What we love about travelling in Europe is the the ability to amend our plans on the fly, make decisions at short notice and even change countries – all a great challenge in Australia, where at busy times of the year campgrounds must be booked well in advance (restricting any spontaneity) and as for changing countries…well, that takes both funds and planning, and it would be very hard to take a vehicle.
It was a message from our friend Stefanie pointing out we were only a couple of hours away from her in Bavaria that prompted us into pointing Truffy’s nose north upon leaving Innsbruck and head into Germany. It was a spectacular drive, through mountains and following rivers, through alpine tunnels and past countless castles and fortifications.
Yet another fine view out of our windscreen as we wind through the Zugspitze – part of the Northern Limestone Alps
The language, food and scenery sounded and looked very similar to Austria, but in just over an hour’s driving we arrived in the town of Pfronten.
I would love to say it was some secret knowledge that brought us to this village en route to see Stefanie, but it wasn’t, just a site written up on an app with good reviews – and we really hit the jackpot in terms of location. It turned out that a tavern had added motorhome parking to its car park – thereby increasing customer numbers and earning a side income. It was so much cheaper than we had experienced of late too, a total of €14 (AU$23/£13) for the night including drinking water and electricity.
I sat down with Google maps and plotted out what I hoped might be a good circuit cycle ride, taking in a few sights on the way. The region is literally riddled with cycle and hiking paths, and we had spotted a few castles and lakes on our drive through.
The paths started right at our campground, car-free tracks heading across the countryside, amazing views in all directions.
Five minutes ride from camp and we cannot see another human
Our first point of interest was the castle of Eisenberg, built in 1313. It has been owned by Germans and Austrians, attacked by peasants, built up, renovated and raised to the ground again in its 706 years lifespan.
Castle Eisenberg A commanding position…ensuring peasants all around can be reminded who is in chargeLooking back towards the main castleEnjoying the lookout from the tower
In the 1980s there was significant restoration of the buildings and interesting finds have been stored in a museum in the nearby village of Zell (open at weekends only).
Setting off on another typical pathway towards another amazing view…not too busy either!
We set off next towards Hopfensee, a large lake surrounded by villages and walking tracks, skirting the edge of the lake through the village of Füssen towards another lake, Weissensee. All tracks were off road, cutting through woodland, old farm tracks along fields, or purpose built alongside the busier roads, but felt really safe at all times. There were plenty of other cyclists around, big smiles on their faces, enjoying the sunshine, perfect temperature and stunning scenery after several days of rain and cooler temperatures.
Weissensee Lake – popular for swimming, paddle boarding and fishingLooking over to the lakeside village of OberriedDo these birds appreciate their view? Looking down Weissensee lake from Oberkirch
Our 40km circuit ride finished back at our local tavern for a refreshing beverage. Other than potatoes and vegetables there was nothing on the menu that was dairy-free, so we settled for a beer and glass of Riesling before heading back to Truffy for showers and to cook dinner. An awesome day.
Tuesday: Austria has been a really mixed bag of experiences, from the absolutely brilliant time we spent getting to know local friends, pushing our pedals around through scenery that was just so perfect, driving roads that made us go ooh and ah every few minutes. Yet every so often something happened that took the shine off Austria momentarily.
For instance, we had identified the campsite we wanted to stay at on the edge of Innsbruck and called them to be told “just turn up before 5pm you will have a place”. We turn up at 11am and are told “we are full”… I reiterated what we were told over the phone, so the story then changed to “well we might squeeze you in… it’ll be 35 euros per night (AU$57/£33)”. It was a muddy field with a reception/bar that smelled of unwashed toilets. I looked a little shocked at the price and said I will check with my wife… who just walked in the door at that moment… to hear the receptionist say ” you can just leave if you don’t like the price”… I said the price was high but we can pay it. She said “No! You can just just leave”.
Now this isn’t the first time we have come across this attitude where there is so much demand for camping and so few spaces. Australia has delivered its fair share of surly camp staff, but we’ve never seen such extreme arrogance. Travelling in popular places in high season certainly tests my patience with the way some people seem to relish displaying such rudeness from their position of power.
We left and drove down the road and booked on to a site that was 59 euros a night without flinching because the reception was polite and friendly and explained what we get for our money, which was a luxurious big site, free buses into Innsbruck, and 5 star facilities.
Who drives one of the world’s most expensive cars and parks it at the campground? We can only assume it is the owner!
So a bus into town and we are soon exploring Innsbruck, and what a lovely setting it’s in, nestled between soaring peaks.
A colourful city, feeling authenticTourists, business people and students fill the streetsThe Goldenes Dachl (Golden Roof) – considered the symbol of Innsbruck – completed in 1500We arrive just as the rain disappearedLittle lanes in the Innsbruck medieval old townThe sunshine bringing people outside
Catherine headed off to the imperial palace while I wandered the shops.
The imperial palace, completed in the year 1500In 1765, the emperor died of a heart attack in this room, during the 14 day celebration of his son’s wedding. His wife turned it in to a chapel of mourning in his memoryA magnificent room ‘The Family Room’ decorated by artists using the family members as characters in the artworks… carefully restored in recent times….photography is forbidden apparently….…as is seen by the man doing the YMCA movements in the background coming to tell Mrs A off…oops….The Triumphal Arch – commissioned in 1765 to celebrate the wedding, was redesigned to have one side dedicated to mourning the death of the emperorThe bridge over the River Inn…a picturesque citySuch a treat! A delicious fish curry and lentils with BYO wine
We met back up to catch the bus home and I managed to fall down a step, scraping skin and denting pride. Then we got on the wrong bus back to our camp in the rush, and it was pouring of rain. When we realised our mistake we told the driver, and guess what, he dropped us off and called a taxi for us! Now how about that for service.
Bus drivers even wear ties in Austria
Mind you any positive thoughts about the bus company were then dissipated when we waited nearly two hours the next morning for a bus that never turned up, and the company said it had no idea where it was! I mean..really…
Wednesday: Eventually we made it back into town and headed up a series of cable cars that popped us out up in the mountains at over 2,300 metres.
At the first level – top of the funicular railwayAt level three, the top of the mountains, 2,300 metres above sea level, the Karwendel Nature Park behind Mrs AIt’s rather fresh at 2,300 metres up and the air noticeably thinnerAdmiring a bird’s eye view over Innsbruck and the surrounding mountains
A fabulous view, and a quick bit of lunch, in what was billed as a culinary masterpiece.
At Restaurant Seegrube, guests can enjoy traditional delicacies and culinary delights that leave nothing to be desired.
I know some of our followers will be physically shuddering at the sight of this culinary delight!
A frankfurter in a dry bun with some pickle didn’t really quality for that level of praise in my mind. We’ve had one lovely traditional dining experience in Austria here with our friend Maayke, but really that’s it. We did discover some wines though we really liked, and wished we could have found somewhere to try more.
Austria you have been a mixed bag…scenically amazing…cycling heaven…met some fabulous people, but not been the best experience as a customer in high season. We always knew August was going to be a challenge though and it likely would be the same in any country. I guess it could have been a lot worse. We’ve been enjoying cool weather and always found somewhere to camp…at eye watering prices compared to everywhere else in Europe, with the UK a close second!
After the quiet of the past few days it surprised us how busy the traffic was this morning in the Zillertal Valley, the sounds of lorries, motorbikes and cars echoing loudly from the early hours. After a cup of tea, we set up the bikes and headed off for the day.
We picked up things for a picnic from a nearby supermarket and followed the valley until we reached the Inn River. This is the river which gives Innsbruck its name (brücke means bridge in German). It may not look so in the photos, but the river is known as ‘the green river’ due to the particles of limestone which reflect the light from the sun.
Fields of sweet corn line the pathway, overlooked by mountains
Alongside the river is the Inn River Cycleway which runs 520km from the river’s source in Swizerland, through the Tirol region of Austria and finishing up in Germany. We were doing a short section of the river ride to make up a 65km return trip from camp.
The first castle of our morning, Schloss Matzen, looking like a fairytale palace
Our destination for the day was Austria’s smallest town, the medieval settlement of Rattenberg. The town has just 400 permanent residents but that is substantially bolstered by visitors – long distance cyclists, people on day rides like us and day trippers. It’s famous for its well preserved medieval buildings as well as the craft of glass blowing – there are several shops there.
The ride was just lovely – the river route is set up for ebikers and manual cyclists alike, with several break areas offering charging facilities, picnic tables, water, and inner-tube vending machines. The route is very gently undulating – we barely moved off the ‘eco’ setting on our bikes all day.
It’s an interesting route too, with little chapels, castles and villages dotting the landscape as we rode, giving the opportunity for a change of scenery or a break at any stage.
Rattenberg sits in the shadow of Rat Mountain and receives no sunlight for much of the winterMr A riding along an apple tree lined pathwayCrossing the fast moving waters of the Inn River
We rode through the cobbled streets of Rattenberg, evidence of its medieval history evident on every corner.
Colourful houses with coats of armsUnknown story told in art on a street corner
We saw a steep lane way leading up to the castle and powered on up for a look.
The castle these days is used as an outdoor theatre
The views from the castle ruins are fabulous. This building dates back to the 10th century and only one tower remains today.
Looking out over the town towards the river and mountainsThe one remaining building, the Bienerturm Tower – named after Chancellor Biener who was beheaded thereA couple of happy cyclists
We enjoyed a drink in a cafe in the town square, before heading back to camp. Well worth a look around if you’re in the area, especially if you’re on two wheels!
Neither of us had ever been to Salzburg, so with no expectations we caught the bus in to the city, via Mrs A getting a hair cut, and me getting passed Prosecco at regular intervals while waiting. A man can drink a lot of that stuff in nearly three hours.
A beautiful evening for a stroll along the Salzach RiverOur first view of Fortress Hohensalzburg, the magnificent castle overlooking the city The late afternoon sun shining through the water on the 16th century Residence Fountain in Residenzplatz Square
The city immediately dazzled us even with the low cloud hiding the tops of the mountains that surround the city. A wander round revealed a baroque lovers dream, so beautifully restored after being pretty much razed to the ground during World War 2.
Refreshing sprinkles from the fountainMr A is spat on by a horseMeanwhile real horses wait for tourists to hire them to trot them on a tour of the streetsA grand entrance to Cathedral squareA fountain depicts Hercules fighting a dragon.White buildings and green roofs dominate the cityA lovely atmosphere as we amble through the city’s many squares…this one boasting a statue of Mozart, complete with a string quartet busking…and doing quite well!Strolling the cobbled streets to find some fine wineTwo glasses of Weingut Elizabeth Aurora 2015…very approachable…
We visited a wine bar where the waiters knew nothing about the wine they were recommending, and then ate a traditional Austrian dish from the menu of a random place I picked. Worst meal of the whole trip. In fact one of the worst meals I ever remember eating. Just a huge plate of pork, roast potatoes, a dumpling and some coleslaw. Not a single flavoursome part to it. Ah well…might be skipping meat for a while as it has put me right off!
Finishing off our evening with a stroll around the shopping streets, blissfully quiet as they are mostly pedestrianised (bikes allowed)
Today we had arranged to get our bikes serviced, so we rode over to the shop from our campsite, dropped them off and hit the sights again, this time going up to Fortress Hohensalzburg, the castle that sits perched overlooking the city.
A cool grey day, but the city still looks lovely from up at the fortressThe old fortified walls still remain in some parts of the city – visible in the wooded area opposite
We did the whole audio tour and are so glad we did. It revealed a fascinating tale of religious and secular power being so closely wed and of course exploiting the masses. Those masses rose up during the German Peasants’ War in 1525, when a group of miners, farmers and townspeople tried to oust Prince-Archbishop Matthäus Lang, fed up with their lot watching the rich getting richer and they barely fed.
Each archbishop had a coat of arms displayed on their specific amendments to the castle…this one had a turnip to reflect his family’s landowner statusSitting at an altitude of 506 metres the cannons could shoot balls a substantial distance
History has a way of repeating itself and the current trend towards the concentration of money into ever fewer hands should be heeded. Australia for instance just had a near 10% rise in those living under the poverty line.
So the peasants were put down, and the archbishops continued to fortify against further threats, both domestic and international. They clearly commissioned well as there is no record of the castle having ever been breached. It was surrendered though on one occasion….to Napoleon. Well if you were going to surrender to anyone it probably should be him.
Now, that’s a pile of cannon balls….!The benefit of getting to the castle early – avoiding the crowdsStop us taking photos of the view, please!The magnificent living quarters which house the museumGlimmers of medieval history Back down in the city, St Peter’s Monastery, cemetery and catacombs The catacombs date back to 1178…fans of The Sound of Music may recognise this…Bikes galore throughout the town
Our stomachs finally having recovered enough from our meal last night, it was off to my favourite food franchise…Nordsee!
Celebration!
They sell raw and smoked seafood, including my all time favourite thing in a bun – herrings and onions! Yum…Catherine joined as her Fear-Of-Missing-Out syndrome predictably kicked in. None too impressed, I was tasked with finding her a non-dairy hot chocolate. No easy task in this country let me tell you. In fact I failed, most cafe staff just looked at me horrified and I scuttled off. A pot of herbal tea had to suffice, although in my favour a vegan apple strudel was eventually located.
The rain threatened once again so we headed back to collect our bikes. A good job done by the shop. I think given the high level of cycling participation in the city it seems to breed a better standard of bike care. We now even have wing mirrors to stop having to crane round to see if the other is still in pursuit.
The rain thundered down and what is a couple supposed to do with time on their hands? Correct….Thank goodness for the BBC and its iPlayer providing the entertainment we needed to pass a wet afternoon in the 2 square metres of living space we are proud to call home.
Location: Moosham Castle, Unternberg and Altenmarkt im Pongau, Austria
As we departed from Murau the cloud dropped, hiding all the views we had enjoyed over the past couple of days. Along with the cloud, the rain soon started, and instead of temperatures in the mid 20s, the day struggled to top out at 18°C. This is the coolest weather we have had since the east coast of Italy, back in May.
We drove east about 40 minutes, pulling up at a castle I had read about – Castle Moosham (Schloss Moosham).
Looking grand up on the hillsideBuilt in the 1100s, Castle Moosham sits high up on a hillTruffy’s first visit to a castle
The castle had exchanged hands many times over its 900 year lifespan, and was purchased by Count Hans Nepomuk Wilczek in 1886. He was a great collector of antiques, and made it his life’s work to restore the building and to furnish it as a museum. He was an important figure in Austrian history, a researcher funding expeditions to the North Pole among other achievements. He built another castle near Vienna, Kreuzenstein Castle, in order to house his art collection in the 1800s.
His grandson Alexander was the tour guide for my visit (which I enjoyed while Mark chilled out with a cuppa soup and a good book!). His father (Count Hans Heinrich Wilczek) spent much of his childhood growing up in this castle, and now owns this and the castle near Vienna. Our guide lives in another castle nearby…hah we have our camper, who needs a castle?
I was not allowed to take photos inside, which was full of antiques, artwork and collectables from as far back as the 15th century. Alexander was particularly proud of portraits of famous Austrians such as Mozart, as well as extensive collections of suits of armour, weapons, prints and ancient texts in a library.
A fifty metre deep well is the centrepiece to the castle courtyard
This castle has featured in a number of documentaries, boasting to be one of the most haunted castles in all of Europe. It certainly has a gruesome history to go with it.
The history dates back to Roman settlement, where a fort was built at this location. There are a few relics left from Roman times – bits of pillar here and there, stones reused in walls, a tombstone encompassed into a wall.
During a period of 228 years ( between 1534 and 1762) , this castle was the location of 66 executions, of which 44 were attributed to persons accused of sorcery and witchcraft. The dungeons were cold and dark, and full of torture implements – collected from the world over as well as Austrian.
You can almost imagine having to await trial in these cages, terrified for your fate
Tour over, I rejoined Mr A and we continued to our next destination, Altenmarkt im Pongau. About 70km south of Salzburg, it was a random selection on the map, with somewhere to camp which had space! There are many places we have been recommended, but with overflowing campgrounds, bad reviews, and a minimum of three or four nights’ booking, we chose to avoid them this time. The issue with travelling in peak season, I guess.
The rain closed in, and we bunkered down for the afternoon, enjoying the cooler temperatures and an excuse to not do anything for once!
Monday morning dawned drizzling and grey, so we set about trying to find some storage for Truffy between November and March when we’ll be heading to Australia. It seems every single place in the south-east of England (we’re talking Brighton to Milton Keynes here, so quite a big chunk of country!) is fully booked out! One place said they had one space for us, but we would have to start paying the monthly fee immediately to secure it.
Feeling dejected, we put on our rain coats and decided to walk into town for some fresh air.
The cloud hanging low over the hills…it’s hard to believe this is a ski resort!
We got into town at midday, just as most of the shops were closing for a two plus hour break! The town was busy with people walking around, trying door handles, clearly with money burning a hole in their pockets, but unable to spend it.
The Roman Catholic Church, Maria Gebert can be seen for miles, particularly the golden cross on top of the spireCloisters opposite the church offer a peaceful respite from the rain
We enjoyed a hot chocolate in a local cafe, before having an amble around some of the shops which opened earlier than others. The early bird catches the worm as they say, and those shops which decided not to close, or opened sooner than others got our valuable euros.
The town predominantly lives for the winter season, servicing the Ski Amade ski area. Many of the shops sell hiking and skiing gear – Mr A’s favourite stores – he left with two tee-shirts and a pair of shorts. A successful visit!
We had driven past Lake Bled on our way to Bohinj and it looked lovely, but totally booked out in terms of camping opportunities. We could have done a day trip, but were really keen to see it in depth, so instead booked a hotel room for a couple of nights.
We selected the Grand Hotel Toplice, one of the oldest and most spectacular hotels on the lake’s edge, with fabulous view across to Bled Castle and Bled Island. We have our 17 year wedding anniversary coming up next month and I will be in London for my next hospital appointment, meaning we won’t be together. So, what better excuse for a few days of luxury?
Breakfast at the hotel was an event in iteself, with the best spread of food either of us have seen in many years of staying in hotels.
Delicious breakfast of poached egg with avocado and salmon, with an amazing view
DIY museli with fresh nuts, seeds and fruit, cold meats and juices, cooked eggs, sausages and vegetables, cakes, buns and yoghurts – the choice was endless and meant there was no need for lunch! All this while sat on a balcony with arguably one of the best views in the world.
We set off after breakfast to Bled Island on which stands the Church of the Mother of God, Mr A valiantly rowing us over in a wooden boat.
Getting a post breakfast workoutLady muck
No motorised boats are allowed on the lake, keeping it serene. The church date back to the introduction of Christianity in this area (the year 745), with many adjustments over the years – mostly in the mid 1400s. Before this, there was a temple on the island dedicated to the Slavic goddess of love, Ziva.
Traditionally the groom has to carry the bride up these 99 steps before they can marry at the church!Looking back towards Bled CastleThe church as we approach the islandA shoal of fish under one of the rowing boatsVery fit rowers paddle boatloads of people to the island all day long
Humans have been settled in this area since the Stone Age, with numerous artefacts found and displayed in the Castle, which we walked up to on our return from the island. There we enjoyed more amazing views, and saw our first little Slovenian red squirrel.
A well deserved shady break after the climb upImpossible to do these views any justice…looking down towards Bled IslandBreathtaking…but breathing well (still hobbling with injured toes though)Looking east towards the Karawanks…some big hikes through here
After an hour or so enjoying the hotel’s spa we went back to the room to get ready for dinner…Mr A decided to see whether we could get an upgrade. Well, he was very successful – managing to get us room 501, the best lake view room in the hotel!
A room with a view – cheers! 17 years of marriage coming up on 16 August…Our hotel and new room as seen from the opposite shore, beneath the castleYet another photo of our ever changing view to the castle and island
Truffy was parked nearby so we picked up a bottle from our champagne stocks and cracked it open to celebrate with a glass of bubbles before going to dinner.
Dinner was at Restaurant Sova, which we had booked because of its fabulous reputation for both modern and delicious Slovenian food as well as having a wide selection of local wines and highly trained sommeliers. We were not disappointed.
Delicious local wines sampledThey allowed us to split a glass into two glasses to widen the sample tastedWe enjoyed a bottle of the middle wine – Starà Brajda Old Vineyard Red 2015Food was amazing too – this seafood risotto with a scallop with champagne foamMr A enjoyed a pasta with cheese and truffles
Our evening finished off with a free live concert as part of the ‘Taste Bled’ weekend event. A great band called Lumberjack entertained us with covers from Kings of Leon, Lenny Kravitz and Dire Straits among others, before a ‘famous in Slovenia’ band headlined playing their own music (which was great for the locals especially). A perfect end to a perfect celebration!
After sunset – the view out towards Bled Island, the church all lit upThe castle floodlights stay alight all nightThe twinkling lights of the township
I really did not expect to like Lake Bled as much as I have done. After Lake Bohinj, seeing big hotels, restaurants and a casino it all felt a little commercial. But in reality it has been far from it. The local people have been so friendly and welcoming, the hotel staff excellent, and everyone clearly loves Slovenia and is full of recommendations of what to see next. It has been more like being welcomed into a small town. This area will always have a place in our hearts.
Sunrise this morning
It’s so hard not keep looking at this ever changing scene, the chiming of church bells around the water (especially now as I write on Sunday morning, calling people to service). With a late checkout today I think we will treat ourselves to this view just a little bit longer before we jump back into our camper and continue our journey in Slovenia.
We found a place to park Truffy and wandered into Slovenia’s capital city – all very easy as it’s so dinky! The vibe was just so good.
We climbed up to its centrepiece, the magnificent castle.
Our first sight of the castle walls as we climb up Mrs A relishing every single easy breathLooking down to where we started…great views all the way
We did the whole Ljubljana Castle tour with audio sets and it was so worth it. From the unique artefacts showcased in the museum (including a 5,000 year old Celtic vase), to the description of its turbulent history as it suffered the onslaught of the mighty Ottoman Empire – at one stage only 100 miles from its doorstep, to the beautiful entertaining spaces that have been created inside the old castle walls and are a hub for modern day culture in Slovenia.
An art exhibition space in what used to be artiilery storageRestored rooms with colourful storiesOn climbing to the highest tower, amazing views over the city and beyondLooking into the castle groundsYou can see a third of Slovenia from the top of this towerSpiral staircases – wisely providing separate staircases for up and downNow that’s what I call a wine fridge…or two…
Really the only parts of its history not covered was that during the Second World World War it served as an Italian prison (was that a deliberate omission? I don’t really understand the unwritten rules around what’s not spoken about in a tourist context). Then right up until the 1960s the castle was used as overspill city housing for the poor.
Imagine calling this your home…One solid building
A short ride down on the funicular railway and it was time for lunch. We seem to have slipped unconsciously into that Mediterranean pattern of no breakfast (well we substitute tea for their coffee), then lunch as our main meal and a snack at night. I think Catherine’s missing her creative time in the kitchen!
Water is a key feature in the city with the Ljubljanica River forking off and looping around, creating an islandOur seafood restaurant with a viewA tasty Chardonnay for Mrs A – we are rather appreciating Slovenian wine after the desert of Croatia
We had a lovely meal by the river at a fish cafe, then wandered around the lovely streets filled with interesting shops, cyclists and happy smiley folk! What a great vibe…a city we would call at first glance like this very liveable.
A colourful cityBustling with outdoor dining
In fact it’s the most likeable capital city we have seen so far on our travel based on our criteria – easy to get around by bike, waterways and green spaces everywhere, loads of food and wine choice, easy access to the mountains.
At just over 20,000 square kilometres, the country of Slovenia is a good deal smaller than Australia’s largest cattle station (Anna Creek in South Australia at 23,600km²), so its major tourist attractions are apparently heaving …we will find out tomorrow!
We capped off the day with a sunset cycleThe bridge of dragonsDragons do indeed live here…
Location: Kostanjevica na Krki and Dolenjske Toplice, Slovenia
Saturday: After nearly four weeks travelling around Croatia we crossed the border into Slovenia this morning. A quick showing of passports and we were into new territory, and back in the European Union. Having lived in Australia for so many years crossing borders still feels bizarre to us – the concept that you can drive a few metres and there is a whole new culture and language. Thankfully our basic Croatian language learning of ‘thank you’ and ‘good day’ are exactly the same in Slovenia, so if nothing else we can be slightly polite, if largely ignorant!
Waiting our turn for passport checks…
Once over the border we continued on to the little settlement of Kostanjevica na Krki. Mark was earning his brownie points having found an old monastery which had been completely renovated and turned into a sculpture park and art gallery – an absolute culture hit, really not his style, but totally mine! Thank you Mr A, brownie points stored.
The centre of the settlement of Kostanjevica na Krki sits on an island in the middle of the Krka River.
Mirror perfection on the Krka RiverBeautiful displays of flowers throughout Kostanjevica na KrkiClearly a lot of pride in how their town looks – perfectly painted homes and not a single scrap of rubbish or leaf litter anywhere
You would be forgiven for thinking the Krka river becomes Krka falls in Croatia, the beautiful national park we visited a few days ago, but no, this river flows entirely within Slovenia, and is in fact the second longest in the country.
We continued to the Kostanjevica na Krki monastery.
The monastery and sculpture garden. All sculptures here are made from oak, and with recognition they slowly degrade in the elements, three are replaced every three yearsOne of many sculptures in the grounds
The Cistercian monasterywas built in 1234 and was lived in by practicing monks until the abolition of monasteries in Slovenia in 1786. In the early 1800s all the furnishings were sold off, and the complex slowly fell into ruin.
A grand entrance to the monastery
Throughout the 1900s it has gradually been restored and renovated, the bulk of the work conducted post WWII, and today it is in perfect condition. Today there is nothing religious about the buildings, even the chapel, with all rooms given over to hosting the Božidar Jakac Art Museum and the Forma Viva Open Air Wood Sculpture Collection. The complex has been declared a cultural monument of state importance.
The chapel – today used for weddings and art exhibitionsIt really is a lovely space, fresh and modern while embracing the historyFlowers adorn every archway on each of the three floors
I explored the complex with an exhibition showcasing medieval fragments from the old building and telling the story (in Slovenian and English) of the renovation and the work involved. From there, I enjoyed artworks from several important Slovenian artists and some temporary exhibitions. It is an incredible space for showcasing art, and all the more powerful for being just me there most of the time. Time just flew.
Incredible sculptures which physically moved youArtwork picturing somewhat sinister storiesBeautiful immaculate exhibition spacesSculptures you wanted to quiz the artist about, like this dancer and bullModern bronzes in a historical spaceA temporary exhibition inspired by bark beetlesAnd yes, even a cat!
Invigorated, I went back to meet Mark, who was relaxed, reading in the picturesque car park and we headed off for our next destination. As we drove, the sunny sky disappeared and the clouds began to darken.
Dramatic weather ahead…an ominous view through our windscreen…
We diverted off the main road to see a castle (now expensive hotel) on another island in the Krka River.
Otočec Castle – dating to 1252
There was just enough time for a quick photo of the beautiful building reflecting in the river before the first crack of lightning and boom of thunder split the silence and we retreated to find our camp, a further 20km away near the settlement of Dolenjske Toplice.
The storm raged for about an hour, with incredibly heavy rain, almost deafening on Truffy’s roof. Early evening it abated, and we emerged to go for a walk to see where we were staying.
We followed a woodland pathway into the small town. It’s famous for its hot springs and attracts a number of German tourists it seems. We had a little look around before returning to camp as the sun set.
The Krka River near to where we are campedApples dripping in rain along the roadsideDolenjske TopliceSunset on our forest walk backAnd the sun goes down on our first night in Slovenia
Sunday: Blue skies greeted us as we awoke so we decided a bike ride would be on the cards. A little research online revealed a mostly off-road and on quiet lanes ride along the river to the settlement of Novo Mesto. We decided to investigate.
Beautiful lanes along flower laden meadows
We found the pathway and followed it along the river – beautiful little agricultural villages, fields of corn, wheat, strawberries, pumpkins, tomatoes….mostly small scale, local workers.
The RIver Krka our constant companionBeautiful barns, the detail in the woodwork is gorgeous Mr A heads off towards the next villageStill some puddles from yesterday’s downpourThe river is full of fishWe find a riverside restaurant full of cyclists upon reaching Novo MestroMr A samples chicken breast with a dumpling stuffed with cottage cheeseRibs for Mrs AAnd a glass of Slovenian red house wine – surprisingly drinkableYup, that river again!Storm clouds are rolling in again over Novo Mestro
We had a fabulous ride, around 35km (22 miles) all up, and felt we got a real taste for Slovenian life in this part of the country. Despite being only about 60km from the Croatian border, Slovenia feels quite different.
Thursday: We took advantage of the cooler, mid twenties weather and leapt on our bikes to explore one of the many rides signposted around the small town of Samobor, to the west of Croatia’s capital Zagreb. The area does a good job of branding itself as a gourmet weekend destination for the weary city dwellers nearby. No evidence of them on a Thursday and it was beautifully quiet.
Market day looks vibrant in colour but is quite empty on this morning The Gradna river winds its way gently through townSamobor Castle peeks over the trees above the town. It dates back to 1260
Firstly though it was a visit to the doctor for an annoying blocked ear. This would be the second time I had visited a doctor in Croatia and both times had been seen immediately with no appointment.
The first time I saw a private doctor in an immaculate surgery, and paid the same as I would in Australia, the gap between what the government thinks a doctor should charge and what they actually need to charge. On this second occasion there was no private doctor so I was sent to an “emergency” facility, again top notch, well presented facilities with super friendly staff. I paid the equivalent of £1 (AU$2).
I contrast this not only with my experience at home in Australia but the miserable task of getting to see a doctor in the UK. I was told to turn up the next morning and “expect to wait around 3 hours”, or have an appointment in several weeks’ time! No wonder the UK’s life expectancy rates are declining and the infant mortality rates increasing. The country is bursting at its narrow seams with people and just not coping…in my opinion.
So on with our ride with hearing restored. Bucolic scenes were everywhere, the rich soil and climate enabling small allotments being tended by stooped figures.
Beautiful scenery and comfortable riding temperaturesRiding alongside the Sava River, watching a car ferry cruise acrossSweet corn fields backed by the Žumberak and Samobor Mountains
We took it all in and enjoyed the fresh climate and green space after the stifling heat and endless concrete developments on the coast.
Having cycled 45km (29 miles) we had worked up an appetite and headed for lunch at a family run restaurant recommended by our campsite host.
Wild mushroom soup for one!
Mushroom soup, containing 15 different types of this locally picked delicacy, was followed by shared plates of a delicious mushroom risotto and fresh asparagus with scrambled eggs.
I think this was the best lunch we’ve enjoyed since we have been in Croatia. Immediately you can taste the freshness of local produce, something we have been missing in the tourist spots on the coast.
Friday: The next day we took a bus and tram into Zagreb. I’m sad to say we were completely underwhelmed by this capital city. We just didn’t find much to really get excited about.
Zagreb has a daily market selling fresh fruit and vegetables, cheeses and a few trinketsThe twin towered cathedral looms over the townA dramatic looking water feature
We walked up to the Upper Town, the old Zagreb. There Catherine wandered into St Marks church.
Its colourful tiled roof, constructed in 1880, has the medieval coat of arms of Croatia, Dalmatia and Slavonia on the left side, and the emblem of Zagreb on the right. The 14th century Gothic portal
Many frescoes in the interior
One of the prettiest churches
The gold on the ceiling is quite striking
I have decided to stay out of churches as a silent protest to institutional religion. While I waited, I was told off by a policeman with a gun for sitting on the steps of some official looking building.
Not dissimilar to the man with the gun….
We thought we would try the National Natural History Museum. Disappointingly there was no English signage at all meaning we learnt nothing… apparently it’s due a big makeover in 6 months – at least our ticket donations will go to a good cause, it is in dire need!
A courtyard full of sculptures in the old townOf course we were met by a couple of feline localsCatherine looking for a restaurant with good reviews and no smoke…challenging
Then we started the long painful process of finding somewhere to eat where cigarettes weren’t going to be waved in our face and the menu featured some thing a little fresh and interesting. Finally we found a lovely little cafe in the leafy grounds of the Museum of Archaeology.
Resplendent after a huge beef and egg saladCatherine about to explore some of the old pillars and statues in the groundsParasols make fabulous shades in nearby Park ZrinjevacPark ZrinjevacBeautiful flowers outside the Croatian Academy of Sciences and ArtsHeadaches at the Bank of Zagreb?
We were ready to leave mid afternoon, the first capital city we have ever run out of motivation to explore that quickly.
The electric tram which took us back to the bus station – keeps fumes out of the city centre
So it’s back to our lovely camp ground in the country and a snooze!
Location: Sokorlarski Raptor Centre and Zadar, Croatia
Tuesday: Departing camp in the morning, we headed to the Sokolarski Raptor Centre, just a fifteen minute drive from where we were staying. The centre is completely run by volunteers and funded with donations and visitors like us.
They are the only centre in Croatia which is set up to rescue birds of prey, restore them to health and release them – or in the case where they cannot be released (eg they are with humans too long) then they care for them lifelong. Injuring a bird of prey in Croatia is punishable by imprisonment, so they also are responsible for being the CSI of the bird world, identifying what or who may have killed a bird.
It wasn’t long before a keeper’s talk began. It is clear that everyone working here is passionate about the birds they are caring for, and educating people about them.
The talk was conducted in English – this guy endearingly called as all ‘darlinks’
We were first introduced to the largest owl in the world, the Eurasian Eagle Owl. This female had been hand reared from a chick, so could never be released back into the wild.
Eurasian Eagle Owl – those claws can grip 50kg of pressure per square millimetre – she could easily take down a young deer for example.
A volunteer was sought to demonstrate some particular characteristics…and of course one is found….
I am introduced to our feathery friendHeads are apparently not threatening compared to hands – her feathers are as soft as silk, helping her fly silently As a thank you for my time I am allowed an Eagle Owl hat for a few moments!
The Eagle Owl population is now stable throughout all European countries, other than the British Isles where they are making a gradual comeback after being absent for around 200 years.
Fun Eagle Owl Fact
Owls eyes are not light sensitive – so if you shine a light into them the pupils will not change size…instead, when their pupils are large, they are seeing in macro, observing everything right in front of them. When their pupils shrink down, they are seeing things in the distance, like a pair of incredibly powerful binoculars. Eagle Owls can see a mouse move 8km (5 miles) away!
Having done her bit demonstrating the beauty of her species, she is fed a chick, which she sucks up like spaghetti…
Going, going, gone…no place for queasiness in nature…
The Centre also cares for several Harris’ Hawks, all bred in captivity. These are usually native in South America and southwest USA, but did a good job of demonstrating bird flight and the reason they do not fly away when allowed freedom. Again a volunteer was required…
She spots lunch in my hand and flies down to munchLess than half a kilo of bird here Wouldn’t want to mess with that beak thoughShe has an easy life here, food provided and an hour of flight time per day
Just beautiful birds. Did you know that Velcro is modelled on birds feathers? Or that keratin in shampoo (that makes your hair shine) is made from chicken feathers? Or that spoilers on the back of cars are modelled from hawk tails in flight? There are so many inventions direct from birds…
We had a look around some of the other raptors being cared for there, before heading back to Truffy and pointing north.
Our destination for the day was Zadar, a town on the coast about 160km north of Split. Once parked up at a very ordinary campground (basically crammed cheek by jowl in someone’s back garden with water access) we jumped on the bikes and cycled 10km into town.
Mark enters through one of the original gateways
Zadar traces its origins back to the 9th century BCE, with evidence of Stone Age habitation around the area. The Romans settled there in the the year 49 BCE. Today the town has extended from its original walls, but much of the historical centre is still there, with a rich variety of archaeological museums and Roman history visible throughout.
It was not a picturesque cycle, riding through derelict ports and long abandoned industrial areas, but before long we were riding across a bridge over the harbour and into the old town. Like many old towns we have visited, the streets are polished with centuries of feet, and Zadar old town is quite pretty. It was listed by UNESCO in their world heritage list in 2017.
Grand old buildings from the 1500sA fine combination of old and new
We rode through the town, past old pillars, remnants of ancient Roman palaces combined with modern shops, cafes and ice cream stores. Every corner revealed more layers of history with current day use.
We wound our way to the waterfront with views out to the island of Ugljan, the sky darkening and flashing with an approaching storm. On the waterfront there is a sea organ, chiming out sounds ethereally with each ebb of the water.
Looking out to Ugljan Island – wondering whether the storm is heading our wayPeople sit on the steps enjoying the organ sounds
From there, we found ourselves at the Forum, a large square full of Roman remains. Among the ruins of temples and colonnades stands one intact Roman column, which in the Middle Ages served as a shame post where wrongdoers were chained and publicly humiliated. Many of the other ruins have been used throughout the centuries as foundations for churches and other grand buildings, historical in their own right.
Mark rides past the shame postMr A discovers his name….almost….
Looking down at St. Anastasia Cathedral and The Forum
Mark decided to find a seat at one of the many cafés surrounding the Forum while I climbed the 12th century St Anastasia bell tower for a birds eye view of Zadar. I felt rather chuffed that at the top of the 180 spiral stairs I was not even out of breath, unlike most of the visitors reaching the top…and just a week post surgery. Breathing is so under rated!
180 steps up to the top of the tower, past green brass bells….Fabulous views from the top of the towerI wonder whether these churches were purposely aligned…Looking into the centre of town and the busy shopping stripLooking west towards the marina and the newer town
The dark clouds got closer and closer, and before long the first drops of rain fell. We relished the cooler temperature, taking the edge of the 35 degree day, but decided it might be wise to cycle back the 10km to camp before it got worse.
First rain drops falling send us back to camp
Wednesday: The thunder, lightning and torrential rain raged all night, and we awoke to much more comfortable temperatures. We decided we had spent enough time on Croatia’s coast and set off inland.
The morning was cool, showery and windy, so a perfect day for driving as we pointed east and drove towards the hills.
Very new scenery for us, heading into the Dinaric Alps towards Zagreb on the E65
We took our time driving, stopping for lunch and an afternoon nap (still a bit tired from the general anaesthetic last week, and Mr A wasn’t complaining either!), eventually arriving late afternoon at Camp Vugec Plac, just outside the town of Samobor, west of Croatia’s capital, Zagreb.
What a contrast to yesterday’s scruffy parking lot! This is a brand new camp with hotel quality bathrooms and showers, and parking on lush mowed lawns, surrounded by beautiful countryside. There is even a lovely looking pool.
A travelling bedsit with a view…ready for a cooler night’s sleepThe pool, oh so quiet….
We got set up and then sat down with a glass of Italian wine, enjoying the evening sunshine and birdsong. This is more like it, this is exactly why we travel.
