Author: Mrs A
Location: Wongaling Beach, Mission Beach and Tully River
Friday brought us the beginning of June and with it the first day of winter. With daytime temperatures in the mid 20s (centigrade) and nights dropping into the mid teens, this is our kind of season!
A strong southerly wind had picked up during the night, making the Coral Sea quite choppy. We were not too surprised then, when we received a call to say our three island boat trip had been cancelled. I didn’t much fancy a three hour journey with a bucket on my lap anyway.
So we decided a walk would be in order. We drove up the coast to Clump Mountain National Park to hike up to another lookout. Signs at the bottom warned of a need for adequate fitness to do the walk, but it turned out to be much less steep than yesterday’s effort on Dunk Island.
More signs as we started the walk warned us of the dangers of the stinging trees, with ‘heart shaped leaves’ (don’t they all more or less?) and fruit that looks like raspberries. Touching these leaves will release lots of tiny hairs which will lodge in your skin and potentially airway and lungs, causing incredible pain for several months, potentially years. Ugh. No off piste walking then – in fact we were careful not to touch anything on our walk up the hill.
As we climbed up there were lovely glimpses of sea views, leading to inland vistas as we wound our way around. The walk was a fraction of the steepness of yesterday’s hike on Dunk Island, but still rich in wildlife, predominantly skinks and butterflies.
A beautiful view south towards Hinchinbrook Island was our reward on reaching the top, which we enjoyed along with a pair of sea eagles which glided before us. We’re just loving the richness of this tropical environment.
Saturday morning dawned fresh – just 14 degrees in our caravan, and a good opportunity to try out our newly repaired diesel heater. After a couple of tries it got started and worked a treat, making us nice and toasty as we got up to face the day.
We did a little food shopping before an early lunch and getting ourselves ready to head to the Tully River. We were excited to be going white water kayaking using sports rafts – inflatable kayaks, suitable for one or two people, not too dissimilar to our pack rafts, but a lot heavier (about 16kg when dry) and a lot hardier.
We were picked up by John, one of our tour guides from Wildside Adventures, and driven the hour up to a parking area alongside the Tully River. There, we unloaded the boats and carried them down to the river to launch.
While we both have done quite a bit of paddling on flat water and the sea, white water paddling is a completely different kettle of fish. To start with, there are always rocks, and these are just centimetres below the water’s surface. Secondly, the water is heading downhill, so continues moving regardless of the obstacles in its place.
We did a little practice play in the first pool, realising how heavy the boats are to manoeuvre, and the heavy aluminium and plastic paddles are to lift – not quite like my carbon fibre paddle! Then it was off down the first couple of easy rapids. They were quite exciting, with a lot of white water splashing – these are grade 3 rapids
Class 1: Very small rough areas, might require slight maneuvering. (Skill level: Very basic)
Class 2: Some rough water, maybe some rocks, might require some maneuvering. (Skill level: Basic paddling skill)
Class 3: Small waves, maybe a small drop, but no considerable danger. May require significant maneuvering. (Skill level: Some experience in rafting)
Class 4: Whitewater, medium waves, maybe rocks, maybe a considerable drop, sharp maneuvers may be needed.(Skill level: Exceptional rafting experience)
Class 5: Whitewater, large waves, large volume, possibility of large rocks and hazards, possibility of a large drop, requires precise maneuvering. (Skill level: Full mastery of rafting)
Class 6: Class 6 rapids are considered to be so dangerous that they are effectively unnavigable on a reliably safe basis…a dramatically increased likelihood of ending in serious injury or death compared to lesser classes. (Skill level: Full mastery of rafting, and even then it may not be safe)
As I sailed down backwards on the second rapid I notice Mr A perched high, stuck on a rock – it was hard to right myself as it was a challenge to see through the tears of laughter!
Onwards we went until we reached a particularly serious rapid. There were only three of us novices on the trip, with two guides, and at this location both guides went ahead to be ready to rescue, should we need it. I was waved down and off I went. You are at the mercy of the river to a great extent, paddling as hard as you can to guide your vessel between the rocks and away from any hazards.
In particular we had been warned about a big rock here called ‘Tombstone’. Apparently it has a huge ‘hole’ behind it, a bit of a whirlpool, that sucks you in if you are not careful. I managed to avoid it and although I got quite a bit of water in my boat, emerged unscathed. Mr A was less fortunate.
Footage from his GoPro shows what went wrong, as he headed right instead of left behind Tombstone and got sucked right on in. To him, it felt like he was under water for a long while, but we timed it at around 20 seconds. Still quite frightening when its happening.
Other than a purple fingernail, and a few minor bruises (including a black and blue ego) there was no bad outcome from this one, and he was soon back in his boat continuing the trip.
Just to make Mr A feel better, I managed to come out on the next rapid, a similar story with lack of experience meaning I paddled the wrong way and was tipped under water. The same thing happened on the very next rapid too, allowing Mr A to feel very smug that I had come out twice!
Despite the unplanned swims, we continued smiling, and would definitely do it again!The trip concluded after about 6km of river, and just before the saltwater crocodile infested waters commenced, thankfully!
We were dropped off at the caravan park, and we hurried off for hot showers to warm up.
We then headed out to dinner again at Nana Thai Restaurant, just across the road. We took along our own wine and glasses, and enjoyed a spectacular massaman beef and a spicy pad Thai. We slept well!
We lost no time in jumping on the bikes and heading off for a 22km explore. We had seen a multi-use track marked through the Djiru National Park, so we rode out of town to find that. We had high hopes of spotting a cassowary, but they were not to be seen today.
Was that anything to do with my “Crusher” as we call it, charging through the woods with all the stealth of an elephant stampede?
We were excited today to be heading out to Dunk Island, which sits just offshore from Mission Beach. What the booking agent had forgot to mention was that we would be wading out waist deep though the beach break to board our water taxi. No jetty in sight. A little wet, we settled for the ten minute transfer out there. For $40 return a head it seemed OK value for this part of the world (I can hear my friends in Asia giggling) and we were soon unloaded into another world.
We skipped past this testament to the fragility of investments in this part of the world and hiked up to a lookout on the peak of Mount Kootaloo, and when I say up I mean…straight up.
Forty-five minutes of pretty sticky walking brought us this incredible view across the Family Group of Islands.
Quickly we were joined by 5 backpackers who had come over with us on the water taxi, and finally caught up with the Agile Andersons, we headed back down for a picnic lunch on a deserted beach. Well, until the backpackers turned up again…they really are keeping this economy afloat up here.
We had a very bumpy ride back to our pick up point and even wetter on the way back into the beach, but who cares when the water is 27 degrees and not a croc in sight..and let me tell you I was looking hard.
Little Crystal Creek was our first destination, up a hair raisingly steep and windy road. It was worth the drive, with nothing little about the falls there, a spectacular series of cascades. We could imagine it would be a great place for a dip on a hot steamy day.
There is something so peaceful about being amongst all this greenery and water, the rainforest trees and foliage almost reflecting the movement of the water in its flowing vines, trunks and roots.
Tuesday morning began with fresh bread. I’d made the dough last night and after it had risen, kept it in the fridge ready to bake this morning. It came out nice and crusty and went well with the BBQ’d breakfast Mr A served up.
We had the whole campground to ourselves, which pleased Miss Tassie in particular who has been able to roam freely without fear of cars or dogs while we have been here.
Our final destination on our hike was Witt’s Lookout, the best by far, with a magnificent outlook over Halifax Bay and the Palm Islands.
Again, the rainforest environment was a big part of the drawcard, the fresh air (about 5 degrees colder up at the top than down on the plains), the lovely smells, the sounds of the birds calling in the canopy.
This area is home to one of the rarest of all birds, the endangered Cassowary, but sadly we didn’t see one. Hopefully we will have more luck at our next destination, Mission Beach.
New neighbours arrived this evening, and we were excited to see that they too are travelling with a cat. It’s such a shame that Tassie and Mau-Mau can’t have a chat in cat language and exchange stories about being felines on the road!
While organising the bikes at the shop the assistant pointed out a koala wandering along a neighbouring tree, a great start to the day!
We headed off from Nelly Bay to find breakfast. We had been recommended a place in Arcadia called the Bikini Tree, and settled ourselves in. A salmon stack for madam and a baked egg dish for me, both cooked just right.
Fortified we tackled some more big hills, which on an e-bike means just changing down gears and letting the 250 watt motor help you up. It’s great to see this form of transport really catching on globally, and for a hilly place like this they are ideal.
Interestingly, when we posted our trip visit on Facebook a friend commented that her great, great, grandmother was the first white woman to set foot on the island. There is evidence of aboriginal occupation since the last Ice Age, when this would have been just another group of hills joined to the mainland before sea levels rose.
A refreshing dip concluded the afternoon and all too soon it was time to head back to the mainland, tucking away some great memories of this little corner of Australia.
We were camped on the showground in town, surprisingly busy considering it is a dry dusty field, with some freshly painted, but fairly tired amenities provided. Apparently it is sugar harvest time, so many travelling farm workers have arrived to help with that.
The end of next week will see a huge harvest celebration, culminating with the burning of the sugar stubble.
We crossed a bridge and rode back on the other side, making a great 13km circuit.
Friends we had made in Moonee Beach back in March, fellow Zoners Cathy and Gawain Bowman are also camping here, so we snuck over to their Zone with a glass of red wine each (it’s meant to be a dry campground) to catch up on their news. They’re in Townsville to care for their son who is recovering from some major back surgery, and it was great to see them.
We found our way into town, collected a final parcel from the post office, and investigated The Strand, the road alongside the waterfront, facing out towards Magnetic Island, just 8km out to sea.
We didn’t see another cyclist on the bike path, and after lunch in town rode back, completing a good 32km ride. Many birds were spotted along our ride, including Blue Winged Kookaburras (they have a different laugh to the usual ones!), many Rainbow Bee-eaters, Egrets, Dusky Moorhens…the list is endless. Apparently the river is home to freshwater crocodiles too, but we didn’t see any.
A delicious curry from a local (very seedy looking) Indian takeaway concluded our day – we’re pleased the food was better than the ambience in the empty restaurant! Tomorrow we head offshore, out to Magnetic Island.
Wandering down the nearest little road we came out on this view. Almost every direction from Bowen there is an island view across crystal clear waters.
We jumped off the tarmac and enjoyed a short ride though the bush, until Catherine felt her tyre go flat! She’d picked up a bunch of thorns, so it was off to the local bike shop, which doubled as a purveyor of power tools! The dedicated bike shop that was here has now closed down, sadly an all too familiar story around Australia.
We had some stuff to collect from the local Post Office, and as usual it had arrived safe and sound. Using this system of sending our various care packages to a Post Office on route has been brilliant. They will hold it for up to a month free of charge, as long as Australia Post is the courier and not a third party.
Then I read the local tourist guide to Bowen that we had picked up at the information centre. Let me quote verbatim from the page describing Bowen’s Top 10 food experiences.
These brochures do nothing but seed expectations that are never delivered on when confronted with the reality of eating out and trying to buy fresh produce in rural Australia, with the odd exception that we always find so refreshing, because it is so unusual.
Bowen’s riches predominantly lie in its spectacular scenery and views, which we enjoyed on a 5km hike along the Cape Edgecumbe Walking Track.
As the morning warmed up and the sun reached through the trees, flowers began to open, with the native hibiscus looking fabulous. The forest was rich with flowers, fruit and seeds, as well as evidence from Tropical Cyclone Debbie which hit the area last year, causing devastation to much of Airlie Beach and its surrounds. Some businesses have still not recovered.
At the peak of Mount Rooper we were rewarded with a fabulous views across the Whitsunday Passage, looking out across all the islands, with Hayman Island, Hamilton Island, Daydream, North and South Molle Islands all clearly seen.
We continued the walk around to Swamp Bay, a tree lined beach covered in coral and shells, looking out to the islands.
We spotted many skinks, a little frog and our first snake of this trip – a young brown snake – probably only 40cm long and not much thicker than a pencil, but still carrying enough venom to cause some serious issues. Thankfully it was not on the offensive and slithered off through the leaves on its way.
Its our last day in Airlie Beach, so after an afternoon of shopping, cleaning and a customary exploration for Miss Tassie, adventure cat extraordinaire, we showered and jumped on our bikes. We rode back to Sorrento’s Bar beside Abell Point Marina for sundowners, enjoying a fabulous sunset over a glass of wine (beer & and a JD for Mr A) before cycling back to make dinner. A fine ending to our visit here.
As you reach town, there is a beautiful lagoon with a combination of deep swimming lanes and shallow areas for children, all free for anyone to use. We continued our cycle along the coastline as far as Boat Haven, imagining the lives of people who owned the spectacular boats moored there.
We enjoyed a Vietnamese salad for lunch, and a beer on the way back was called for, well it is Friday.
We had a bit of a false start with dinner – missing having Uber operating in the area and instead spending 45 minutes trying to get a cab. Then we arrived at the restaurant rated number 3 on TripAdvisor and walked in to be shown a scruffy, sticky table and handed a drinks menu with a choice of two red wines on it – both dreadful. So we provided some feedback and left! A bit of walk and we ended up in a lovely family run Italian. Nothing was too much trouble in catering for Catherine’s dairy allergy, even though the word “Creamy” was used 9 times on the menu. No wonder this country is suffering an obesity crisis! 
A lady considering buying some turmeric watched us buy some so picked our brains about how to use it. She recommended this very odd looking fruit she had brought and said we must try it – in fact she brought us the last one for the princely sum of $3. What a sweetie. Its called a monstera deliciosa and in fact comes from a cheese plant that is often seen as a house plant in the UK. 
Bizarre…tastes very sweet – a combination of banana and pineapple…I think I will be having the lion’s share of this one.
In the afternoon we headed out to Conway National Park for a short walk to Coral Beach overlooking the Molle Islands. Every direction you look is another amazing view, which changes so quickly in this changeable autumnal weather. We even caught ourselves a rainbow. 
What a beautiful pathway. The light was incredible late in the day, the sun now setting around 5.35pm, so casting fabulous shadows and a golden aura over everything.
We struggled to find anything we recognised from 16 years ago, it seems there has been quite a bit of investment in hotels and infrastructure here, and it all looks quite unfamiliar, but in a good way.
So eating done we decided the rain had cleared enough to go out for a hike along the beach and then up to the headland to a stunning lookout over Ball Bay, Halliday Bay and around to the next suburb of Seaforth.
