Saturday 24 March: The “Zone off” reaches a crescendo!

Author: Mr A

Location: Moonee Beach

It was another intermittently wet day, following an evening where a bloke with big bags of marbles was hurling them onto the roof of the caravan all night! The morning Bollywood markets at Woolgoolga we sought were cancelled due to bad weather, so a café breakfast was the substitute. Now guess which meal was mine and which was Mrs A’s?Yes…home made toasted muesli for me. I will be wearing sack cloth and ashes next. We checked out the spectacular scenery and lookout in the bright morning sunshine after breakfast, before heading back to Moonee Beach….As we left camp another Zone was coming in, and finally in the late afternoon the last Zoner checked in, coming straight from the factory at Coolum Beach yesterday. So 14 vans have checked in here – around 10% of the total number on the road. I think it’s interesting that we would all be quite happy to come and spend a weekend with mostly total strangers, just because we brought the same product. We think it’s a lot to do with the Zone Owner’s Facebook group that has allowed us to get a feel for the type of people who are buying them. The posts are positive and collaborative, exchanging tips and ideas, all moderated very professionally, unlike some of the other groups we belong to in the caravan space. In these challenging times for Facebook it’s good to remember that social media can also be used very positively, in this case encouraging on-line relationships to be converted to real world connections.

So an evening was spent very merrily at the local Moonee Beach Tavern, 27 folk I think from many different walks of life, chatting away about their lives and travels, united by a love of the great Australian outdoors. It reminded me of how lucky we are to live in a country that enables us to do something like this. We have spent the afternoon walking on a pristine beach that Catherine and I had to ourselves, and then we spend the evening planning new adventures with a whole bunch of like minded people.

Our walk was special – not only did we see off the last of the rain, but the sun came out, allowing us to walk the 7km without getting anything other than our feet wet and enabling us to enjoy this stunning coastline along Sapphire Beach.We are also thankful that we don’t have to worry that someone with a semi-automatic is going to break into the pub. The worst we had was a young football team rehearsing some testosterone fuelled war cries. We go to bed with full bellies and I think generally happy hearts. Yes a bunch of us have our health issues, our family problems, but compared to so many in the world… life is good here, and long may it continue.

Australia as we know has had a “dream run”, the Lucky Country. Our challenge will be as America withdraws from Asia – how will we respond to the rise of Chinese soft and hard power? Will our politicians be up for the new challenge that represents for Australia? I hope they find the courage to look beyond their short term personal ambition to provide the leadership we will undoubtedly need to navigate the changes this will bring culturally and economically.

If you fancy a sobering read then check out respected academic Hugh White’s essay “Without America” (https://www.quarterlyessay.com.au/essay/2017/11/without-america)…this gives some clues as to our potential future landscape…

Friday 23 March: Exploring around Coffs

Author: Mrs A

Location: Moonee Beach

The sound of thousands of ball bearings being thrown on the roof of our mobile apartment was what greeted us this morning, with heavy rain showers blowing in from the ocean. Adventurous plans of going hiking in the rainforest were abandoned in favour of cake baking and morning tea with our fellow Zoners, also dodging the inclement weather. As the morning wore on, more Zone RVs arrived taking us up to 11 vans, making the caravan park look like a muddy rainforest version of a Zone showroom, should such a thing exist!A fun morning tea was had with lots of laughs and discussion with our fellow Zoners.

Eventually there was a break in the cloud, so Mr A and I decided to head into Coffs Harbour to find some long awaited oysters from the Fisherman’s Co-Op…as we entered though we were enticed by the smell of freshly cooked Blue Grenadier and chips, and so were swayed into having a naughty lunch instead. Oysters will wait until tomorrow!We have such good memories of our last visit to Coffs Harbour, the beautiful sights and plenty of walking, paddling and cycling opportunities. Its a beautiful part of New South Wales.

After filling ourself we decided we ought to get out and do a walk, and drove up into the hills behind Coffs to Ulidarra National Park. There we managed a short 3km return hike to the Korora Lookout which rewarded us with views across the region and to the north – a rainforest walk with beautiful natural sculptures telling an Aboriginal story.From there we drove to the Forest Sky Pier, a jetty which stretches out over the rainforest allowing a view across Coffs and to the south. The views were magnificent, probably moreso because of the dramatic skies with billowing clouds, showers and rainbows out over the ocean.We returned to the campground via the Moonee Tavern, confirming our group booking for dinner tomorrow night and booking the courtesy bus to ferry us down there. Before long 6 o’clock drinks were calling us, and we all reunited in the camp kitchen for stories of travels and tips for future adventures.

The rain settled in again for the evening, drowning out any chance of conversation or entertainment via the television. It’s forecast to be similar weather tomorrow, hopefully with the odd break allowing us to enjoy the Bollywood Market along the coast…yes, Bollywood….sounds intriguing – who are we to consider not attending that spectacle! Watch this space for news of tomorrow’s adventures!

Thursday 22 March: It’s a Zone Off!

Author: Mr A

Location: Moonee Beach Caravan Park

Months ago we sent out an invite via Facebook to fellow owners of Zone caravans like ours (Zoners we call ourselves) to join us camping just north of Coffs at the beautiful Moonee Beach Caravan Park. Well, the regular bouts of pouring rain did nothing to dampen down the enthusiasm with which we were greeted by several Zoners already there when we arrived! We quickly got parked up and started getting to know them, helped along with drinks in one of the best camp kitchens we’ve seen, with a fabulous view over the beach.Our catch up was made possible by the hard work of fellow Zoner Ash Cook, who set up and administers a Facebook group so Zone owners, and those considering buying, can exchange stories of their travels and experiences with the caravans. It’s been a fantastic resource for us all.

Already we feel we have made some new friends from around Australia, with several couples here already having traveled down from Brisbane, another couple coming up from Lake Macquarie, and one van from WA on its way back! What a rich source of ideas about how to get the best out of the Zone, hidden gems of camping spots, and the odd essential kitchen gadget! It was a great evening, and looking forward to even more Zones heading in for the meet over the weekend.

We did take time out before drinks to do our usual explore around on the bikes, heading up along the Solitary Islands walking track, no surprise what the view was of. I love Australia’s naming conventions and how they keep you guessing! It was a fabulous view, massive rollers coming in after the recent wild weather and pounding the coast. Looking forward to exploring a bit further afield tomorrow.

Tuesday 20 March: Edging up the NSW coast

Author: Mrs A

Location: Port Macquarie, NSW

It was just a 90 minute drive from Bulahdelah up to Port Macquarie, so we were pulling into our campsite by lunchtime. We’d decided to head for a caravan park because the washing mountain was building up, plus there are a few days of wet weather forecast.

We were last in Port about 5 years ago, that time in our Ultimate camper trailer with the kayak and two eBikes. As we drove into town, familiar sights gradually reminded us of our last visit and the Hastings River oysters we had enjoyed. Ah yes, the oysters! Sadly none found today – something to save for tomorrow!

After a couple of loads of washing were done (remember our washing machine only takes 2kg!) and lunch consumed, we jumped on the mountain bikes for an explore. We are parked about 20 metres from part of the Macquarie coastline shared pathway, and so followed our noses for a while, eventually arriving at the Settlement Point river ferry. Checking Google Maps I could see we could cross the river and continue our cycle on the other side, potentially crossing back over via another ferry. Mark checked with a nearby local who confirmed the other ferry was indeed running, and off we went.The other side of the river was much quieter, with hardly a car on the road. We passed more oyster farms and beautiful white gum trees, before reaching the next ferry about 6km later.While the afternoon was bright and sunny, we noticed that the sky to the west was looking very dark. A quick look at the weather forecast listed a whole load of warnings, including for severe thunder storms, large hail and strong winds…we whizzed back to the campground to make sure windows were closed and the awning was secured. Of course, no inclement weather eventuated, just a hot cloudy humid evening. Still it was a good 18km ride, and got the blood moving after a few days of not much activity.

I’m actually hoping we get some rain tomorrow. Our lovely friends Donna and Andy (expert sourdough chefs) will be pleased to learn we are intending to try baking another loaf. Everything is prepared, and kneading hands are at the ready…wish us luck!

Monday 19 March: Feeling very lucky!

Author: Mr A

Location: Bulahdelah, NSW

Lucky in so many ways…that we went to such an awesome wedding yesterday and shared in the happiness of our friends getting hitched. Lucky also that we have headed off today for our next big trip, 6 months of caravanning around this beautiful country, initially heading up the east coast. Also a lot luckier than the folk in Tathra, on the NSW south coast, who have just lost their homes and caravans in the terrible bushfire. We were camped in the caravan park ourselves a few weeks ago. Really terrible destruction down there, it’s hard to imagine how devastating it is for these families to lose everything. Also lucky that after having my eyes checked this morning all is still well and the stent (fitted a few years ago) is still working properly to reduce pressure and save further deterioration in my vision.

This is my first post for a while, it has been a tough few weeks and I haven’t really felt like writing, so today decided to reflect on a great weekend, and count our blessings.

So feeling a little dusty after the weekend’s celebrations, and root canal treatment this morning, we collected our caravan from its parking spot outside our local bowlo, and pointed the Cruiser north. We had originally thought we would only make it to Wisemans Ferry today, but after a quick getaway decided to push on up up the freeway to Bulahdelah, a small RV friendly settlement now bypassed but looks still to be thriving, with the first donation camp beside the river being full. We carried on to the edge of town and found a nice $18 site on the showground, maintained by volunteers from the Lions Club. Plenty of room, nice grassy spots, toilets and water. Starting to feel a little excitement now that we have months stretching in front of us of the travelling life.The plan is as follows; head up the east coast of NSW this week, through the rain by the sound of it, then meeting up next weekend with some fellow Zoners just north of Coffs Harbour. Then making a friend’s property in western Brisbane home for Easter, then more friends in Noosa for the following week. After that we actually haven’t decided more than “keep the ocean on our right”, we tend to only book about 3/4 weeks ahead. Most likely we will go up into the Northern Territory before heading down the centre to be back in Sydney mid September.

We are again travelling with our “adventure cat” Tassie, who seemed quite excited when we pulled up today and there is a new view for her. However, we have left behind our big double kayak, after using it for the last weeks down the south coast. It’s just not practical to travel off road with the 7.3 metre kayak balanced on the top of our roof racks. Instead we have put the little inflateable boats back in the car.What else are we doing differently on this trip? Well we returned to to our pre-travel regime of fasting two days a week. Cutting out pies and snacks, and getting back to our fighting weights. It was a fasting day today, so tempting as it was being a little hungover to pile some fatty stuff in on the road, we resisited, and the first food since the wedding dinner last night is one of Catherine’s amazing veggie Pad Thais. Just delicious! It’s hard not to treat every day like a “holiday feast”, but when you’re travelling long term thats a recipe for getting over our recommended weight, as we did last year.

So here we go, we’re on the road again!

Friday-Monday 9-12 March: Ulladulla to Sydney

Author: Mrs A

Location: Ulladulla, Berry and Sydney

Friday was a big driving day as we left Merimbula and began heading north back to Sydney. Our destination for the night was Ulladulla, and the four hour drive felt like eight as Miss Tassie fidgeted and mewed for treats the whole way. As soon as we were unhitched on our bushy headland site we decided to explore, leaving Tassie to catch up on her 22 hours sleep!There was a lot of birdlife around our camp, with yellow robins, honeyeaters, fairy wrens, black cockatoos, wattle birds all flitting around. We climbed down to the beach and discovered pelicans, white bellied sea eagles and pied cormorants – a veritable sanctuary of feathered creatures.Our stay was brief, however, and the following morning we headed back on our way.

The next stop was back in Berry with our friends Barb and Omar. We parked up at the top of their property, treated to fantastic views over the district.That evening we enjoyed a delicious night out at the local Thai restaurant where other friends Alan and Jo joined us, entertaining us with stories of their goats and life on the farm.

Sunday morning we said farewell again and set off up the highway back to Sydney. We unhitched at Narabeen Lakeside caravan park (just a 20 minute drive from our home, should it not be rented). It feels quite strange to be so close to where we have lived for 14 years and yet be on fairly unfamiliar territory. Unfortunately they do not allow any pets on site, so we then drove Tassie to Hornsby to stay with her fur grandparents, Rosemary and Richard. She spent a few months with them last year, so it was lovely to see her settle comfortably in with them immediately – first jumping onto Richard’s lap for cuddles, then snuggling onto a cushion beside Rosemary. A busy day for all of us.

Today, Monday, I will not dwell on, but it was a very emotional day. We farewelled our friend Tim in a beautiful service at St Joseph’s College in Hunters Hill, followed by food and drinks at the Woolwich Wharf Hotel. There were many tears shed, some laughs, and plenty of beautiful memories shared. We caught a taxi home, physically and emotionally drained for a quiet evening. I took a sunset walk up to the Narabeen Headland to clear my head, and to remind myself how fortunate we are to be amongst such beauty, with so much to live for.A lovely quote caught my eye on a bench at one of the lookouts, an apt thought to end the day on:

Goodbyes are only for those who love with their eyes. Because for those who love with their hearts and souls there is no such thing as separation. – Rumi

Wednesday & Thursday 7-8 March: Oysters galore in Merimbula

Author: Mrs A

Location: Merimbula and Pembula, NSW

Wednesday morning saw us packing up and heading north, just a half hour drive this time to the lake and ocean side town of Merimbula. As usual we checked into the caravan site and unloaded our bikes, ready for a cycle to the oyster farm that the receptionist said ‘is right next door’. Turns out that wasn’t quite true, and the route to the farm was via the extremely busy and narrow Pacific Highway, huge road trains thundering past just metres from us – not ideal. Somehow, Google maps found an alternative route via an old disused track which wound alongside aforementioned road and we bush-bashed our way up the hill. Upon reaching the top, we saw the sign ‘Oyster shack – closed’. And so ended our cycling oyster experience.

Frustrated, we returned to get the car and headed off to find oysters elsewhere. Merimbula is full of oyster farms, the lakes’ mixture of tidal fresh and salty water ideal for their growth. We ordered a dozen oysters from a seafood store and sat down to enjoy them. Just delicious. We took another dozen to eat back at the mobile apartment.

We had a few tasks to undertake in town so wandered around the shops. Merimbula seems to be a mix of quite nice boutiques alongside two dollar shops. It doesn’t seem to be one thing or another. Mr A treated himself to an ice cream, then around the corner I found a shop selling hand made chocolates and ice cream – including my favourite, dairy-free dark chocolate sorbet! What a treat!

We awoke Thursday morning to absolutely no wind, perfect paddling weather. Needing to burn off the decadence of yesterday we decided to head off in the kayak. We launched into the Pambula River from a beach beside another oyster farm and shop, and took off for an explore. It was a stunning morning, remaining still and mirror-like for most of our paddle. We toured down the river, stopping just before it went into Merimbula Bay, close to where we had been hiking last Sunday.

Just over twelve kilometres later we were back at our start point munching on a dozen oysters each. Well deserved this time!

We returned to camp via Pambula’s bakery, a loaf of sourdough, a slice of dairy free cake for me and a piece of cheesecake for Mr A. Highly recommended if you are passing this way.

Upon reaching the caravan we discovered there had been some heavy digging going on in the park, which had caused huge dust clouds of mud to coat absolutely everything! What a nightmare – we had left the windows open for Tassie, and every surface was covered in a layer of brown dust, and poor Tassie’s eyes were streaming. I had some work to catch up on the laptop and Mr A relaxed with a book in the sunshine before we tackled the seemingly endless task of cleaning the caravan. I suspect we will be finding mud dust for days to come. Mr A complained to the park management who refunded our night’s fee by way of an apology. It’s nice to have park owners who care about their reputation, but a shame they didn’t have the foresight to warn their guests to close windows and use air conditioning today.

Tuesday March 6: Another day, another river

Author: Mr A

Location: Kiah & Towamba River

We were determined today to get some paddling done, as the river running past the front of our caravan was the reason I had selected this camp. We headed downstream towards the river mouth, immediately immersing ourselves in the sounds of bell and whipbirds, pied oyster catchers were quietly hunting for morsels and a sea eagle soared overhead. We love paddling for this reason, its so easy to drift quietly along and not scare away the wildlife.There were a few abandoned camps along the river but we didn’t see a soul until we were back at our launch point three hours and 13km later. A couple of fishermen were staring longingly into the water hoping for a bite. The river was really beautiful, winding its way between sandy banks, very little breeze disturbed the mirror like surface.I had read trip reports from people who had been paddling with a kayak guide who runs tours along this stretch, and from those was hoping to see kingfishers. Finally, on the home stretch we saw one. Our waterproof camera sadly doesn’t have a great telephoto so he escaped our lens. trust me he was a beauty, all peachy belly and deep blue back. Not a startling blue one like some we had seen down this coast, but still a lovely sight through my ever present binoculars. My eyesight is shocking, so without them I wouldn’t be seeing much at all!.

Back at camp the lack of people around allowed us let Tas out without her lead, and blimey she was off like a shot, always with a look over her shoulder though to make sure “mum” was close. She even climbed up a couple of trees, not bad for a nearly 14 year old!It really made us smile to see her so happy. It’s so nice to be away from crowded caravan parks, for all of us. We had been a bit tied to them running our car fridge on freezer mode, but gave that up today and switched it back to a fridge so we don’t worry about needing to be on electricity to feed the power hungry battery.

Catherine had some work to do on her Facebook submission so I headed off for quick blast on the bike. Looking at the map the only feasible route I could see avoiding the highway was along somewhere ominously called “The Snake Track”. It turned out to be snake free, but a tough ride up into the hills behind Eden. As it was a fasting day I soon decided it was time to head back to camp as the legs were running out of puff.

Monday 5 March: A birthday by the river

Author: Mrs A

Location: Kiah, NSW

Farewells were our first order of the day as friends Jenny and David, John and Eveliene packed up and headed back north to the rain and Sydney. We were moving on too, South to Kiah, a locality just past Boydtown. We’d read about this bush camp on a property alongside the Towamba River with soft sandy beaches and easy boat launching and thought it would be ideal for a post weekend relax.

We arrived early to find we were the only people there, having the pick of the 10 acre grassland.The water looked perfect for paddling on, being shallow and not too fast moving, but there was a strong southerly breeze which makes it a challenge. We decided to save paddling for tomorrow.All this blog writing had made my iPad keyboard battery run out…or so I thought, so we popped out to the nearest shop for a new one (I later found that it is not the battery, but the Bluetooth capability which has stopped working. Ugh – seems a new keyboard might be required unless any readers know an easy fix?). On the way back we called into Boydtown for a look around.

Boydtown was originally built by Benjamin Boyd in the nineteenth century to act as a service centre for his whaling station. Apparently it was not too successful and eventually cost Ben Boyd his demise as his assets were liquidated to try to pay for it. All that remains today is the Seahorse Inn, now an expensively renovated tavern with landscaped gardens and apparently delicious food. We had a look around before returning to camp.

As the afternoon drew to a close we were invited to join our host as he fed the property’s animals. We hand fed Marino sheep, alpacas, geese, ducks and chickens, I even collected a couple of eggs.We finished off with feeding the peacocks, peahens and a chick before heading back for dinner, armed with the eggs and a bag of fresh spinach from the veggie patch.

We were alcohol free for the evening (think we’ve celebrated enough over the weekend!) but I was allowed the last piece of birthday cake! Thanks for all the kind wishes!

Sunday 4 March: Paddling and hiking around Eden

Author: Mr A

Location: Eden & Ben Boyd National Park

It was a marginal call in the morning whether it would be too windy for kayaking, but we erred on the adventurous side and went anyway. Our friends had singles and launched first headed onto Twofold Bay. Wow, this is a pretty amazing stretch of water framed by beautiful hills in the distance. Soon the wind was picking up though and it was time to hoist the sail.

The rock formations were amazing creating some amazing backdrops for the paddle.In the afternoon we headed off in cars to start a short walk up the coast though coastal forecast in Ben Boyd National Park. The roos were plentiful, the very lawn like grass indicative of a sizeable mob enjoying this grazing. Dolphins even obliged by appearing on cue, as well as an echidna and bush wallabies. A sea eagle soared overhead, while crested terns dived for fish in the bay.This area of coast is one of our favourite spots in Australia. It does get busier every time we come, but there is still leaves plenty of space. We would only have seen half a dozen people on the entire walk.Spending time outdoors in this serene and largely pristine environment is so good for our souls. It’s especially welcome as we mourn the loss of our friend. He’s on my mind a lot of the time, processing thoughts that move from angry to sad in a heartbeat. Our friends provide a welcome distraction, reminding me of the criticality of these relationships to our overall wellbeing.

As our friends were headed off on Monday we celebrated Mrs A’s birthday on Sunday night, with bubbly at the camp and pressures, then off into Eden’s little gem of a restaurant called Drift. Cocktails and craft beers were closely followed by some of the finest oysters we’ve ever eaten, actually harvested right were we had hiked earlier. Mains were pretty good, but the long churro’s and chocolate dipping sauce for desert was eaten in spectacular style, especially by Jenny. However, the video to accompany her licking the sauce off the end of them will not be posted as deemed XXX!

It was brilliant way to end the weekend, good food and wine and lots of laughs with close friends, it doesn’t get better than that.