locals), it was a great little bike path and we were in town within 10 minutes. What a pleasure to have some cycling infrastructure!We also noticed that the town looked pretty much the same as it did years ago when we last visited. After our shock at how Orange had changed (and not for the better), it was a relief to see at least Husky has not been exploited by developers with a friend on the council.

This morning we launched our sleek sea kayak onto the river right by our camp, so convenient. We headed downstream and were soon in Huskisson again – the second purely person powered visit 🙂 We coasted out into Jervis Bay proper, which even on an overcast day looked simply stunning.Brunch was calling so we headed park to our launch point and I fired up the Weber. It was our first bacon and eggs of the trip, and won’t be the last I can tell you! Catherine toasted some sweet potato slices instead of having bread…not bad.

Then we decided to head upstream and with the wind briefly behind us hoisted the sail. That’s right, a sail on a kayak. After a 20 minute paddle Catherine said “Oh look some caravans…oh…there’s ours!” We had paddled around an island and come right back! Ah well..time for Google maps assistance…and off we went again this time managing to head up the river. It really was awesome, massive sting rays were lurking in the water, their blinking eyes the only clue they were there. After we got past some houses we didn’t see anyone else on the river. Very tranquil, its what we love about kayaking. We saw heaps of water birds, including a kingfisher flashing his bright blue wings as he chased some lunch. Cormorants aired their wings in the sun, an eagle flashed overhead chased by a crow. We felt at peace with the world, remembering that this was a Tuesday morning and how privileged are we to be enjoying this life.We paddled back to camp and decided to head into Nowra, we wanted to buy a Soda Stream and this would be our last chance. We drink a lot of sparkling water and wanted to be free from picking up our 6/7 bottles a week and then creating all that plastic waste, often in areas with no recycling. We tested it out and were pretty happy with the result.

Yesterday we had picked up our first dozen of south coast oysters, so a glass of Adelaide Hills Chardy just went beautifully with those, sitting in the sun watching the river flow (is that a song?). Dinner was selected from an Asian curry cookbook we had decided to bring along. It was a dish called Kukul Mus Kari, a Sri Lankan chicken curry. Pretty fancy…pretty delicious. Mrs A does it again.

We wandered outside to catch the last light of the day, the river was still flowing, I hope it always does.

Sunday 11 February: A sumptuous banquet in Jamberoo

Author: Mrs A

Location: Around Berry and Jamberoo, NSW

Thank goodness I passed on breakfast and we did a good cycle this morning, for the afternoon held many delights.

The day started with Barb and Omar busy preparing for the SlowFood Saddleback fundraiser picnic we had been invited to join them on. It was all frenzied activity while home made hummus, Egyptian falafels, Tabouleh, baked Salmon Tarator, deconstructed salad and watermelon were all prepared…a veritable feast. Around 11am we all hopped on bikes to head off on a bike ride around some of the local country lanes in need of some pre-lunch calorie burning.

Barb and Omar took their beautiful wooden road bikes, while Mr A and I borrowed their new eBikes. We set off down their lane and turned left, along stunning gum tree lined roads, rolling green hills making up our views. As we began to go uphill, I realised I was being left behind and that my eBike was extremely quiet…I struggled along for a bit, but then had to stop, concluding that the 16.5kg bike was not turned on.

Mr A and Omar turned around and came back to find me, and we tried to work out what was happening. The very kind Mr A offered me his working eBike, and proceeded to have a super workout on mine, given he has a fully working airway and wouldn’t be Darth Vadering his way up the hills like me. Off we went, continuing on our journey. A working eBike was much more fun, and I whizzed up the hills with barely any effort. Mr A managed 7km before turning back for home, while the rest of us did about another 2 or so kilometres before we turned back.

After showers we headed off to Jambaroo, an area inland from Kiama. Omar drove and wound us through beautiful scenery up and up into the hills. Our destination was a property belonging to one of the leaders of SlowFood Saddleback, Saddleback being the uppermost ridge in the area.

The gathering was very well organised, with picnic benches provided in a field with beautiful views, and even a couple of porta-loos in the parking area – I was relieved, picturing having to crouch behind a gum tree if one’s bladder had needed emptying – very civilised! Out came Barb’s incredible food, accompanied by food prepared by her friend Julie, who was considering joining the group. Amazing dish after amazing dish came out – just delicious. We absolutely feasted, Mr A particularly munching on at least one piece of cake, but avoiding the glass of Riesling offered (because of the calories – ha ha!).

We rolled back to the car and returned to Barb and Omar’s for a cleansing cup of tea to help it all settle, all of us on the verge of very happy food comas. No dinner tonight required…just a relaxing evening before a low calorie Monday ahead.

Friday 9 Feb: Fat biking on 7-Mile Beach

Author: Mrs A

It was time to move on from Kiama, so we packed up, hitched up and drove off south down the coast. Our first destination was Black Head Reserve in Gerroa, where we were able to park up and enjoy breakfast with fabulous ocean views in every direction. The morning was overcast and somewhat hazy, the humidity high. From there we drove further south and towards Berry, where we pulled into our friends acreage and set up camp on their lawn.

Barb is an old friend I originally met at work – we’ve known her and Omar for about 17 years. They moved down to Berry several years ago and have a fabulous time on their property – currently with lawn mowing sheep, hens and lots of vegetables. Over the years they have also experimented with pigs, guinea fowl and a trout farm in their swimming pool. You never know what to expect when you arrive, other than a multitude of bikes, excellent fresh food and great conversation.

We were somewhat tied to the tide, so to say, and had no sooner arrived than were jumping on our bikes (I borrowed a fat bike) and riding the short way down from the house to the beach for a ride. The giant tyres on the bikes help you to plough your way across the sand for a ride – great fun.We returned for a fabulous salad of fresh produce from Barb and Omar’s garden and sheep cheese for lunch.

Tassie likes it here. We popped on her lead and she happily explored the garden, getting a fright when a giant hare leaped out of a bush in front of us and bounded off into a nearby field. Tassie’s first hare!

As the afternoon drew on we could hear thunder rumbling in the background and the sky grew dark. Mr A and Omar fitted up a light bar into Barb’s newly renovated kitchen, and we commenced preparations for the evening’s dinner. A particularly loud boom from the heavens and most of the power went off – notably in the kitchen. Not exactly ideal for dinner preparations. Barbara, cool as a cucumber, changed plans slightly and dinner went into a slow cooker plugged into a circuit powered by the Tesla battery, accompanied by rice in a rice cooker, and vegetables on the BBQ. Dinner solved!

Two other friends, Alan and Jo who live a short drive away on the other side of Berry, joined us for dinner – a fun evening ensued of wine, laughter and stories of goats. A great night and our first evening past midnight for the trip!

Thursday 8 Feb: Ups and downs in Kiama

Author: Mr A

Location: Kiama and surrounds

I guess the clue should have been in the name, Kiama Downs. As we set off on our bikes along the coast, hill after near vertical hill seemed to be in our immediate future. But the views were fantastic! We could see miles along the coast on this beautiful summer’s day. A trifle warm for hilly riding at 30 degrees but a lovely north-easterly breeze was blowing in our faces. There’s nothing quite like riding a bike to bring a smile to your face…well going downhill anyway.We managed to miss our turn off to stay on a cycleway, and ended up on main road for a bit, then found it again and cruised into our destination of Minnamurra. This turned out to be a sleepy little village, with a one platform railway station on the South NSW line. We found the only cafe and ordered some much needed sustenance. One Chicken Club and a Chicken Caesar Salad demolished. Time for the return match. My eagle eyed Map Girl saw a faint footpath line on Google so we headed for that and followed a fabulous path right along the cliff tops.A few more hills and we were soon back in Kiama, with an ice creamery seeming to jump into our path. Wow that went down well. Mrs A with her mango sorbet and me with some English toffee ice cream. Just bliss. 20km ticked off and 1000 calories consumed!Back at the Zone, Tassie seemed to greet us rather grumpily, after all she only just had a 4 hour nap, apparently not quite enough.Dinner tonight was Cambodian fish amok. We both loved the food when we visited the country and Mrs A has added a couple of cracking dishes from their cuisine into her extensive repertoire. The fresh veggies from the farmers market yesterday just added to the flavours.

While I’m on the subject of food (I’m barely off it in this post am I?) we have decided to experiment with using the car fridge as freezer to give us more storage space. It’s working fine when we are on power in a park, but off the grid I don’t see it as feasible unless you have a bank of solar panels and add a third battery somewhere in the already tightly packed Cruiser. I ran the car fridge off power the first day and it was pretty much drained after about 17hrs – which is about normal given the draw of a freezer. We do have a solar blanket (small flexible panels mounted on a foldable backing) but I’ve never seen it pump in more than 2.3 Amps to the batteries even in full sun, so it should extend the time a little but won’t keep up with the drain. It’s a early model from Kimberley Kampers. Enough said. Apart from this all our set up is pretty much the same as on our last trip.

Wednesday 7 February – Exploring Kiama

Author: Mrs A

Location: Kiama, NSW

We had a relaxing slow start to the morning, free from worries about plumbing, gardening or packing. If we haven’t got it now then we’re having to do without it! We decided to put on our walking shoes and investigate the Kiama Coastal Walk. The full walk spans the distance between Kiama and Gerringong, a picturesque 22km following the grassy clifftops.We followed the walk around for about 3km, stopping to watch the Little Blowhole perform its show – a loud ‘whomp’ preceding the gush of water as it follows the old lava dyke under the rocks and up through the gap. We got nicely refreshed by the spray!Not long after here we both had to stop and rest in the shade. Mark’s plantar fasciitis in his heel was causing him pain while walking, and my Morton’s Neuroma was giving me an agonising burning pain in the ball of my right foot too. I guess the cortisone injection I had last week hasn’t made a difference. We are a pair of old crocs! We looked longingly at the gorgeous looking pathway stretching into the distance over the cliff and hobbled back to camp.

As the afternoon progressed we decided to hop on the bikes and ride into Kiama for the farmer’s market. It was busy and bustling, primarily fresh produce from surrounding areas but also some food stalls, a winery and brewery. We tried the wine but it was not to our taste, and neither was the beer. We did find a sheep cheese producer from Robinson – we have tried their cheese before, being one of the few in Australia – and purchased some delicious nectarines from Orange.We took our goodies and rode back to camp for a healthy salad and a glass of rosé.