Author: Mrs A
Location: Narooma, NSW
Well I kind of fibbed about the sunshine, as it was fairly overcast all day, but at least it wasn’t torrential rain and wind. We had a busy morning ticking off tasks, with washing done, new battery fitted to the vacuum cleaner and then the call from the Airbag Man to walk us through a work around for our misbehaving suspension.
The aim of the airbags (other than providing suspension while driving, for those who are not in the know) is to enable us to balance out the caravan when we are parked up, allowing us to park on quite uneven sites and still ensure that (inside at least) everything is even. It’s a bit of a luxury – when we were travelling around in France a couple of years ago in a motorhome, levelling meant carefully driving onto blocks of wood or sloping pieces of plastic, not flicking a remote control!
The work around meant unplugging some of the hoses and connecting them directly to the manual inflation – bypassing the automatic system. It means a little bit more work when arriving and departing from campsites, but at least will tide us over for the next few weeks until we reach Zone in Coolum Beach for a service, and hopefully a full replacement of the control panel and all hoses.
We also decided to get started on making our first sourdough loaf. Just before we left Sydney we were treated to a masterclass by our friend and expert sourdough baker, Andy, and were entrusted with a little pot of sourdough starter to keep alive. The starter was extremely happy to be on a camping trip and at one point got so enthusiastic it almost left the fridge by itself, bubbling out of its pot and covering most of the fridge contents. We knew it was ready to be baked.
We took our baking task very seriously, with timers going off throughout the day, reminding us to fold the bread every hour and other important stages. We wanted to go out in the afternoon, so the dough came with us for the ride, sitting in the back of the car, allowing us to return when the alarm went off and complete the next task!
We drove the 3km into Narooma, and parked down by the town wharf. As we got out of the car we noticed a man gutting and cleaning his fish at a set of sinks down there, and close by, a photographer with a huge telephoto lens. I wondered why the fisherman deserved such photographic attention, and soon realised that he was not the attraction. He was surrounded by wildlife – pelicans, cormorants and even huge stingrays whizzed around the water’s edge, just incredible, accompanied by the star attractions, two wild fur seals playfully chasing around the water and even jumping out on to the water’s edge for selfies with the visitors. Amazing!
We hung out with the seals for a while before continuing on our way around the water’s edge, walking 6km return along the foreshore. We spotted oysters for sale fresh from the farm, so of course had to buy a dozen. Absolutely delicious – definitely up there with some of the best oysters I have ever had, for sure.
We returned to camp via a quick grocery shop and got the sourdough tucked up for its 4 hour proving stage. I got out our curry cookbook and decided to tackle another interesting meal for dinner, this time a Myanmar chicken curry – Kye thar hin – a very tasty recipe. The sourdough finally made it into the oven, and is now cooling ready for breakfast in the morning. Looking and smelling good – hope it tastes good too!
We parked up by a boat ramp and launched into the lake. This waterway is open to the ocean and therefore much clearer than Lake Tabourie, and also tidal. As we set off, the tide was rushing in, giving us a high speed boost on our exploration. There was plenty of birdlife on this lake, with pelicans, cormorants, black swans and also a juvenile White-Bellied Sea-Eagle. Much of the waterway is lined by Meroo National Park, making for some scenic paddling.
We returned to the cars after about 6.5km, yesterday’s purchase of prawns and fresh oysters calling our names. After a fabulous feast, we said our farewells, Mich and Dan heading back to Sydney, and us returning to camp to make some plans for the coming weeks. We did some research made some campsite bookings over a pot of tea, plus booked a boat trip out to an island for Wednesday – definitely lots to look forward to.
We noticed that the tide was low enough to allow us walking access over to Crampton Island, just off the coast, and headed over for an explore, returning as we noticed the first waves beginning to cross the sandbank.
We finished off our day by getting somewhat packed up ready to depart tomorrow, showering and cooking dinner, enjoying that with a glass of wine and our latest Netflix addiction…I wonder what tomorrow will bring?
We were reminded that kayaking is by far the most effective way of getting close to nature. Some of our past experiences are right out of a David Attenborough nature documentary including whales, dolphins, kestrels and eagles, and today was no different. As we rounded the corner out of Lemontree Creek I noticed a huge bird in the tree just metres from us. It took a few seconds to realise it was a massive White-bellied Sea-Eagle, finishing its fishy meal. I tried to capture it on the camera – a challenge on the little waterproof one – this is one moment when I wish I had my telephoto lens!
If you look carefully on the left of the image, you can see the great bird taking flight – just magnificent, with a wingspan of around 2 metres.
We returned to camp via a few groceries, and made a start on packing up ready to move on, before having showers and getting ready for dinner. Mr A called out in delight as he found a family of ducks and ducklings exploring around our kayak – they were the cutest and definitely deserved a photo!
We had decided to book dinner out in Huskisson, originally not realising it was Valentines Day, but then post justifying our dinner decision with that as an excuse! A few friends had mentioned Wild Ginger as a location – a restaurant specialising in South East Asian food, particularly Thai but incorporating a multitude of flavours and influences. The chef had worked at some top Thai restaurants in Sydney, so we had high hopes.
All the food was delicious, the service was a little average – a 45 minute wait between entrees and mains, and staff that carefully avoided eye contact when you tried to reach their attention! Still, we had a lovely evening, and cycled the 2km safely back to camp afterwards along the cycle lanes.
We set off down their lane and turned left, along stunning gum tree lined roads, rolling green hills making up our views. As we began to go uphill, I realised I was being left behind and that my eBike was extremely quiet…I struggled along for a bit, but then had to stop, concluding that the 16.5kg bike was not turned on.
Out came Barb’s incredible food, accompanied by food prepared by her friend Julie, who was considering joining the group. Amazing dish after amazing dish came out – just delicious. We absolutely feasted, Mr A particularly munching on at least one piece of cake, but avoiding the glass of Riesling offered (because of the calories – ha ha!).
We returned for a fabulous salad of fresh produce from Barb and Omar’s garden and sheep cheese for lunch.
We followed the walk around for about 3km, stopping to watch the Little Blowhole perform its show – a loud ‘whomp’ preceding the gush of water as it follows the old lava dyke under the rocks and up through the gap. We got nicely refreshed by the spray!
Not long after here we both had to stop and rest in the shade. Mark’s plantar fasciitis in his heel was causing him pain while walking, and my Morton’s Neuroma was giving me an agonising burning pain in the ball of my right foot too. I guess the cortisone injection I had last week hasn’t made a difference. We are a pair of old crocs! We looked longingly at the gorgeous looking pathway stretching into the distance over the cliff and hobbled back to camp.
As the afternoon progressed we decided to hop on the bikes and ride into Kiama for the farmer’s market. It was busy and bustling, primarily fresh produce from surrounding areas but also some food stalls, a winery and brewery. We tried the wine but it was not to our taste, and neither was the beer. We did find a sheep cheese producer from Robinson – we have tried their cheese before, being one of the few in Australia – and purchased some delicious nectarines from Orange.
We took our goodies and rode back to camp for a healthy salad and a glass of rosé.
Reason: This was our first stop after having crossed the Nullabor, and our first taste of oysters since leaving Sydney back in May. It was spring when we reached Streaky Bay, and the weather was not quite settled. We had some fabulously warm mornings, but the afternoons often whipped up with quite a blustery wind. Nevertheless it was a great location to introduce us back into semi-civilisation, with a 10km coastal cycleway to explore, and some interesting road trips to natural landmarks. Quite a unique location.
Reason: We visited this location purely so I could go cage diving with Great White Sharks (a bucket list item and well worth the trip – I chose the ethical option with Adventure Bay Cruises). We originally booked in at the caravan park there for two nights, but loved it so much we stopped longer. Port Lincoln as a town has some great little restaurants, fabulous seafood and plenty of services. A short drive away is Lincoln National Park, home sea eagles, osprey and fur seals you can snorkel with, and numerous picturesque beaches. A flat cycleway follows the coast around into town and along to the marina (and possibly beyond), great exploring with plenty of birdlife. We really enjoyed our time here.
Reason: Anyone who knows us well (and our love of fine wine) will probably question why this fits as a surprising visit. Well the fact is we almost left on the first night due to the cold damp weather, but we were pleased we stuck around. The rail trail is a great drawcard here, relatively flat and guiding you to some fabulous tastings. The visitor information centre is award winning, and if you are there on a Friday night they do a wine tasting with $5 glasses of wine and $25 bottles and a cheese and nibbles plate – a brilliant way to meet your fellow campers and taste some local fare.
Reason: Of course the wine was fabulous – we had some great fun cycling around the area which is pretty flat with some off road cycleways, and great tastings. Highlights were Artisans of Barossa, Izway and the Taste of Eden. It was also our first opportunity to taste Vietnamese food in a long while at FermentAsian – a restaurant with a veritable bible of wine on offer – more than 1000 bottles. We settled for one!
Reason: Cowra is just an hour from Orange which we have visited on many occasions, but remained a blip on the map for more than 18 years. This time we picked up some literature about it while visiting Forbes, and thought it sounded lovely. As usual we laughed about what the differences were likely to be from the marketing material (often towns read like quaint French villages but disappoint horribly!). Cowra actually exceeds expectations! Surrounded by rolling hills (making the cycling a bit more of an effort than we’d been used to!), lots of interesting history surrounding the Japanese POW camp and some stunning gardens, Cowra also boasts a wine bar with fabulous selection of local beers and wine, and some great places to eat out. We loved the Indian restaurant – we’d put it up there among the best we’ve been to in Australia! The campsite was delightful too, grassy and shady, hosted by a lovely couple who became friends. Definitely worth a visit.
Reason: This was unexpectedly beautiful. It was somewhat of a trek from Carnarvon on the coast, but well worth it. Some great walks, spectacular scenery and the serenity was unparalleled. We enjoyed a fabulous evening around the shared campfire exchanging stories and were awarded with a certificate for completing the escarpment walk! Another few hours’ drive from here is Mount Augusta which we didn’t make, but some of our fellow campers were heading out there for a dinner hosted by a famous chef. Definitely keep an eye out for that one if you’re in that direction – would be a great incentive to do the climb…
Reason: We heard about this location while chatting around yet another campfire and decided to head on over. Aussies among our readership may have heard about this place on Australian Story. It’s run by a young couple who are trying to make a difference to the ecology of the station, recovering damage to the land done in the 1930s. Very few people were camped there – just 4 or 5 caravans alongside the river, and Mr A and I walked for miles without seeing another human being. The history is fascinating, and we can hardly imagine the hardships of the first settlers dealing with 40+ degrees and little to no water or shelter.
Reason: The day after I came out of intensive care, Mr A brought me here to recover. It was the perfect location. Fresh air, walks of any length, peace and quiet. I could read, doze and generally recover while he popped out on his bike to ride parts of the Mundi Biddi cycleway which winds its way though the forests here. Camping cat was very happy also! Another location rich in wildlife, flowers and great scenery – we enjoyed some glorious walks here too. Mr A even did a ride-paddle here.
Reason: We had to include Busselton in this because of a) the great cycleways there – you can go for miles off road along the coast, extremely picturesque and b) our first night there we went for an early evening beverage opposite the jetty and made friends with Anne and Chris, owners of Brash Vineyard. We followed up an invitation to visit them and had an incredible tour and tasting, a highlight of our region’s visit. We camped at Big Valley, a sheep station just outside of Margaret River with rolling hills and a bike ride through the woods through to the village. We did some great tastings while there, and made some more friends we later caught up with in Adelaide. The Saturday morning markets were fabulous (and we saw an old friend from Sydney there!) and we felt that MR would be definitely up there as a place we could live, should we not have Curl Curl as our home! Make sure you stop at Bunbury Farmer’s Market on your way to or from Perth…you’ll see why when you get there….
Reason: Now this does break the rules a little bit as it is on the coast, but the majority of our activity here was inland. We stayed at a great campground on the river mouth, surrounded by rail trail cycleways which we made the most of. We didn’t realise Denmark was a wine region until we got there, and of course joined a tour to explore some of the offerings. We could have definitely spent a lot longer here, especially once we had seen the SupaIGA supermarket – definitely the best we had seen in the whole of Western Australia. Put it on your visit list!
Reason: We headed up here because of numerous recommendations to visit Cape Leveque (the tip of the Dampier Peninsula), but we would say the whole Peninsula is well worth a visit. Pristine beaches, warm waters (we didn’t see any crocs other than on Mr A’s feet) and perfect weather day after day. We stayed at Middle Lagoon, swam in the waters at Lombadina and also camped at Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm. Our only regret was leaving the caravan behind and taking only a tent – you shouldn’t always listen to advice on the road. The Zone would have easily made it up there with some careful driving.
Reason: While this is a popular spot (many south WA residents park up here for the whole winter), once you move about 200 metres away from the campsite you are totally alone. Miles and miles (more than 80!) of pristine beach, hundred of shells, great sunsets. We loved it here. It was also our first real experience of grass in a long while (yes, small delights!) – we had an unpowered campsite (plenty of solar and they provide you with water) and just loved the cycling. We didn’t have Princess Tassie with us at this point, but the campground at Eighty-Mile Beach allows cats but no dogs! Another reason to like it!
Reason: The only reason to visit Exmouth is for its natural wonders, in particular Whale Sharks. We had the most magical experience swimming with two Whale Sharks on our day out. These gentle giants feed on plankton and travel along with their mouths open, slow enough for us to swim alongside them in our masks and snorkels – just incredible. I also did two dives on the Navy Pier there, some of the best diving since Byron Bay. And finally we managed one night in Cape Range National Park – it is otherwise fully booked – fabulous wildlife, snorkelling and paddling. We wished we could have got longer in here.
Reason: Well surely the photos speak for themselves? This was an incredible find – we booked in for two nights and stayed a week. Some people spend months here (though we suspect they don’t do much washing!). We were camped right beside Ningaloo Reef, turtles popping their heads out all along the beaches, whales breaching out beyond the surf break, spectacular powder soft sand and warm waters. We still miss our view now! This is located just south of Coral Bay (which we suggest you avoid like the plague – wall to wall tourist parks, cheek by jowl – yuck!)…
Reason: We had no idea this area was so stunning or we would have camped in here. Instead we visited as a day trip from Denham. It requires a 4WD and tyres to be let down, but the national park provides compressed air at the entrance so you can re-inflate on your way out. We went kayaking in Big Lagoon and drove up to Cape Peron on the very tip. From there we could see a fantastic array of sea life including sharks and mantas swimming past. On the beaches, hundreds of pied cormorants lined up, apparently a sign there were tiger sharks about. The lookout was a long slow drive through sand dunes to reach, but so worth it. The dolphins at Monkey Mia (at the bottom of the cape) had commenced our day, not as twee and touristy as we had feared…definitely worth a look if you’re in the area!
Reason: We just had to sneak this one in because we had such a lovely time here. Kalbarri is within about 6 or 7 hours drive of Perth, so popular with the locals, but remains a sleepy little village. We ate dinner at one of the best restaurants we had found since Sydney (Upstairs), hiked in the national park and kayaked on the stunning waters. We were on a bit of a time limit to get down to Perth at this point, otherwise would have definitely stayed longer and done more paddling on the lower Murchison River. Lots to do and see here.
