When the Cat's Away...

November 9, 2017January 22, 2023

Day 163: 9 November – Great White Shark Cage Diving in the Neptune Islands

Author: Mrs A

Location: Port Lincoln & the North Neptune Islands

Distance: 60km as the crow flies – about 2.5 hours by boat

The day began early with a 5.45am alarm. Of course it had begun multiple times throughout the night, as is often the case when you’re excited and don’t want to miss waking up in time! Today Mr A and I went separate ways for the day as I was ticking off a bucket list item – cage diving with Great White Sharks.

A bus collected me from the campground at 6.15am and took me to the harbour where I met my fellow divers. We were provided with tea, juice and breakfast before boarding the Shark Warrier at 7am and heading off on our adventure.

Our wildlife spotting began early, as we were invited up on deck to see a pair of ospreys nesting on a barge in the harbour. This barge cannot be used now until the chicks have flown:

From here, it was a 2.5 hour journey out to the Neptune Islands – a group of islands at the entrance to the Spencer Gulf…

We were soon joined by dolphins which abandoned their fishing to ride the bow wave of our boat

A couple of hours later, we arrived at the islands, and selected a spot beside one where we could see plenty of fur seals (shark food) and also see some Great Whites on the radar, settled on the sea bed. The cage was lowered into the water, and we got changed in to our 7mm wetsuits, hoods, boots and gloves in anticipation of the 16 degrees centigrade water.

The company I had chosen to dive with was Adventure Bay Charters. Unlike their competition, they do not entice the sharks with blood and fish berley (chopped up fish), rather they use vibrations from music and the slapping of ropes and rattles to mimic the sound of a distressed animal, piquing the shark’s curiosity. This has the result of keeping the interaction more natural, and doesn’t send the sharks into a frenzy – associating humans with food.

We jumped in to the water…16 degrees is rather fresh (much like the English Channel I am guessing!), and given you are moving very little in the cage, you can only last in there for about 20 minutes before you begin to feel numb. On my first dive, I saw lots of silver trevally fish, but unfortunately no sharks. We could still see the sharks on the radar, but clearly they had already filled up on a seal pup and were not feeling peckish.

Our skipper continued working hard to try and entice them over, but to no avail. We settled down for a delicious lunch and the boat was moved over to another island to try again.

The afternoon warmed up and it got quite steamy in the wetsuit. I decided to go in for another dive in anticipation of success. Just as I was climbing into the cage, the cry went out – ‘shark!’. Usually this means get out of the water, but I sped up and climbed on in. And there he was. A three metre male, many nicks and scars, gracefully cruising around the cage, wondering how he could reach the tasty looking morsels inside. He was soon joined by a female. Incredible. Swimming along with their mouth open teeth always ready to chomp, they do look strangely serene and peaceful. You half forget they have the power to tear off a limb and end a life in seconds.

This shark is checking out one of the rattles, attracted by the splashing

What a rush, seeing this beauty approaching

Imagine the adrenaline at seeing this magnificent creature coming towards you

I lost track of how long I was under water this time, but was ready for a hot shower by the time I climbed back out on to the boat. What a fantastic view of some incredible creatures. Apparently they have very poor eyesight and their only way of testing their food is with their teeth. They don’t actually eat humans once they have attacked. We are much too bony. They far prefer the fat and blubber of a seal.

Unlike in the movies, this is what a great white looks like cruising past a boat – just a dark huge shadow, no fin

Research has shown that the majority of taste-tests on humans have occurred when the light is weak – when it is overcast, at dawn and dusk. Few happen when the sun is bright and the water clear. So don’t go in the water at the high risk times, I say!

Once dry, everything was packed up and we set off on our way back to Port Lincoln, with a few diversions on the way. First of all, to Memory Bay in the Lincoln National Park where we called in on a New Zealand fur seal colony, their fur blending in nicely with the granite rock:

From there we continued around the coast, spotting a white breasted sea eagle nest and another osprey nest, both with chicks in.

We were joined by more bottlenosed dolphins as we headed back to the harbour – finishing off an amazing day out.

It’s very hard to take photos of dolphins – a bit like photographing lightning or fireworks!

The bus dropped me off at around 8pm – the end of a long but incredible day – Definitely worth doing if you are out this way.

Mr A had kindly prepared dinner for me too after his day of exploring the Port Lincoln area on bike. It doesn’t get much better than this! Awesome!

November 8, 2017

Day 161: 7 November – Locks Well Beach and its natural treasures

Author: Mrs A

From: Streaky Bay

To: Locks Well, just south of Elliston, Eyre Peninsular

Distance driven: 145 km. Distance walked: 3km. Flights climbed: 30 floors

We farewelled Streaky Bay and continued our exploration of the west coast of the Eyre Peninsular. The drive south took us through fields of corn and abandoned cotton farming villages, the scenery stark yet beautiful. Our destination for today was Locks Well, basically a beach and a free camp above it. We pulled in, wowed at the stunning view across the wild southern ocean, a pathway down the cliffs literally starting at our front door.

After lunch we decided we ought to get out and see the beach, a 1.5km walk down the cliff below us. We followed the path down which eventually led to a lookout and a staircase of 250 steps down to the sand below. I felt very grateful I could breathe as we hiked down.

The beach was only short (a half a kilometer at most), but the scenery breathtakingly beautiful. Strolling along the warm sand, sheltered from the wind (of course it was still breezy here!), we spotted a flock of crested terns resting on the waters edge, and a pair of Australian Kestrels swooping in and out of their nest, a hole in the cliff walls, where we could see three Kestrel chicks looking out at us with curious eyes. A fantastic afternoon was whiled away watching the beautiful birds as they worked hard to feed their family, disappearing over the coastal scrubland and returning with mice, crickets, lizards and snakes to feed their hungry brood.

We eventually tore ourselves away and climbed back up to the mobile apartment for hot showers and to cook dinner – tonight a Beef Rendang curry accompanied by a Plantagenet Pinot Noir – one of our purchases from Mount Barker in WA. Delicious. The evening was topped off by a fine view of the sunset and an incredible clear starlit night unspoilt by any man-made light.

Chatting to friends on the phone this evening we felt a whole world away from Sydney. Today everyone is celebrating the Melbourne Cup, as we too would have done for the past 18+ years. No sweepstake here, no bets on random horses, no bubbles and fancy clothes…we have no idea which horses ran let alone which ones achieved a place or won! I wonder where we will be this time next year?

November 5, 2017January 22, 2023

Day 159: 5 November – …Or as the locals call it ‘Blowvember’!

Author: Mrs A

Location: Streaky Bay

Distance walked: 4km

Distance cycled: 7km

We finished our final veal, cranberry and chestnut sausages from the Margaret River region, served with eggs in a herb focaccia. Not too bad for Sunday morning breakfast, cooked up by chef Mr A on the Baby Q – delicious!

After breakfast we jumped in the car for a tour of the nearby Cape Bauer – an uninhabited headland jutting out in to the Southern Ocean. We’d heard it was an important breeding ground for the Southern Osprey, White Breasted Sea Eagle and Peregrine Falcon, so were keen to try and spot those.

The wind was strong and chilly off the ocean, but we were rewarded with fabulous views of the rugged coastline. Apparently this area is frequented by endangered sea lions as well, but we couldn’t spot any from the lookouts.

We did see a kestrel however, as it managed to maintain a hover over the sand dunes before diving down to catch its breakfast. How it managed to stay so stationary in the strong wind, I will never know, but they are incredibly skilled.

The photo below shows a sea stack – right on top of this (seen through binoculars) was a White Breasted Sea Eagle nesting – the female sitting on her nest, the male nowhere to be seen. We failed to see any Pereguine Falcons but two out of three isn’t too bad.

We returned to Streaky Bay via a car wash (shining again now!) and woke Tassie up for an explore.

The tide goes out a very long way here – she was not impressed by all the space

Much happier among the shadows and a bit of tree climbing

As the afternoon passed we decided we ought to do a little more exploring ourselves, so jumped on our bikes. By now the wind had reached strong levels at Streaky Bay as well, so it was a little challenging at times to cycle in a straight line. We checked out the jetty as we had heard there were often dolphins fishing around there in the afternoon. Not today though – hold on to your hats!

This is what those fat tyres are made for!

Our Sunday concluded with the cooking of one of Mr A’s old favourites – Shepherd’s Pie, accompanied by the best part of a delicious Brash Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon.

Watching the sun set as the water comes back in to shore

November 4, 2017January 22, 2023

Day 158: 4 November – A taste of Streaky Bay

Author: Mr A

From: Penong

To: Streaky Bay

Distance driven: 184 km

Distance cycled: 12 km

We left Penong and headed down the Eyre Highway, a road we were dying to see the back of, and were soon pulling up at the quarantine checkpoint for our fruit and veg to be inspected. We only lost a few items to the big veggie bin and were soon on our way to our next destination – the Eyre Peninsula and its regional centre Streaky Bay.

We had booked ahead for a waterfront site, paying a few extra dollars for the privilege. After some tight manoeuvres we were settled in with a bay side view. Unfortunately we were sharing that view with thousands of flies, our first taste (literally) this trip of the little buggers which want to crawl into every facial orifice. Ah bless Australia.

A quick trip into town (a row of 5 outlets) bagged us the last half dozen Streaky Bay oysters remaining in the fish shop. Six is better than none! We have had an oyster drought since leaving Sydney, refusing to pay the crazy WA prices ($36 a dozen seemed to be the norm!).

Back at camp we set off for a bike ride along the foreshore, a lovely ride, apart from the flies which sadly took the shine off. We headed back into a strong headwind and I thought ‘Option A – flies – Option B wind (but no flies) – I’ll take the wind’. At least they weren’t the biting March flies from a couple of days ago!

With the wind at your back there is little need for pedaling!

Back at camp, Tassie was strongly encouraged to leave the caravan and take some air. Not sure she will become a beach bunny – she didn’t waste much time leading Mrs A back up the beach and up the steps into the mobile apartment! At least she knows where home is.

It was time to break the self imposed ‘Nullabor Drought’ and have our first glass of wine for a week, a lovely Clare Valley Riesling to show off the oysters. Superb

After dinner we took a stroll along the beach and watched a full moon rise up over the water. The ‘staircase to heaven’ phenomena, as they call it in over-hyped Broome. This was way better as we were the only ones on the beach.

Can you see the stairs? Or just the refection from a huge orange moon?

November 3, 2017January 22, 2023

Day 157: 3 November – Into our fourth state of the trip

Author: Mrs A

From: Mundrabilla, Western Australia

To: Penong, South Australia

Distance driven: 485 km

It was an early departure this morning, the wind continuing to whistle and the skies grey overhead. The road didn’t change though – long and straight, stretching into the distance. It wasn’t too far after Eucla that we caught our first glimpse of the Southern Ocean again, at a very chilly lookout.

We continued on, crossing over the border into South Australia. We celebrated with a photo before putting our watches forward by 2.5 hours…our body clocks are all over the place now!

Great sign! But we didn’t see any of the animals (except as roadkill).

It was a gusty drive, Mr A wrestling the steering wheel along the treeless plain.

Even Tassie is over the same-same scenery

The wind was even more challenging when one of these beasts (below) rushed past. Fortunately we worked out the road trains use channel 40 on the radio, so we now listen out for their arrival and have a brief chat before they overtake.

It was nearly 6pm South Australia time when we pulled up at our campground in Penong.

We decided to go for an explore. It’s a tiny settlement, with a store, a fuel station and a pub. Most of the houses are very run down, once beautiful gardens now very overgrown and neglected. Despite a feeling of poverty, there is also some investment here, with a new sports centre and skate park. It is also the site of the windmill museum.

We returned to cook dinner and relax while the sun set. Tomorrow we slow down again and begin to enjoy South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula. Next stop Streaky Bay (…I always think of bacon for some reason)…

November 3, 2017January 22, 2023

Day 156: 2 November – The Nullarbor

Author: Mr A

From: Fraser Range Station

To: Mundrabilla Roadhouse, Mundrabilla, WA

Distance driven: 545 km

We planned to get a few ks under the belt today – 545 in fact (around 340 miles) so we decided to skip brekky and get on the road early. The road stretched in front of us another 1,300 kms before we would pull off to head to the coast. We came to the sign that announced the longest straight piece of road in Australia was starting, 90kms later I would turn the wheel slightly to the right and it was over.

I had had a good sleep so easily chewed up the miles until lunch, a delicious sandwich and a quick break to look at the limestone blowhole and I was back in the saddle.

This is the blow hole – not much happening today but when the ocean is rough, apparently a different story

Classy sign directing visitors to the blowhole

We listened to a heap of interesting podcasts and were soon pulling into our camp for the night by a roadhouse. We had planned to go for a walk, but it was cold, dusty and windy and not very inspiring so gave up that idea. What a desolate place. It was so tempting to say lets have a glass of wine, but had promised ourselves we would stay dry across the Nullabaor. We had been having a glass of wine nearly every night since we left, so probably time to give our livers a break!

Tomorrow we cross into South Australia. As well as being a big milestone for us (as the fourth state we had driven into on this trip), the boarder restrictions mean veggies have to be topped and tailed, and some cooked, frozen or discarded in order to prevent pests and disease being spread interstate. That task preceded dinner preparation – a chicken red curry with a lot of vegetables, accompanied by a fine glass of sparkling mineral water!

November 1, 2017January 23, 2023

Day 155: 1 November – Giving blood on a sheep station across the Nullabor

Author: Mrs A

From: Gibson’s Soak

To: Fraser Range Station

Distance driven: 283 km

Distance hiked (at high speed under great duress): 6 km

March flies fed: 200+ (estimate)

After a poor to fair night’s sleep at Gibson’s Soak, we were on the road bright and early to head up to Noseman. The main downside to our free camp was its position – right in between a rail line sporting freight trains hooting their horns from 4am and the main road north, sporting roaring road trains. Not the best combination for relaxation.

We headed first to Norseman, an old goldmining town, and what we expected to be the last frontier before commencing our crossing of the Nullabor. What we found was far from our expectations. Mr A had a nap while I popped to the local chemist and IGA supermarket for some final bits and pieces. Every shop and building was heavily protected with bars on windows, often no windows at all, replaced with shutters. Many shops were long closed and boarded up, the paint peeling and a strong feeling of deprivation. It was very sad indeed. We had intended to find a cash point, but alas there was none – I later discovered the bank closed two years ago.

Just over an hour beyond Norseman was our stop for the night, a sheep station on the Fraser Range. The station was originally settled in 1872, and was the first on the Nullabor. Its located in the Western Woodlands, and with its granite hills apparently looks little like the rest of the Nullabor Plain.

As we called in to announce our arrival we were surrounded instantly by flies, many of them biting March flies. Ouch. We were not impressed. The temperatures here are up in the late 20s, the warmest we have felt in a long while, but we were forced inside behind the safety of the flyscreens for most of the afternoon.

As the day wore on we decided we ought to try and get out. Mr A attempted a cycle but found few tracks to explore, so we decided to head up to the summit of the range on foot. We mistakenly thought the March flies would be preoccupied with other campers, but found there were plenty to go around.

Despite being bitten frequently on all limbs, tap dancing our way up the hills over granite bolders, we did manage to see some incredible scenery. It took some skill to stop for the minimum amount of time to quickly frame, focus and shoot photographs while sustaining the fewest bites, but we did it. A few looked vaguely ok even!

Can you spot all the biting March flies on the backs of my legs? Ouch!

On our 90 minute high speed dance up and down to the summit, we failed to see a single sheep. We did spot a baby camel, a calf, several red kangaroos, a pair of shingleback lizards, and a wild goat.

Kangaroos – tough fur to protect from flies

Likely to be a feral goat (‘range’ goat)

Great colours up here as the sky shows signs of a change in the weather ahead

Reaching the summit was a relief. I quickly wrote a message in the visitor’s book, and it was about turn and back down to camp as the sun went down.

With darkness the flies vanished, and we retired for dinner and a good night’s sleep…we hope.

October 31, 2017July 14, 2023

Day 154: 31 October – Spring arrives in the south of WA!

Author: Mr A

Location: Esperance & Gibson’s Soak

Stepping out of the Zone this morning it felt….warm….and spring perhaps has finally arrived in this rather cool end of WA. We had to drop the caravan off for a new ensuite door to be fitted…dé jà vu indeed. The last one had arrived in Perth damaged and so Zone RV had shipped one down to Esperance, no questions. They are good guys!

First thing on the list was a trip to Bunnings to get another chair – they have a special on and we bought one yesterday as my chair seems to be occupied by a small cat more often than not. We were so pleased with it we thought we’d pick up another one, again for the princely sum of $5s. Bunnings is the best!

Next I was sent into the local super IGA for some provisions, a dangerous move. I went in with the mandate to purchase two bottles of Diet Coke, and came out with four bags full! I just couldn’t resist their Cornish pasties, and the tequila and lime olives were just begging to be tested. The cheese counter had a wide selection of sheep cheese, so I thought it was rude not to stock up for Mrs A. Etc…etc…. I am approaching the Nullarbor crossing knowing there will be very little of anything but pies and the very ordinary Mrs Mac’s sausage rolls for sale along the 1800km of culinary desert that awaits us.

We had planned to go back into town for a fish and chip lunch, something Esperance with its fleet of fishing boats was famous at doing well. However, it wasn’t to be. The number one rated restaurant had closed on Saturday and was opening again today, Tuesday at 4.30pm – way past lunch! The four other options we looked at were all closed. It seems Esperance with a French name is looking to emulate their business hours, and double the price we paid last year for a plat de jour in a beautiful little Parisian cafe. I don’t profess to understand how everything has got so expensive here, but the European tourist is definitely noticing and not happy.

It was time for plan B then and break out the supplies. A marvellous picnic lunch in the sun, a very relaxing afternoon before heading off to pick up the Zone. I wish we had a little more time here but time is marching on and the Nullabor beckons.

We only had a short drive to our planned camp for the night, a field beside an old pub called The Gibson Soak Hotel. I wandered into the bar to check WikiCamps was up to date and it was still OK to pull up. It was, another very friendly bar man who was pleased with the extra custom from grey nomads I would think. Another caravan was there already and three more pulled up while we were setting up.

Gibson Soak was named after Billy Gibson, who reportedly stumbled across the soak (spring) while searching for stock

I wonder what the story is with this stretch limo parked outside the motel!

Tassie was fascinated by the range of farm animals she had spotted out the window. Not entirely comfortable, she quickly retreated to her “safe space” behind the pillows!

We ambled over to the pub and a couple of locally brewed beers soon hit the spot (oops, forgot our dry pledge…oh well, we don’t start the Nullabor until tomorrow…). The locally caught Snapper and chips were brilliant. Finally…our fish and chip craving satisfied.

October 30, 2017July 14, 2023

Day 153: 30 October – Esperance finally shows us some warmth

Author: Mrs A

Location: Esperance & Cape Le Grand National Park

Distance driven: 120 km return

Distance hiked: 10 km

Finally the wind dropped this morning, with gusts around 30 km an hour instead of 70! So yes, still ‘breezy’ by usual standards, but not uncomfortably so. We had earmarked today to head to the nearby national park – Cape Le Grand – to do some hiking and so the upturn in the weather was a relief.

Cape Le Grand is named after one of the officers on the ship L’Espérance (after which Esperance is named – French for hope) which sailed here in 1792. There are rugged granite peaks and cliffs, the remains of a huge mountain range which once stretched along the coast here, originally higher than the Himalayas, but now smooth and eroded. The many turquoise bays are what it is mostly famous for, and the flora and fauna which exists here and nowhere else.

We commenced our section of the ‘Le Grand Coastal Track’ at Lucky Bay, following an extremely scenic route along the cliffs to the next bay, Thistle Cove. Lucky Bay has been voted the whitest beach in Australia, with sand so fine is literally squeaks as you walk on it. A beautiful bay which stretches round in a great arc, its coastline stretching out to the archipelago of islands off the coast.

Soft sand and gentle waves – the water is very cold though!

Everywhere we looked was stunning, and barely anyone else about either, certainly not on our walking track. Birds, kangaroos, wildflowers and lizards often tried to block our view of the great blue, but we managed to dodge past them.

An Ornate Dragon basks on the warm granite rocks

We enjoyed a picnic lunch on the white sand beach at Thistle Cove, before retracing our steps back to Lucky Bay. We called into the serenely named Hellfire Bay on our way back to Esperance…no hell or fire, just more turquoise water and glaringly white sand.

We are moving on from Esperance tomorrow, heading further east. We will be travelling across the Nullabor Desert, so this afternoon popped into the local supermarket to stock up on supplies, mostly fresh fruit and vegetables, as these will be few and far between on our 1,300 km (808 miles) journey.

This evening we treated ourselves to a meal at the local Chinese. Once again, our first and second choices of restaurant were both closed (!), but the Chinese was delicious. No more mention of wine for a while – we have been alcohol-free since dinner on Saturday. We have decided to abstain until we reach South Australia. A dry desert crossing if you like!

October 29, 2017July 14, 2023

Day 152: 29 October – Esperance: cold and closed but oh so beautiful!

Author: Mr A

Distance driven: about 55 km

We wandered along the coast road this morning into Esperance along Ocean Drive (how did they think of that name?) and were blown away – literally and figuratevely. The wind has again gusted to just under 70km an hour (44 mph), trees were down and I was gripping the wheel of the rig like a mad thing – again. When we reached the ocean though the view was….I must use a word other than incredible..how about stupendous!

The first thing we (i.e. my lovely artistic wife) noticed were the colours, every shade of blue (apparently – I thought blue was blue). The waves were huge and smashing against the rocks, it was all very dramatic.

Although Tassie was quite unmoved by all the fuss. We arrived at the caravan park, called Bather’s Paradise. We looked at each other and shivered at the very thought of bathing. The temperature was supposedly 17 degrees (at midday) but that wind was bitingly cold. Anyway the park seemed nice, and we ploughed into a laundry mountain. Keeping the washing from leaving the line and not providing clothing for some deserving person in Darwin was our next challenge.

It was a Sunday and we had read the market was on. But it was closed because of the wind. Bloody wind. We needed to do a food supermarket shop. But they were closed because it was a Sunday. We needed to buy some things at the pet store. It was closed. The chemist was closed. Target was closed. The restaurant we planned to go to was closed, the plan B for dinner was the chip shop that had been recommended…it was closed. The fresh fish shop at the harbour….you guessed it. Esperance is either deeply religious or stuck in a 90s time warp. I’m betting on the latter.

So its a pre-cooked curry from the deep freeze and a (another) quiet night in. Good job I’m such remarkably exciting company.

When the Cat's Away…

Posts

Day 163: 9 November – Great White Shark Cage Diving in the Neptune Islands

Day 161: 7 November – Locks Well Beach and its natural treasures

Day 159: 5 November – …Or as the locals call it ‘Blowvember’!

Day 158: 4 November – A taste of Streaky Bay

Day 157: 3 November – Into our fourth state of the trip

Day 156: 2 November – The Nullarbor

Day 155: 1 November – Giving blood on a sheep station across the Nullabor

Day 154: 31 October – Spring arrives in the south of WA!

Day 153: 30 October – Esperance finally shows us some warmth

Day 152: 29 October – Esperance: cold and closed but oh so beautiful!

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