16 September: Feasting with friends in the sunshine

Author: Mrs A

Location: Atascadero and Three Rivers, California, USA

Sunday: After a light breakfast it was time for a jacuzzi. Does life get any better than this? Mr A and I then packed up the car and we all headed back to the Paso Robles wine district and Niner Wine Estates for lunch.Set in beautifully landscaped grounds and housed in a modern stone building, lunch was served outside on a courtyard. The estate grows much of its own produce as well as all the wine served, with a philosophy of sourcing local and in season produce.Lunch was delicious – every ingredient carefully chosen and perfectly prepared. Incredible wine also accompanied our food…the perfect ingredients for a long lazy afternoon.However, Mr A and I were heading off, aiming for our next destination inland. Dave, SJ, Tim and Moki accompanied us into Paso Robles to the supermarket, where we farewelled our friends and headed off.We drove through ever changing scenery to Three Rivers, a little settlement in the foothills of Sequoia National Park.

We’ve holed up in a hotel for the night, a simple meal of tomatoes, hummus and wraps accompanied by Netflix. All is good – we’re looking forward to exploring more tomorrow once we’re in the national park proper.

15 September: A taste of California’s Central Coast

Author: Mrs A

Location: Atascadero, California, USA

Saturday: Our day commenced with a walk and hummingbirds, as all good Saturday mornings should! Mr A took Moki for a short walk, and then came back for me. We ambled down the road, checking out the fabulous views and houses tucked away into the hillsides. We decided that Dave and SJ have the best view in the neighbourhood.Back at the house, SJ had put some food out for the birds, and feathered friends flocked to their feast. The house is surrounded by nectar producing flowers, many we recognise from Australia, such as the kangaroo paw. This was a real favourite of the tiny sapphire green birds.Before long, Tim and Dave had returned from their 80km cycle (!) and were feeling ravenous for lunch, so we piled into a couple of cars and headed 30 minutes towards the coast to the fishing town of Morro Bay. Morro Bay is known for the huge volcanic rock which sits at the entrance of the bay, and the very active sea otter population, attracted to the fish in the bay as well as the discarded scraps.

Fish and chips and a dozen oysters were called for, consumed in a waterside café complete with karaoke blues singer. It was a fun atmosphere and delicious food.After food we wandered along the waterfront looking for sea otters. They were not hard to spot, great little fishers, swimming on their backs to better eat their catch, often chased by herring gulls keen to steal an easy meal.Wine tasting was next on the agenda, so we headed inland, stopping off at a couple of fabulous lookouts en route.We drove to Opolo Wineries, where Moki was allowed to join us in the seating area while we tried some local tipples. Tim and I were the only ones keen for a taste, heading into the busy tasting room to try our drops.

Joe, one of SJ’s work colleagues arrived to pick up a box of wine, kindly offering to cover the cost of our tasting and donating a bottle of wine to our travel collection. What a generous guy – everyone we have met has been just so lovely here.We finished off our day with some take-out from a local restaurant in Atascadero and trying a local brew. Another fine day in California!

13-14 September: The US trip kicks off!

Author: Mr A

Location: Sydney, Australia to Pasadena, USA

Thursday: This was the longest Thursday ever! We got up at 6am in Sydney, flew to LA, spent hours crawling through LAX immigration and LA traffic up to Pasedena, then went shopping, had lunch, more shopping, then dinner. A total of 33 hours awake with a quick 40 minute snooze.

Thanks to Pasedena local Deborah (Catherine’s friend though her Facebook group for fellow sufferers of her airway disease*) we were collected from our motel, driven around to organise local mobile SIM cards, banking and then to the local outdoor chain store REI, where I promptly got stuck in to some much needed retail therapy. Catherine wasn’t quite as lucky finding her size in things.Deborah also took us to the best places to eat, with Japanese dining at lunch, a break for a local brew mid afternoon and American grill in the evening.All were superb high quality food experiences with great service.

Mrs A almost committed a rookie error when visiting the bathroom though. There was a dispenser by the sink that was full of blue lotion. Catherine was about to squirt it into her hands (assuming it was soap) when the lady next to her, who seemed unable to speak, began gesturing enthusiastically. Catherine twigged…it was mouthwash she was about to clean her hands with! We then got chatting to Catherine’s rescuer and her dinner date. Everyone’s so friendly.

Pasadena isn’t going to be on everyone’s tourist list, we came here to see Deborah and escape LA traffic before collecting our hire car, but we could easily have spent much longer here. The higher elevation here means its a little fresher than the smoky LA basin, so a town grew up framed by the mountains that provide a scenic backdrop.

Location: Pasadena to Atascadero, California, USA

Friday: After some much needed sleep we headed down to sample our first US breakfast. Now, apparently the grey porridge looking substance in the photo is….biscuits in gravy. Not something I’m going to add to my roast beef anytime soon!

Then we were off to pick up our car. Driving on the right here we come. Deborah transferred over her “care package” for us – a slab of water bottles, disposable plates, cutlery and all sorts for picnics. What an amazingly thoughtful lady. She keeps thanking Catherine for all her help and support through the Facebook group, and was grateful to be able to do something for her. Don’t tell Tassie, but there was a little bit of time with Deborah’s very cute Pomeranian ‘cat-dog’ Houdi (Houdini!) before we headed off.

So all equipped we headed off north up to Route 101…minus Houdi!When we stopped at a junction just outside Santa Barbara, we spotted this young guy with an interesting proposition.A stop was called for in Santa Barbara, first job a quick wine stock up (we need to get used to the premium price of Californian wine compared to Australia), and then spotted a sign for “Cat Therapy”. We couldn’t resist of course. It was a business just about to open as a cat café, and the young ladies us allowed us in for a preview.The idea is they take cats from rescue shelters in LA and use the café to showcase them to patrons as prospective adopters. Brilliant.

Lunch then beckoned in the form of the number 1 recommendation on Trip Advisor. We can see why, after fish tacos with a fresh salad that were top class. Gee this is going to be a tough trip on the waistline!

Santa Barbara had a lovely feel to it with wide open boulevards, Spanish style architecture and upmarket shops. Clearly some money floating around here.

As we pulled away from Santa Barbara we were treated to magnificent views over the Channel Islands National Park and the valley below. Ever the tour guide, we received a message from Deborah recommending we stop for a beer at the Cold Springs Tavern, an old staging post in the hills. We took the short diversion – very nice…loving the locally brewed beers and the very cute blue Californian Steller-Jays. The views from the road were superb as we climbed up to our friends’ place in Atascadero where we will spend the weekend. Dave and SJ moved out of the hustle and bustle of San Francisco a year ago to this incredible spot way up on a ridge with 360 degree views towards either the ocean or the vineyards.

A superb dinner was spent sampling some local products from those vineyards, awesome surf and turf to soak it up. It’s awesome to see people like these guys so change their lives from inner city to rural isolation. Just check out these views and our first taste of their local hummingbird population.Our friends recently also moved to fur parent status. Check out this poser!We’ve certainly had a fantastic start to our month in the USA – how can it get better than this?

*Idiopathic subglottic stenosis

7-12 September: A brief return to city life

Author: Mrs A

Friday – location: Newcastle

We continued our journey south, watching the temperature drop a few degrees and the skies turn grey and heavy with rain. We were to have a somewhat gentle introduction to city life, with an overnight with our friends Karen and Chris in Merewether, Newcastle.

Tassie’s been here before, and was soon running from room to room, exploring every nook and cranny before crashing out on our bed exhausted from all the excitement. We meanwhile relished in fast internet speeds, and relaxed with a cup of herbal tea to catch up on news.Tea progressed into champagne, and the four of us then went out for a delicious local curry – Mark and Chris careful not to overdo the cheese and nibbles before we went!

Saturday-Wednesday – location: Sydney

After a delicious breakfast in Newcastle, we moved on for the last leg back into Sydney. We’d booked caravan storage in Marrickville, quite a central location, but this meant driving through Saturday afternoon traffic on one of Sydney’s busiest arteries, Parramatta Road…not really designed for towing.Mark drove excellently despite the stressful conditions, and before long we were emptying the last of our freezer bits and pieces and heading to our friends’ apartment in Matraville, not far from Botany Bay for a delicious roast lamb dinner and a well deserved glass of red wine.

Sunday was Mr A’s birthday, so we were joined by about 30 friends at a pub in the city for drinks and nibbles and a general catch up. Much fun and frivolity ensued of course.Monday and Tuesday were earmarked for the all essential medical check ups, with good news for Mr A’s eye pressures, less good news for my airway (but a new procedure to try in October), and some steroid injections into my foot to allow some comfortable hiking in the USA.

We got all our jobs done and managed to fit in a couple of cups of tea with friends too. Sydney was back to its usual sparkling self:

Wednesday was a final packing day as we fly off to Los Angeles in the morning. We started with an early morning walk in the Malabar Headland National Park. Mr A and Jenny walked, while I (on doctors orders not to use my foot much, post injections) did a little bird spotting – mostly wattle birds, New England honeyeaters, lorikeets, cockatoos and fairy wrens. What a pretty area and great time of day to enjoy the sunrise and birdlife.Mr A took the opportunity to catch up with a bunch of old work colleagues for lunch while I had a hair cut. Lovely.We finished off our day joining Jenny and David for dinner at a local Italian restaurant. Fabulous food and company as always.While we are away, Miss Tassie will be staying here at her luxury pad in Matraville for the next month. She’s settled in nicely, already solar mapping out the apartment. Apparently the new chairs on the balcony suit her, while she is also finding the colour scheme elsewhere works with her glossy blue coat. She’s in good hands here.

5-6 September: Escaping the highway in Port Macquarie

Author: Mr A

Location: Port Macquarie, New South Wales

It was our last couple of nights of this trip in a caravan park and we chose a spot we had been to before on the coast at Port Macquarie. We managed to get in a 11km walk along the cliffs and beaches that seem to stretch endlessly in either direction from this buzzy little town.The sand was just so fine and white, almost felt like flour in your hand. We had a great lunch at a little surf cafe, and then settled in back at the Zone.

It was time to get our packing organised for the US trip next week. Thank goodness for the app Wunderlist that, since friends recommended it, has become our way of staying organised. It made things pretty straightforward as we had built up our packing and prep list for a while. We are on countdown now!

3-4 September: Heading south & back into NSW

Author: Mrs A

Monday – Location: Noosa to Coolum Beach, then to Brisbane

We were all sad to say farewell to our friends Ray and Wendy in Noosa, particularly Tassie, who had become accustomed to her choice of laps and enjoyed her days relaxing on the daybed watching the activity on the river. But it was time to collect our Zone from its couple of days of pampering and head on our way.

We called into Belmondo’s on the way out of Noosa, finding ourselves spending a ridiculous amount of money on a handful of items, before heading south to Coolum, the home of Zone.

Before long, we were pulling away, and heading on the highway south to stay the night with our fellow Zoners, Libby and Phil.We had a brief whirlwind of time to transfer our cases and food back into the caravan, dig out the smart clothes and get changed, before the four of us drove into Brisbane for the evening.

The weather has been tumultuous – really cold for Brisbane (about 15 degrees centigrade!) and wet – but as we arrived at South Bank the clouds lifted to give us a fabulous display across the river into the city.After this, we parted ways, Phil and Libby ending up at a pub helping celebrate a nephew’s birthday, while Mr A and I joined three lovely ladies for dinner in a French restaurant beside the water.

I’ve been invited to talk at the Australian Society of Otolaryngology and Head and Neck Surgery here in Brisbane next March regarding my work with the rare disease I have, idiopathic subglottic stenosis. Two of the ladies we met were paediatric ENT surgeons here in Brisbane, and the third worked at a pharmaceutical company, supplying equipment for the surgeons, and a sponsor for the event.

We had a lovely evening, delicious food, and I got to talk about a cause very close to my heart (and airway!). I’m looking forward to next year’s event already and all the good it can potentially do.

Our very generous hosts collected us at the end of our meal, and whisked us back to their home for warm drinks and conversation. Such incredible kindness from friends we only met for the first time in March this year!

Tuesday – location: Brisbane, Samford – Queensland and Woombah, New South Wales

Breakfast was our first port of call, the four of us heading down into the nearby village of Samford to Phil and Libby’s favourite café, Black Sheep. Delicious Eggs Benedict for three, and a breakfast wrap for me, and we were all happy campers, definitely not in need of lunch today!

We had a chance to admire the five plus acre property we’re staying on, full of birds, rolling hills and bushland – just beautiful – before our hosts escorted us on our way via their secret route to the main road south.

There followed a stressful few hours on the M1 motorway, packed full of tailgating semitrailers and road trains going much too fast for the wet conditions.

We finally pulled off the road at the little settlement of Woombah, breathing a sigh of relief as we left behind the noise and the traffic and set up camp in a site with a fabulous view.We have probably driven past this area a dozen times without any awareness of what’s here, but it’s a lovely rural settlement sat on the banks of the Clarence River close to the estuary. There are over 100 islands in the wide river here, the nearest to us being Goodwood Island.

In need of fresh air and exercise, we set up camp, donned our rain coats and headed off for a walk.The sun was starting to set so we only went a couple of kilometres, crossing over the bridge to Goodwood Island and checking out the wet sugar cane fields before returning for the evening.More rain and thunder entertained us, a novelty after the dry and drought of the inland areas. Sadly, it seems the rain is sticking to the coast, not helping out the farmers this time.

We’ll continue our journey south tomorrow, and with a continued forecast of rain, have not made any plans for where we might end up…all part of the adventure!

30 August – 2 September: Noosa…we love yer!

Author: Mr A

Location: Noosaville, Noosa River, Queensland

Thursday: We left Tin Can Bay to drive down to Coolum and drop our van off at Zone for a service. I was reflecting on how well things had gone as we approach the final leg of this trip….Lo and behold, a logging truck approaches on the other side of the road, and suddenly there’s a big crash as a massive stone puts a hole in our windscreen and showers Catherine and Tassie with shards of glass!

We quickly paint the broken area with nail polish lacquer to prevent the cracks spreading. A phone call to NRMA and a repair is easily organised. It could have been a lot nastier if the windscreen had totally shattered.

We arrived at Zone and ran through the job sheet of minor warranty work and service items, then left them to it and headed up to Noosa. Our friends who live there had invited us to stay with them for the weekend. Just driving along the river to their place brought back so many happy memories from our last stay here on the way up the coast back in April.

We all piled into their car and headed for lunch to one of our favourite spots in town, Belmondo’s, a deli on steroids. You can find every kind of produce here and lunch was a taste sensation after so many outback miles of fine food deprivation!

Back at Wendy and Ray’s apartment, the next treat is a quick trip out on their boat up the river. The water is pristine after weeks with no rain.We chat about our plan to come and rent here when we have had enough of our full time nomadic phase. It certainly is nice to be in an apartment again with endless water on tap and a toilet I don’t have to empty every morning! Tassie also approves, taking up her position on the day bed watching the non-stop action on the river. Watching the sunset turn the water to red, we both feel that we want to see this view a LOT more.

Friday: The windscreen repairer made short work of popping in a new one, and we are ready to roll. We met up with some fellow Zoners in the evening, plus Caroline and Brian, with their lovely kids, Hannah and Hamish, who we knew from Sydney before they took the plunge and moved up here. It was a great evening, and reminds us how much we miss friends being on the road and constantly travelling.

Saturday: We headed off to the Eumundi markets, we had loved them last time we visited and had some present buying to do.All sorts of local folk are selling their wares, or cooking up tasty treats. We could so get used to this life!

Back in Noosa we had a bit of a special dinner planned with our fabulous hosts. A new restaurant had just opened up down the road, so we gave it a whirl. What awesome food, very innovative taste combinations right from the pre-dinner coacktails. I had a cheeky little number containing bourbon, Shiraz (yes!) sugar and lemon. Delicious – check out YoYo next time you’re up this way.Sunday: A little worse for wear this morning, it was market time again – this time at the local Noosa farmers market. It seems the whole town turns out to buy their weekly fruit and veg, so you can see it is a bit of a social catch up as well. The food we buy is all just so yummy. Fresh olives with flavours that just leap out at you. Nitrate free bacon. Oranges and apples that are bursting with juice.

Our hosts again take us out on their boat and we pull up onto the white sand at the mouth of the river and wander down the beach. It’s just simply the most beautiful lifestyle I can imagine.We come back and pile into the fresh produce for lunch.

No wonder everyone we meet here is so friendly and jolly. Yes, its an expensive area to live in compared to other parts of Queensland, but if you can afford it why wouldn’t you try it? It will be interesting to be here through the hot and muggy three months of summer though. Let’s see…

To finish off the weekend we went to the Sunset Bar for a couple of drinks…guess why they called it that?What a view. Great beer on tap, free live music, good bar service. I could enjoy making this a regular Sunday night catch up spot with friends!

27-29 August: Back on the Fraser Coast in Tin Can Bay

Author: Mrs A

Location: Tin Can Bay, Queensland

Monday: We packed up and moved on from Seventeen-Seventy, heading south. Our destination was the bizarrely named Tin Can Bay, due east of Gympie and just north of Noosa.

The origins of its name are unclear, but there is some suspicion it is linked to an Aboriginal word which sounds similar to Tin Can – perhaps meaning mangroves, dugongs or vine with large ribbed leaves. I think it is very odd that nobody has recorded the reason for the name given it was only named in 1937.

We arrived early afternoon and set up in the campground. We’re in a quiet suburban location, surrounded by melaleuca trees and birds. We jumped on the bikes for an explore.

Tin Can Bay is known for its tame humpback dolphins which visit the point each morning for fish and to delight visitors young and old. It’s a fishing port, with a working marina. The bay itself is tidal, and we arrived at low tide to see boats strewn around the mud flats like stranded whales.

We remembered driving up Rainbow Beach near here with my mum a few years ago, before taking the ferry over to Fraser Island.

Tuesday: It was slow start to the day with Miss Tassie enjoying the sunshine and exploring our little garden site. We’ve no canine neighbours so she feels relatively safe here, though still quite shy of other people. The caravan is always her ‘safe Zone’ – any perception of danger and she rushes back inside.

Mr A and I decided we should get out and do some walking, and a little research online and we found the Cooloola Wilderness Trail started a short drive away. This trail is generally a 2-3 day hike all the way down to Elanda, on the outskirts of Noosa, but we thought we would try a 10km return walk just to stretch the legs.And what a beautiful walk it is. We are days away from the offical start of spring here (1st September) but the wildflowers were out in abundance.Several varieties of boronia, teatree, bottlebrush, peas, heath, eucalypts and more brightened our pathway, accompanied by the rhythmic hum of insects feeding on the nectar. It really was good for the soul and reminded us how much we love bush walking at this time of year.The pathway was well marked and predominantly white sand or grass, very easy walking with a couple of water crossings along the way. The landscape was quite open with good views to the east, across to the Great Sandy National Park.Even the trunks of the gum trees were beautiful!We stopped walking after around 5km when we saw the path dropping steeply downhill, remembering we had to turn around at some point and return via the same route.We definitely recommend getting out and enjoying the Australian bush at this time of year.

Returning to camp we had a couple of hours’ rest before deciding to do some more exploring on two wheels. We rode up to the marina and followed the point around, finishing another 10km circuit before dinner.

Wednesday: The day commenced with a little US trip planning, continued with a bbq brunch, and proceeded with a great deal of cleaning inside and out.

The mobile apartment is off to its birthplace tomorrow for a long weekend, having a little TLC from the Zone crew for its latest service. Meanwhile, the three of us are off to Noosa for some civilisation with friends.

24-26 August: A weekend in Agnes Water and 1770

Author: Mr A

Location: Seventeen-Seventy, Queensland

Friday: Leaving Cania Gorge behind we headed towards the coast, our destination being the tiny settlement of Seventeen Seventy, so named after it was discovered that Captain Cook made his second landfall in Australia here in…that’s right…1770.

We arrived in time to get the bikes off and explore, it was a short ride down the road and this spectacular view confronted us.So good to be back by the ocean again, with those lovely smells of the sea air, the calm waters of the Coral Sea exuding a tranquility that we just soaked up, over a cold beer.I did smile though on seeing this cafe perched in a car park, next to the road, when the other side of the building was…..…this view! I don’t think 1770 has quite made it into 2018 – and that’s part of its appeal.

Saturday: Again we were off on the bikes down to the beach at the back of our caravan park, then a great ride along the sand to Agnes Water a few kilometres down the beach.This was a little less sleepy, with a few shops and restaurants, one of which we had been told was going to be offering an Indian focused menu tonight. A booking was made – this little business is clearly making an effort to do something a bit different. A range of speciality teas lined the walls that almost rivalled our selection in the Zone!

We pottered back to our camp down the bike path and spent a very productive afternoon organising more of our upcoming US trip and being taken on an exploration by Princess Tassie. Then it was back to Cafe Discovery for their take on Indian food. A beef vindaloo and chicken tikka masala went down a treat.

Sunday: Rain in the night! So exciting! We haven’t heard that soothing pitter patter on the roof for so long. We made it down to the markets and back via the lookout in 1770 before the thunderstorm started in earnest. A great little market as well, lots of locals and grey nomads alike picking up these fresh fruit and veg so totally absent from any supermarkets we had seen for weeks.We decided to brave the weather and headed out for a walk, so glad we did. The first short walk we did through a paper bark forest was magical with the sun making the dripping vegetation just sparkle. Then it was a 6km coastal walk, although the weather then closed in and it really started to throw it down, complete with thunder and lightning.Back to the park and a quiet Sunday night (when isn’t it nowadays!) and plans made for our departure tomorrow.

Well done Agnes Water and Seventeen-Seventy.

23-24 August: At peace among the bloodwoods

Author: Mrs A

Location: Cania Gorge, Queensland

Wednesday: We awoke to the sound of bird footsteps on our roof, the well fed and humanised parrots expecting their breakfast. With temperatures near to zero again, we weren’t keen to leave the heated confines of our Zone, but I stuck my hand out of the window with a few raw peanuts in my hand, and I soon had a pair of king parrots sat on it munching away.

Before long, it was warming up a little outside, so Mr A fired up the Baby Q and cooked up pork sausages and eggs for breakfast. Not a bad start to Wednesday morning.

Of course all this eating meant we needed to burn it off, so we decided to tackle one of the walks. We chose a circuit, first hiking up to a lookout (the Giant’s Chair) and then looping around to the Fern Tree Pool.Queensland is very dry currently, not having had rain in this area for a couple of months. This is very evident in the sheer numbers of birds flocking to this little water source, particularly grey fantails and flocks of silvereyes, so gorgeous.Six kilometres later we were back at camp for a relax. This is one of the nicest places we have parked our mobile apartment in a long while, surrounded by tall gum trees, dappled sunlight and high sandstone walls providing a picturesque backdrop. As we sat outside with a cup of tea a couple we had seen on our walk strolled past, the American man inviting Mark to join him on a cycle up to the dam later on in the afternoon. Mark accepted his invitation, and jumped on his bike for a ride.I meanwhile finished baking an orange and almond cake, and left that to cool while I went off on another 6km walk.

This time I walked to the babbling Three Moon Creek, hoping to see platypus doing backstroke along the clear pools. Sadly it was not to be, but I did enjoy the gorgeous reflections in the late afternoon sun.From there, I walked up to Dragon Cave, so named for the black ‘mural’ of a dragon up on the wall in there…with a little imagination. Generally I just enjoyed the clean fresh air, the sound of the birds and just being outdoors in the warm light of the late afternoon.I reached camp just as the sun was setting, and Mr A was already sipping a glass of French red wine with his cycling partner and some other neighbours. It turns out the cyclist, Ben, works with mutual friends in Sydney. What a small world!

Thursday: We had a slow start to the day, getting our washing done and enjoying pancakes and blueberries in the early morning sunshine.

By 11 o’clock we were out in the car this time, whizzing up to the reservoir Mark had cycled up to yesterday. It was strange seeing such a large body of water after so much dry land.Cania Gorge had a gold rush in the 1870s, and the remnants were visible on a short walk. There was little gold here, with 183.5 tons of rock yielding only around 4.3kg of gold – a lot of work for little reward under gruelling conditions. Today felt pretty warm at about 25 degrees centigrade in the middle of winter. We had a wander around, then headed off to do another, longer walk.

Our next hike took us up to Bloodwood Cave, named for the roots of a bloodwood gum tree which intertwine through the cave. The towering bloodwoods were a key feature of the walk overall.We hiked up to a lookout giving us a fabulous view across this little National Park, before returning to camp.