Wednesday 28th March: Biking and paddling around Wooli

Author: Mr A

Location: Wooli, NSW

It really is a dreamy sort of place, well when the fishermen are not bombing past our caravan trying to shave seconds of their entry to the water time. Other than that very peaceful. Looking forward to getting off the grid a bit more in a few weeks time when we are up in Queensland.

Tassie decided with the sun shining she was inspired to take some outdoor time, her tunnel providing the necessary hidey hole.We headed out for a paddle this morning, unfortunately just as the wind picked up so it was a pretty short one. We headed across the Wooli Wooli river (so good they named it twice?) right from our caravan, then headed along the opposite shore towards the ocean. Beautiful paperbarks and mangroves lined the edge, twisted into incredible shapes.Massive sand dunes towered over us, framing a beautiful contrast with the blue water. Love these little packrafts to enable us to get out here on the water.

Miss T again decided she would grasp some fresh air, she seems to really like the artificial grass we have on our site, don’t blame her so do we! Looks like grass, feels like carpet, doesn’t need watering or weeding. Her exploration didn’t last long as a flock of noisy minor birds spotted her and descended to squark and dive bomb her – more than enough to send a shy blue Burmese back into hiding!

The afternoon saw us out on the bikes for a quick spin along some of the same trails as yesterday, and they were equally gorgeous. We attempted to ride back along the beach but the incoming tide and soft sand defeated that plan. So it was a quick rest stop at the Wooli Hotel for cold one before retuning to the Zone, just 11km under our belts. A happy hour was spent trying to get our plumbing sorted, with limited success, so we have a pretty measly dribble of water unfortunately. Hoping this will get sorted at Zone when we go for the service in a couple of weeks.

A pre-dinner drink was called for, and I dug deep in the Zone cellar and produced this beauty that we have carried round for a while.

It was given to us by a friend (Steve Shipley) who was moving abroad and having a bit of clear out. This bottle is from the vineyard he lives on in the Hunter. It really demonstrates its 13 year old age in that deep burgundy colour that a classic Hunter Shiraz should show. Also note the Weber all prepped and ready for action – it’s chicken fajitas tonight. The chillis we were given from a farm stay near Eden are absolute rip snorters (technical culinary term) and really fire up the dish…that’s the sunset below, not the result of the spicy dish!

Tuesday 27 March: Wind changes the state of play

Author: Mrs A

Location: Wooli, NSW

Our initial plans of taking the packrafts out on the Wooli Wooli River were thwarted by a brisk breeze and grey skies threatening rain again, so we decided to get out our packs and go walking instead. On our 14km explore yesterday by bike, it had looked as though we might be able to cross the river on foot at low tide, so we headed off down there intending to cross and hike through the Yuragir National Park. Alas, once down there, we could see the water was much too fast flowing and deep for us to cross without a boat.

So, we decided that oysters would help us plan where we might go instead. The local oyster shed had no oysters on display, and we found that the rain had closed the river, the oyster farmers reliant on the Department of Agriculture to test the water and find the quality safe before they could harvest more. Oysters are filterers, meaning that their meat will consist of whatever they sift out of the water – in this case the rain has flooded the marshlands up the river, allowing the likes of E. coli bacteria to enter the stream. So instead, she went out back and returned with some oysters she had purchased from Merimbula, relatives of the the very oysters we had tried a few weeks ago!Our brains fuelled by oyster goodness, we decided to drive into the National Park north of Wooli and see whether there was a walk we could do there.

It was a short drive, but we soon arrived at a sign directing us to a campground. We drove in and ‘voila!’, a sign directing us to the Wilson’s Headland Circuit walk, just a 6km return. Perfect. We set off on what was to become one of the best walks we have ever done. Full of birdlife, fabulous views, plenty of variation in the scenery and vegetation it was great. The national parks authority had provided quality boardwalks and stairways – simply beautiful.There was not another soul on the walk either, something I am certain will change as we hit Easter this coming weekend, and the Queensland school holidays. Orchids, irises and delicate flowers were to be found with careful looking, not always obvious at first glance.We stopped for a plum at a cliff top bench with an incredible view. This would be a fabulous whale watching spot in the winter months.Readers who are still working will then be pleased to know that after all this fun we returned to the mobile apartment where I spent the next 4 hours programming an online research survey, while Mr A relaxed with a good book. Life is all about balance!

It’s such a peaceful and pretty part of the world. There is definitely a true community here in Wooli, though I am not sure you would describe it as truly thriving. It was clear from talking to the lady in the oyster shop that they are very reliant on the influx of visitors during the school holidays, and that the weather plays a big part in its success. She seemed quite anxious that the recent rain would put people off travelling down here, and that the lack of local oysters would put a big dent in her earnings. Her shop advertises that it stocks groceries as well as providing fish and chips seven days a week. The groceries when we entered were pretty scarce – a tin of supermarket brand coconut cream for $2, a few boxes of lasagna pasta for $3 and some loaves of bread.

The campground is extremely quiet – other than us just one or two other caravans and a couple of fishermen in tents – not really bringing in much money to the area given we all self-cater. While this is great for us as visitors, I can see that scraping a living from our meagre spendings would be very hard.

Monday 26 March: Exploring Wooli

Author: Mr A

Location: Wooli, NSW

We said some fond farewells this morning to our fellow Zoners and headed up the coast to the small settlement of Wooli, nestled between the vast coastal stretch of the Yuraygir National Park and Australia’s first marine park, the Solitary Island Marine Reserve.

The 500 or so permanent residents of Wooli live on a narrow isthmus, with the river on one side and ocean on the other. The houses were all impressively well kept, many advertising holiday rentals as the town swells to many thousands in the school holidays.Our caravan park wasn’t anything to rave about, we are about a metre from a road, albeit not a busy one, but once the privacy screens were up it felt a little better. Sadly we then got the news that our friends have had to say goodbye to their cat today. We knew it was coming but still it will be a tough time for them. We have so enjoyed sharing the joy with them that our respective feline fur children have brought us. Happiness is fragile.

So off we went for our usual bike based exploration of our new surrounds. We headed down to the end of the conveniently located cycle path running by our park and there we saw where the river met the ocean. It was magnificent, and we were so grateful for the tip to come here from our friends Rosemary and Richard. We road back through town and out into the national park along a sandy track. The bird life was prolific, a black shouldered kite soared overhead and a noisy friarbird made…well noisy noises.

We rode past an oyster farm shop, sadly closed but we will be back in the morning, in fact I am likely be clawing at the door pretty early – it has been a while.

Unfortunately this evenings’ showers were a dismal affair as our water system seems to be playing up again providing us with very poor pressure…last time we fixed it with a new water filter, but that was only a few weeks ago. I doubt it is that causing the problem. Mrs A’s dinner was a real hit though, zucchini spaghetti with a spicy vegetable sauce. Very few calories and absolutely delicious.

Sunday 25 March: Sunshine brings paddling with Dusty

Author: Mrs A

Location: Moonee Beach

Moonee Creek was our destination this morning, just a few metres down a wooded slope from our caravan. Having left our beautiful fibreglass kayak back in Sydney, we inflated our pack rafts, sacrificing speed for the benefit of not having a 7.3 metre boat on the roof of the car. We were joined by fellow Zoner, Darryl and his boxer Dusty for a paddle. The creek is fairly shallow most of the way up, but Dusty preferred to ride on the front of Darryl’s boat rather than swim or bound alongside, while we were entertained with stories of Darryl’s adventures paddling around Cape York, in the far north of Queensland. Tales of large crocodiles, hammerhead sharks and three hour hikes before dawn to find fresh water reassured us we will probably not be paddling in our inflatable boats up in that part of Australia!

We returned for a BBQ brunch and a chat with our fellow Zoners, learning more about the individual tips and hints they had to share.

The afternoon was too breezy to get the boats out again, so we went for a stroll down to the water from the campground. It’s such a picturesque area, with the campground sitting up above the estuary of Moonee Creek, offering views across the water. It was approaching low tide, so we were able to stroll across most of the creek through its warm waters.From the rocks at the mouth of the estuary you can see right up the coast along Moonee Reserve, the salt spray making the air look misty and atmospheric.This is such a special part of the coast. We wished our family in the UK could be magically transported here – the children would love playing in the sandy shallows, and there is so much to do and see. Some people staying on the site were feeding the lorikeets with honey and bread [below: Scaly-breasted Lorikeets]

We concluded our day with another 6pm drinks o’clock in the camp kitchen with all the Zoners. We all reflected on what a success this weekend has been – some like us are relatively new caravanners, learning as we go, while others are seasoned experts with experience to share. I think we have all learned something from one another, whether it’s a new gadget or modification or finding a new storage space – along with the friendships made, the time here has been absolutely worthwhile.

We’re planning to advertise another date towards the end of April (thinking around 20th-23rd), somewhere north of or inland from Noosa where perhaps some of the Zone team could pop along and join us for an evening or afternoon. We floated the idea with the Zoners here, and there is already some interest and ideas of locations being suggested. If you’re interested in joining us and think you can get there, watch the ‘ Zone Owners – Zoners’ forum on Facebook for more details as plans firm up!Off to pastures new tomorrow, Wooli Beach (as recommended by our good friends Rosemary and Richard in Sydney)…looking forward to finally getting our oysters there!

Saturday 24 March: The “Zone off” reaches a crescendo!

Author: Mr A

Location: Moonee Beach

It was another intermittently wet day, following an evening where a bloke with big bags of marbles was hurling them onto the roof of the caravan all night! The morning Bollywood markets at Woolgoolga we sought were cancelled due to bad weather, so a café breakfast was the substitute. Now guess which meal was mine and which was Mrs A’s?Yes…home made toasted muesli for me. I will be wearing sack cloth and ashes next. We checked out the spectacular scenery and lookout in the bright morning sunshine after breakfast, before heading back to Moonee Beach….As we left camp another Zone was coming in, and finally in the late afternoon the last Zoner checked in, coming straight from the factory at Coolum Beach yesterday. So 14 vans have checked in here – around 10% of the total number on the road. I think it’s interesting that we would all be quite happy to come and spend a weekend with mostly total strangers, just because we brought the same product. We think it’s a lot to do with the Zone Owner’s Facebook group that has allowed us to get a feel for the type of people who are buying them. The posts are positive and collaborative, exchanging tips and ideas, all moderated very professionally, unlike some of the other groups we belong to in the caravan space. In these challenging times for Facebook it’s good to remember that social media can also be used very positively, in this case encouraging on-line relationships to be converted to real world connections.

So an evening was spent very merrily at the local Moonee Beach Tavern, 27 folk I think from many different walks of life, chatting away about their lives and travels, united by a love of the great Australian outdoors. It reminded me of how lucky we are to live in a country that enables us to do something like this. We have spent the afternoon walking on a pristine beach that Catherine and I had to ourselves, and then we spend the evening planning new adventures with a whole bunch of like minded people.

Our walk was special – not only did we see off the last of the rain, but the sun came out, allowing us to walk the 7km without getting anything other than our feet wet and enabling us to enjoy this stunning coastline along Sapphire Beach.We are also thankful that we don’t have to worry that someone with a semi-automatic is going to break into the pub. The worst we had was a young football team rehearsing some testosterone fuelled war cries. We go to bed with full bellies and I think generally happy hearts. Yes a bunch of us have our health issues, our family problems, but compared to so many in the world… life is good here, and long may it continue.

Australia as we know has had a “dream run”, the Lucky Country. Our challenge will be as America withdraws from Asia – how will we respond to the rise of Chinese soft and hard power? Will our politicians be up for the new challenge that represents for Australia? I hope they find the courage to look beyond their short term personal ambition to provide the leadership we will undoubtedly need to navigate the changes this will bring culturally and economically.

If you fancy a sobering read then check out respected academic Hugh White’s essay “Without America” (https://www.quarterlyessay.com.au/essay/2017/11/without-america)…this gives some clues as to our potential future landscape…

Friday 23 March: Exploring around Coffs

Author: Mrs A

Location: Moonee Beach

The sound of thousands of ball bearings being thrown on the roof of our mobile apartment was what greeted us this morning, with heavy rain showers blowing in from the ocean. Adventurous plans of going hiking in the rainforest were abandoned in favour of cake baking and morning tea with our fellow Zoners, also dodging the inclement weather. As the morning wore on, more Zone RVs arrived taking us up to 11 vans, making the caravan park look like a muddy rainforest version of a Zone showroom, should such a thing exist!A fun morning tea was had with lots of laughs and discussion with our fellow Zoners.

Eventually there was a break in the cloud, so Mr A and I decided to head into Coffs Harbour to find some long awaited oysters from the Fisherman’s Co-Op…as we entered though we were enticed by the smell of freshly cooked Blue Grenadier and chips, and so were swayed into having a naughty lunch instead. Oysters will wait until tomorrow!We have such good memories of our last visit to Coffs Harbour, the beautiful sights and plenty of walking, paddling and cycling opportunities. Its a beautiful part of New South Wales.

After filling ourself we decided we ought to get out and do a walk, and drove up into the hills behind Coffs to Ulidarra National Park. There we managed a short 3km return hike to the Korora Lookout which rewarded us with views across the region and to the north – a rainforest walk with beautiful natural sculptures telling an Aboriginal story.From there we drove to the Forest Sky Pier, a jetty which stretches out over the rainforest allowing a view across Coffs and to the south. The views were magnificent, probably moreso because of the dramatic skies with billowing clouds, showers and rainbows out over the ocean.We returned to the campground via the Moonee Tavern, confirming our group booking for dinner tomorrow night and booking the courtesy bus to ferry us down there. Before long 6 o’clock drinks were calling us, and we all reunited in the camp kitchen for stories of travels and tips for future adventures.

The rain settled in again for the evening, drowning out any chance of conversation or entertainment via the television. It’s forecast to be similar weather tomorrow, hopefully with the odd break allowing us to enjoy the Bollywood Market along the coast…yes, Bollywood….sounds intriguing – who are we to consider not attending that spectacle! Watch this space for news of tomorrow’s adventures!

Thursday 22 March: It’s a Zone Off!

Author: Mr A

Location: Moonee Beach Caravan Park

Months ago we sent out an invite via Facebook to fellow owners of Zone caravans like ours (Zoners we call ourselves) to join us camping just north of Coffs at the beautiful Moonee Beach Caravan Park. Well, the regular bouts of pouring rain did nothing to dampen down the enthusiasm with which we were greeted by several Zoners already there when we arrived! We quickly got parked up and started getting to know them, helped along with drinks in one of the best camp kitchens we’ve seen, with a fabulous view over the beach.Our catch up was made possible by the hard work of fellow Zoner Ash Cook, who set up and administers a Facebook group so Zone owners, and those considering buying, can exchange stories of their travels and experiences with the caravans. It’s been a fantastic resource for us all.

Already we feel we have made some new friends from around Australia, with several couples here already having traveled down from Brisbane, another couple coming up from Lake Macquarie, and one van from WA on its way back! What a rich source of ideas about how to get the best out of the Zone, hidden gems of camping spots, and the odd essential kitchen gadget! It was a great evening, and looking forward to even more Zones heading in for the meet over the weekend.

We did take time out before drinks to do our usual explore around on the bikes, heading up along the Solitary Islands walking track, no surprise what the view was of. I love Australia’s naming conventions and how they keep you guessing! It was a fabulous view, massive rollers coming in after the recent wild weather and pounding the coast. Looking forward to exploring a bit further afield tomorrow.

Tuesday 20 March: Edging up the NSW coast

Author: Mrs A

Location: Port Macquarie, NSW

It was just a 90 minute drive from Bulahdelah up to Port Macquarie, so we were pulling into our campsite by lunchtime. We’d decided to head for a caravan park because the washing mountain was building up, plus there are a few days of wet weather forecast.

We were last in Port about 5 years ago, that time in our Ultimate camper trailer with the kayak and two eBikes. As we drove into town, familiar sights gradually reminded us of our last visit and the Hastings River oysters we had enjoyed. Ah yes, the oysters! Sadly none found today – something to save for tomorrow!

After a couple of loads of washing were done (remember our washing machine only takes 2kg!) and lunch consumed, we jumped on the mountain bikes for an explore. We are parked about 20 metres from part of the Macquarie coastline shared pathway, and so followed our noses for a while, eventually arriving at the Settlement Point river ferry. Checking Google Maps I could see we could cross the river and continue our cycle on the other side, potentially crossing back over via another ferry. Mark checked with a nearby local who confirmed the other ferry was indeed running, and off we went.The other side of the river was much quieter, with hardly a car on the road. We passed more oyster farms and beautiful white gum trees, before reaching the next ferry about 6km later.While the afternoon was bright and sunny, we noticed that the sky to the west was looking very dark. A quick look at the weather forecast listed a whole load of warnings, including for severe thunder storms, large hail and strong winds…we whizzed back to the campground to make sure windows were closed and the awning was secured. Of course, no inclement weather eventuated, just a hot cloudy humid evening. Still it was a good 18km ride, and got the blood moving after a few days of not much activity.

I’m actually hoping we get some rain tomorrow. Our lovely friends Donna and Andy (expert sourdough chefs) will be pleased to learn we are intending to try baking another loaf. Everything is prepared, and kneading hands are at the ready…wish us luck!

Monday 19 March: Feeling very lucky!

Author: Mr A

Location: Bulahdelah, NSW

Lucky in so many ways…that we went to such an awesome wedding yesterday and shared in the happiness of our friends getting hitched. Lucky also that we have headed off today for our next big trip, 6 months of caravanning around this beautiful country, initially heading up the east coast. Also a lot luckier than the folk in Tathra, on the NSW south coast, who have just lost their homes and caravans in the terrible bushfire. We were camped in the caravan park ourselves a few weeks ago. Really terrible destruction down there, it’s hard to imagine how devastating it is for these families to lose everything. Also lucky that after having my eyes checked this morning all is still well and the stent (fitted a few years ago) is still working properly to reduce pressure and save further deterioration in my vision.

This is my first post for a while, it has been a tough few weeks and I haven’t really felt like writing, so today decided to reflect on a great weekend, and count our blessings.

So feeling a little dusty after the weekend’s celebrations, and root canal treatment this morning, we collected our caravan from its parking spot outside our local bowlo, and pointed the Cruiser north. We had originally thought we would only make it to Wisemans Ferry today, but after a quick getaway decided to push on up up the freeway to Bulahdelah, a small RV friendly settlement now bypassed but looks still to be thriving, with the first donation camp beside the river being full. We carried on to the edge of town and found a nice $18 site on the showground, maintained by volunteers from the Lions Club. Plenty of room, nice grassy spots, toilets and water. Starting to feel a little excitement now that we have months stretching in front of us of the travelling life.The plan is as follows; head up the east coast of NSW this week, through the rain by the sound of it, then meeting up next weekend with some fellow Zoners just north of Coffs Harbour. Then making a friend’s property in western Brisbane home for Easter, then more friends in Noosa for the following week. After that we actually haven’t decided more than “keep the ocean on our right”, we tend to only book about 3/4 weeks ahead. Most likely we will go up into the Northern Territory before heading down the centre to be back in Sydney mid September.

We are again travelling with our “adventure cat” Tassie, who seemed quite excited when we pulled up today and there is a new view for her. However, we have left behind our big double kayak, after using it for the last weeks down the south coast. It’s just not practical to travel off road with the 7.3 metre kayak balanced on the top of our roof racks. Instead we have put the little inflateable boats back in the car.What else are we doing differently on this trip? Well we returned to to our pre-travel regime of fasting two days a week. Cutting out pies and snacks, and getting back to our fighting weights. It was a fasting day today, so tempting as it was being a little hungover to pile some fatty stuff in on the road, we resisited, and the first food since the wedding dinner last night is one of Catherine’s amazing veggie Pad Thais. Just delicious! It’s hard not to treat every day like a “holiday feast”, but when you’re travelling long term thats a recipe for getting over our recommended weight, as we did last year.

So here we go, we’re on the road again!

Friday-Monday 9-12 March: Ulladulla to Sydney

Author: Mrs A

Location: Ulladulla, Berry and Sydney

Friday was a big driving day as we left Merimbula and began heading north back to Sydney. Our destination for the night was Ulladulla, and the four hour drive felt like eight as Miss Tassie fidgeted and mewed for treats the whole way. As soon as we were unhitched on our bushy headland site we decided to explore, leaving Tassie to catch up on her 22 hours sleep!There was a lot of birdlife around our camp, with yellow robins, honeyeaters, fairy wrens, black cockatoos, wattle birds all flitting around. We climbed down to the beach and discovered pelicans, white bellied sea eagles and pied cormorants – a veritable sanctuary of feathered creatures.Our stay was brief, however, and the following morning we headed back on our way.

The next stop was back in Berry with our friends Barb and Omar. We parked up at the top of their property, treated to fantastic views over the district.That evening we enjoyed a delicious night out at the local Thai restaurant where other friends Alan and Jo joined us, entertaining us with stories of their goats and life on the farm.

Sunday morning we said farewell again and set off up the highway back to Sydney. We unhitched at Narabeen Lakeside caravan park (just a 20 minute drive from our home, should it not be rented). It feels quite strange to be so close to where we have lived for 14 years and yet be on fairly unfamiliar territory. Unfortunately they do not allow any pets on site, so we then drove Tassie to Hornsby to stay with her fur grandparents, Rosemary and Richard. She spent a few months with them last year, so it was lovely to see her settle comfortably in with them immediately – first jumping onto Richard’s lap for cuddles, then snuggling onto a cushion beside Rosemary. A busy day for all of us.

Today, Monday, I will not dwell on, but it was a very emotional day. We farewelled our friend Tim in a beautiful service at St Joseph’s College in Hunters Hill, followed by food and drinks at the Woolwich Wharf Hotel. There were many tears shed, some laughs, and plenty of beautiful memories shared. We caught a taxi home, physically and emotionally drained for a quiet evening. I took a sunset walk up to the Narabeen Headland to clear my head, and to remind myself how fortunate we are to be amongst such beauty, with so much to live for.A lovely quote caught my eye on a bench at one of the lookouts, an apt thought to end the day on:

Goodbyes are only for those who love with their eyes. Because for those who love with their hearts and souls there is no such thing as separation. – Rumi