23-29 December: Christmas week round-up

Author: Mrs A

Location: Bay of Plenty, New Zealand

It’s been a fabulous week with family and friends, meeting neighbours and getting tips and hints for future travels. We have also managed to catch up with friends from Sydney into the bargain, with a couple of lunches enjoyed.

Mr A and I have done some more paddling and hiking throughout the last week, making the most of the weather, which has been typical New Zealand (rain-sun-rain-sun!).

We had a great paddle up the nearby Waipapa River, timing it perfectly with the tides helping us in and out on our trip.

Heading off across the glassy bay
Mr A heading up the river
Enjoying an apple for breakfast in the pouring rain
Mr & Mrs and the bumper boats

Christmas Day was glorious, with a delicious family dinner and an afternoon walk to work it off.

Christmas cheers around the tree
A Tui drinking nectar on the flowers
Stormy skies over the Kaimai Range
A king tide brings the water up onto the reserve…the low lying house owners would have been nervous
Rowing boats waiting to take owners out to the sail boats
“I saw three ships not sailing by…on Christmas Day in the morning….”

On Boxing Day we caught up with friends in the morning, and spent an afternoon walking in the Kaimai Range, not far from Omokoroa:

Seconds from the car you enter lush forest
Heading off down a path
Boardwalks help avoid much of the boggy mud…
Not all the streams have bridges though

On Thursday, stepbrother Simon, Sue’s eldest son, came to visit, bringing wine and gifts. A delicious family brunch was followed by a short walk.

A fan-tail chases flies as we walk through the woods
Summer berries in the hedgerow
A peaceful paradise along Omokoroa beach
A pair of eagle rays entertain us as they hunt in the shallows
Never tire of these views!

Friday saw us heading about an hour’s drive north up to Karangahake Gorge to catch up with friends Sara and Barny who were passing through on their Christmas holiday. After a pub lunch we went for a short walk to some waterfalls, and then a circuit walk through the gorge:

Owharoa Falls – known as bridal-veil falls for their perfect distribution of water
Sara, Barny and team Anderson enjoying the refreshing spray from the water
The roaring Ohinemuri River
The path is pretty narrow here – attention required!
A beautiful short walk before we farewelled Sara and Barny on their way up the Coromandel

We’ve really enjoyed exploring this area, but will be ready to head off a little further afield next week, packing up our tent (and hopefully no punctured mattresses!) to explore some more.

We hope you had a lovely week, whether you celebrate Christmas or whether you just took the opportunity to spend some quality time with friends and family. Seasons greetings from us both!

20-22 December: Continuing our exploration of the Bay of Plenty

Author: Mrs A

Location: Bay of Plenty, New Zealand North Island

Thursday morning reminded us why New Zealand is so lush and green, with the heavens opening as we awoke. Fortunately we were prepared for inclement weather and had planned a day that didn’t require sunshine. It began with a pedicure for me, while Mr A did a little shopping, and then we headed to Mount Manganui.

Driving around this area is a slow process, with one main road heading down the coast and an ever increasing population as people move out of Auckland to the coast. We’re getting used to Google Maps telling us there is a ‘6-15 minute delay’ on every route we take!

We enjoyed lunch in Mount Manganui, one of the more civilised areas nearby, with a choice of shops and eateries. It’s one of the ports cruise ships call into when travelling down the coast. It’s such a shame more has not been made of the waterways in terms of public transport – we’d love to just jump on a passenger ferry across from Omokoroa to here, but no, the only access is via road.

The rain disappeared once we returned back to dad’s and we headed back down to the bay for a walk. Sorry if we are repeating ourselves photographically but the scenery is so lovely!

Late afternoon sunshine – this is around 5pm
Sacred kingfisher not hanging around for a photo
Ring-necked doves like hunting for snacks on the white sand
Walking across the golf course wetlands
Walking across the golf course wetlands

We finished off the day with a dinner of delicious New Zealand green-lipped mussels, always a favourite when we visit these parts, and well worth the effort of cleaning and scraping.

Mr A on debearding and cleaning duties

Friday was another showery day, but Mr A and I were determined to head off into the Kaimai-Mamaku Forest Park for a decent walk.

We had only walked 50 metres and we found the sign we didn’t want to see ‘Track Closed’!

Oh no! Track closed!

Fortunately we knew this particular walk was a circuit, so we thought we would attempt a return hike from the other end – into the Waitawheta Valley and up to Waitawheta Gorge.

We started off through picturesque farmland
Expecting Gandalf to appear around the corner at any moment!

The path wound its way through farmland, bordered by a beautiful babbling river which we followed the whole way. We climbed over styles and through gates, the experience feeling very English!

A waterfall plunges out of the side of the gorge, crossing our path

As we entered the forest park the scenery changed, with lush tree ferns, red and silver beech, kamahi and kauri trees.

Mr A admires the views from alongside the Waitawheta River
Mrs A heads off along the track
The rain draws in, increasing the water flow and the overall atmosphere in the gorge.

The Waitawheta River was ever our companion, tumbling over rocks and carving its way through the gorge. We followed the route via which early settlers transported the Kauri tree wood, chopping down magnificent giant trees, often over 2000 years old, and shipping them around the world for building.

We crossed the river several times via swing bridges, evidence of the logging history visible in the rusty rail tracks and old struts from former bridges. A replica of a bogie, a rolling contraption which ran on tracks to carry tree trunks, helped demonstrate the area’s historic past.

Beautiful colours in the ferns alongside the track, glistening in the rain
Path or stream?
One of the most visually rewarding walks we have done

At 10km but predominantly flat walking, this was not a challenging hike, but it was definitely picturesque, and the wet weather only added to the atmospheric ambience. Highly recommended if you’re in this area.

Saturday: Three days before Christmas, we were determined to not head out in the car today, assuming the roads would be even busier than usual. Instead we took off on the short 5km circuit walk from the bottom of dad and Sue’s garden.

Mr A strolling around the headland…can you spot the photobombing Tui?

It’s just ridiculously pretty, this friendly local community all pooling together to take care of the pathways, raising money for new steps down to the water after storms destroyed old ones, and one lady telling us we were sat on a bench her husband had constructed ‘just to hide an eyesore there’! No eyesores on our walk…just gorgeous views.

Views upon views…
Parkland or walk?
How many blues can we see?.
And hardly a soul on the whole walk…just serenity…

We had lunch at a waterside cafe mid way around, before returning to dad’s for a relaxing afternoon. What a little slice of paradise this is!

December 18-19: Exploring McLaren Falls

Author: Mr A

Location: McLaren Falls, Tauranga, New Zealand

It was time to head for the hills. After a few days of indolent pottering around the coast, we packed up the camping gear and set off for an overnight trip up to a small park we had briefly visited once before, but in the poring rain.

We had booked sunshine and shine it did. A glorious day to be outside smelling that distinctive aroma of fresh grass that NZ has. The park is only a short drive from the city of Tauranga (Bay of Plenty on the North Island), so makes an easy getaway for families at weekends… which is why we chose a Tuesday!

A site of our own…
Lakeside views, a picnic table, gas BBQ and a private toilet…what more could we want?
Plenty of black swans here
Tuis enjoying the nectar

We had one of the three camping areas all to ourselves and soon had the little hike tent up, mattresses inflated, and a brew on. 

It was time to have a poke about. The plan was to have paddled up the lake to see the famous glow worms, but the howling wind put that idea to bed and we set off for a tramp, as they call it here.

…The Kiwis also call pens ‘pins’…but that’s another story. 

Following the lakeside walk
Hiking up the Sunrise Track
Foxgloves flowing in the shade, reminding us of English walks

Glorious views assailed our eyeballs from every direction. Catherine always says it looms like a child’s drawing of the countryside, with perfectly rounded hills and cows posing in just the right spots. 

Ridiculously green countryside
The view from Pine Tree Knoll Lookout

We spotted a brood of Canada geese goslings – clearly mum and dad hadn’t read the fauna manual for their breed which prescribes no more than 9 chicks. They had a long line of 17! They had clearly been busy little geese. 

Successful goose family

The wind continued and made cooking dinner on our little stove quite interesting. But we triumphed and Mrs A again managed to turn dinner into a sumptuous feast of chicken saté and fresh veggies with quinoa nestling in a bed of brown and black rice. Flipping lovely. 

One burner dinner is served!

It was soon time to snuggle down for the night. Remember the part about the mattresses being blown up? So now mine wasn’t and clearly had sprung a leak on one of my bikepacking trips and I was so dog tired I hadn’t noticed. Well I did certainly notice this night, let me tell you. Despite having more padding than I used to, it was a crap night’s sleep!

Wednesday: Ah well…a breakfast of beans and mushies livened me up and we packed away our camp and headed out to see the falls themselves. We couldnt help visualising our friend David, who grew up locally on a farm, poised on the rocks with his brothers all daring each other to jump. 

The picturesque falls
In a week’s time, these will be full of families playing!

A short drive back to Omokoroa and an afternoon granddad nap seemed appropriate.

…I know..

Even the visiting godwits thought it was a good time for a nap…!

.

December 15-17: Natural New Zealand doesn’t disappoint

Author: Mrs A

Saturday: Another spectacular morning welcomed us, the water glistening  just metres from the end of the garden. Of course this meant we were again tempted out for a paddle. This time we packed up our boats into backpacks and walked across to the other side of the peninsular to launch. As we reached the other side we noticed the sky darkening, and a quick look at the weather radar showed a major storm heading our way.

Heading up the hill – colour coordinated shoes and backpack!

We decided the water might not be the best place to be if this hit, and changed our plans to a hike, following the coastal path around Omokoroa’s headland.  That’s the great thing about these boats you can carry – they’re so light that it doesn’t really matter if your plans change, it was not too arduous to take them with us.

Mr A heads off along the coastal pathway
Stunning views with the tide out in the early morning light
More lovely views, looking out to Motohua Island

We tracked around a beautiful walkway, following steps and grassy pathways, all the way around and back to home – around 7km all up. The storm didn’t eventuate fortunately, instead changing direction and heading out to sea.

Mr A pausing to enjoy the view up a steep stairway

Sunday afternoon we decided to attempt the backpack-paddle adventure again, with dad and Sue joining us to walk over to Cooney Reserve, where we inflated the boats on a white sand beach and launched off.

Mark heading off from the shore
Winding through the yachts
Spot Mount Manganui in the background

The water was shallow and so warm – easily around 30 degrees centigrade – and the local children were having a great time playing in the water and jumping off the wharves.

Sparkling clear warm waters

The Kokopelli boats are so easy to paddle, more so even than our last packrafts – they’re slightly narrower so not quite so susceptible to the breeze on flat water. As we rounded the headland the nor-easterly was quite brisk, but we made it around without too much effort.

Having so much fun in our little boats. Behind us the little bay 100 metres from dad and Sue’s back fence.

This is such a picturesque time of year to visit New Zealand. The Pohutukawa trees (known as the native Christmas tree) are all in bloom, filled with nectar loving birds such as the native Tui and the introduced rosellas. Ever swooping in front of us were a pair of sacred kingfishers,  entertaining us with their antics as they caught little fish in the shallows. Apparently kingfish and snapper are common around here.

Picturesque Bay of Plenty
Flowering Pohutukawa trees
Mr A entranced by the Sacred Kingfishers

Our day concluded with drinks and nibbles, as is the civilised way!

A glass of red to finish the day before dinner

Monday  dawned and Mr A and I attempted  some shopping in Tauranga. The town is looking a little scruffy and sad, with most of the bigger shops having moved out of the town to a big estate. We managed to get a few bits and pieces for our upcoming camping trips, then returned to Omokoroa for the afternoon. 

Looking down the side of dad and Sue’s house towards the harbour

Dad and Sue spent their afternoon in the garden, making their already stunning display even prettier with pruning, feeding and mowing. It is definitely a hobby which displays its rewards. It is hard to believe they have only been moved in since  the beginning of May this year, the garden at that stage being more of a building site. Many of these plants started off as little cuttings brought from their old home or gifts from friends and neighbours. It looks amazing today, with much potential ahead too.

Dad hard at work in the garden
Some of the beautiful flowers in the garden

Mr A and I decided to walk down to the harbour and explore the bay on foot, picking our way along the beach alongside the golf course. 

More native Christmas trees flower along the sandy beach
Looking out towards the Kaimai range

There’s plenty of bird life here – with literally hundreds of black swans in the bay, white faced herons, flocks of bar-tailed godwits (flown here all the way from Alaska, over 11,000km away) and red-legged pied stilts. All this is surrounded by the stunning Kaimai ranges, making for a very unique location.

Pied stilts circling us to check how frightening we are

We sat a while on the edge of the water, watching the birds circle around nervously before deciding we weren’t too big of a threat and settling a short way away on the sand.

A rather grand house alongside the bay…we’d love to learn its story…

What a very special place this is. 

The sun setting over the reserve, golf course and bay.

December 5-8: Mothballing the car & Zone

Author: Mrs A

Location: Canowindra, Bathurst and Sydney

Tuesday: Everyone awoke feeling a little dusty after our impromptu celebration on Monday night, but life on a farm must go on, however foggy the heads! Jo somehow found time to show Mark and I around the old house that sits on the property, the central parts still pretty sound after nearly 100 years standing. Jo and Alan have some exciting plans for a new home, office and guest quarters on the site, with building hopefully starting next year.Mr A and I drove into sleepy Canowindra to send off the last of our eBay sales, a couple of Christmas gifts to the UK, and return our tyre-pressure monitoring kit back to the factory for testing. Despite fully reinstalling the monitors from scratch in the morning, they still failed to show all our wheels on the system.

We were more or less the only people on the streets – it’s amazing how the handful of clothes, craft and trinket shops survive with such light traffic.

Alan, Jo, Mark and I finished off the day by heading into the nearby small town of Cowra, hoping to eat dinner at the Indian restaurant there. Mr A and I had dined there last year, finding the food delicious, and definitely up there with our favourite meals. Sadly, on arrival we found the restaurant in darkness, the phone number seemingly disconnected. What a shame. We opted for the local pub instead, The Oxley, which was buzzing and provided some tasty dinners.

Wednesday: We awoke knowing we had a challenging task ahead of us – to decide what items to take out from the caravan and back to Sydney with us. We were now leaving the caravan until February so had to think about all eventualities. Finally we had packed our bags, done a final tidy up and took the Zone to its undercover storage place. The Zone looked dwarfed by the barn, and we feel sure it’ll be protected from the elements, settled amongst fabulous views over the coming weeks.We farewelled Jo and Alan and drove to our next destination, Bathurst. There we stopped the night with friend David and his two boys, Felix and Rory, enjoying steak and salad and a good night’s sleep. This is where the Cruiser will spend the next few weeks while we are in New Zealand.

Thursday: David dropped us at Bathurst station and Mr A and I began our slow journey back to Sydney. Boarding a coach to Lithgow at 10am, we finally reached our next accomodation in Matraville around 4.30pm. A long hard slog!

It was great to see Miss Tassie though, and soon our patient and generous flat mates Jenny and David arrived home from work for dinner and a catch up.

We’re definitely clocking up the favours, and feel very fortunate for the strong friendships we have built up over the past 20 years in Australia which are allowing us to enjoy the lifestyle we have chosen.

Friday: After a very sedentary few days, we were determined to get out for a walk. It’s a gorgeous temperature here at the moment, mid 20s, and perfect for a stroll. We walked down to South Maroubra Beach and back, clocking up over 12km – very pretty scenery.The afternoon was spent doing a little Christmas shopping and a visit to my ENT surgeon (iSGS followers – I had my first awake steroid injection into my stenosis!).

Saturday: A hair cut was in order for me – I decided to get quite a bit chopped off and it’s now the shortest its been in several years – thank you Toni for fitting me in and doing a great job as usual! Jenny and David had invited a bunch of their friends over for Christmas drinks and nibbles in the evening, so Mr A and I helped prepare the apartment for visitors, starting with quality testing the beverages – a glass of French Champagne before the guests arrived.A fun evening proceeded – delicious food and drink accompanied by much laughter and interesting conversations. Fabulous!

29-30 November: Blissful bounties in Berry

Author: Mrs A

Location: Berry, NSW

Thursday: We survived the storm in Kiama, emerging unscathed to head a short way south to Berry. We’re fortunate to have good friends living there not far from Seven Mile Beach, and parked up the Zone at the top of their property.

After a cup of tea with Barb, Mr A and I decided we ought to get out for a walk, despite another impending rainstorm. We drove down to the very deserted beach, arriving just as the heavens opened!The weather didn’t stop us, and we enjoyed the hike with the rain and wind at our backs, with the shower stopping in time for our return route.We enjoyed a great evening with Barb and Omar, a delicious chicken hotpot and some fine wine of course, before retiring to our bed up on the hill, lulled to sleep by a chorus of croaking frogs. Very relaxing indeed!

Friday: The day dawned bright and sunny, and we got a chance to admire our fine view across to Budderoo National Park.We had a delicious breakfast in Berry with Barb, Omar and another friend, Joanne who happened to be in town, before taking our kayak down to Broughton Creek and launching it for a paddle. After all our hard work the past few weeks, this was finally us reaping our reward, and the morning was perfect for it.Spring has truly sprung here, and the riverside was lined with young calves, staring in shock at this 7+ metre giant boat cruising past. There was not a breath of wind, providing us with some amazing mirror-like reflections.We paddled just over 9km, before returning for hot showers and a relaxing afternoon. It’s been a while since we’ve been allowed such luxury!

The four of us concluded the day with a delicious Thai feast at Leaf, a local Berry restaurant, before retiring for the night. What a perfect start to our time away from home!

4 November: Escape to the bush

Author: Mrs A

Location: Sydney, Australia

Since our last post we have been really busy – sorting out our house, choosing which furniture to keep and store, and which to sell or donate to charity, interjected with occasional frenzied cleaning and tidying in order to present our home as a show house to tempt future tenants in. All this activity has been interjected with some great catch ups with friends.

Today, we finally allowed ourselves a bit of a break. We headed up to our favourite Sunday Food Market in Frenchs Forest first thing, treating ourselves to Japanese pancakes for breakfast and topping up our vegetable supplies.

From there we headed down to Garigal National Park, where we did a great 8.5km hike. Just 20 minutes from home, it was a fabulous reminder of the lovely scenery here on our doorstep in Sydney.It was great to be back out amongst the gum trees, the beautiful scents of the Australian bush reminding us what all our hard work the past few weeks has been about.Kookaburras flew across our path, and up in the trees there were the constant squarks of sulpha crested cockatoos and the calls of the eastern whip birds and superb fairy wrens.There was a bit of climbing involved, and I felt so grateful to be breathing easily again – the first real test since my surgery a few weeks ago.We followed the pretty Carroll Creek, winding alongside Sydney sandstone.

Before we reached the car on our return leg, we’d spotted more wildlife including a gorgeous chocolate brown bush wallaby and a rarely seen echidna.Getting out there amongst nature definitely relieved some of the stress of the past few weeks, and we are determined to do more of it.

We have more busy times ahead, with the task of packing to get started on and this week choosing where to store our furniture long term.

More adventures are definitely in our future, and the big task of emptying our house is our first step along that next journey. Hopefully you’ll continue to join us along the way!

3 October: Kentucky wanderings

Author: Mr A

Location: Red River Gorge National Park, Kentucky, USA

It was a hot a steamy morning down here in Kentucky – 87% humidity and 30 degrees – sticky as…but off we went unfettered to bag us some more walks.The Auxier Ridge trail took us 8km out and back along a …wait for it…ridge…which was excellent for Catherine’s current breathing capacity and my old bones. It was another great recommendation from our mate Tom, although I think we only managed two of the five trails he suggested!

Check out these views though…Bird life was a bit sparse, a couple of eagles graced us with their soaring presence briefly, then haughtily exited stage right when even Catherine looked too big a morsel for lunch.

We had to make do with the blue bellied Eastern Fence lizards and butterflies instead.

It looks as though a lot of people camp out on the end of the trail, despite the signs forbidding it. Pity they can’t manage to carry a few extra grams and take a trowel to bury their waste. Some things are universal unfortunately, we experience the same in Australia.We staggered back to the car severely feeling the humidity, and retreated by mid afternoon to the wonderful AC cooled Cliffview Lodge. However, we had a bit of strange experience on the drive back, all of sudden really weird noises came out of the phone and car audio system while I was negotiating a tight bend. What the heck was that? A message came on the phone screen – it was a presidential alert testing the national emergency wireless system.I’m surprised Trump didn’t use it to send a personal message to us all..something self-effacing, well thought through and fact based no doubt.

1-2 October: Heading south to Red River Gorge

Author: Mrs A

Location: Natural Bridge State Park, Kentucky, USA

Monday: We farewelled our friends in Cicero and took the Interstate south, heading away from the flat cornfields of Indiana, briefly through Ohio and up into the rolling forested hills of Kentucky.

The changing scenery was quite beautiful, and the temperature climbed too, up to 30 degrees celsius by the time we nearly reached our destination at 3pm.

We’d booked in at a lodge in Natural Bridge State Park, but on arrival we soon found it was not ideal. Built in the early 1960s, we suspect the rooms have never been upgraded, with a strong smell of damp, every surface slightly sticky and swollen doors we cannot open…or then close. We were checked in for three nights! Ugh!Mr A did some careful negotiating, using my breathing as an excuse, managed to get them to agree to refund us the next two nights…we’ll be checking out in the morning and moving to a better rated hotel.

We had a short stroll around the area – it’s very pretty and extremely quiet, a lakeside walk surrounded by oak trees filled with birds and chirping insects. We’re excited to look around over the next couple of days.

Natural Bridge State Park is famous for several weathered sandstone archways, often over watercourses. It is also home to numerous other unique weathered sandstone formations. Very close by is the Red River Gorge and the Clifty Wilderness Area – all in all an area with much natural beauty.

Tuesday: The day dawned overcast and misty but that didn’t stop us heading out for our first hike to Henson’s Cave Arch. This was not a particularly exciting walk, but got us warmed up for a day of potentially hiking in the rain as the heavens opened as soon as we left the car! The arch is more of a cave, and the downpour livened up the waterfall which is often a trickle through here. We could see the area was not a stranger to damp conditions, however, with moss, lichens and a wide variety of fungi growing in the forests.

We checked out of our damp and smelly Hemlock Lodge and headed across to our new accomodation at Cliffview Lodge. So much nicer! A large, clean room with a sliding door leading to a wraparound veranda with rocking chairs and swing benches overlooking a beautiful view.

The rain started to die off around midday, so we headed out again to our next hike. This time we followed the recommendations from our friend Tom in Indiana, as he had selected some highlights for us which fit our criteria – not too steep or strenuous!

First of all was the Rock Bridge Trail, a very pretty hike through the forest with not only a stunning rock bridge, but the picturesque Creation Falls on the way. We were unable to get to a couple of the other walks he recommended due to bogginess of the road – we really missed our Landcruiser here. But after this walk headed to Gray’s Arch.More spectacular scenery awaited us there with just the very beginnings of autumn beginning to show in the foliage. We’re just loving being among these deciduous trees, reminding us of our lives in England, and the scenery and walks otherwise quite reminiscent of the Blue Mountains, just outside Sydney.

Our final walk for the day took us to Natural Bridge. As this is a long way up, we decided to take the chair lift to the top and hike back down. Thankfully by this time, the rain had really dried up and it was a beautiful afternoon.Once up, it was a spectacular view as we walked over this bridge, and then climbed under it to begin the walk back down.To reach the underside of the bridge we had to squeeze through a narrow crack in the rock, but the view was worth it. The geology sure is impressive here!Our hike down took us through more narrow, low and extremely steep and slippery pathways – we were so grateful Tom had loaned us two hiking poles.Before long we were back at the car, ready to head back for showers and food.

We’ve clocked up 11.5km (7.2 miles) and climbed 64 floors today…our fish and salad burritos were much appreciated, enjoyed with cups of herbal tea (still drying out after the weekend!). Fabulous – and another day exploring tomorrow, too!

23-25 September: San Francisco – a brief love affair

Author: Mr A

Location: San Fransisco, California, USA

Sunday: From the moment we left the airport after dumping our car, we started to fall in love with this city. Our cab driver was so polite and helpful, our apartment right down at Fishermans Wharf was great (so lucky to get something in this location so reasonable), this city felt good!Our first night was spent at a beautiful Italian seafood restaurant courtesy of another member of Catherine’s sub-glottic stenosis support group and her husband, Lynne and Ron, and what a great vibe down on the wharf. We could get used to this!

Monday: We headed out to explore, with the traditional early morning mist clearing to reveal a sparkling harbour that we walked along for miles before heading off for a power shop. Some browsing around the shops later we headed off on a tram across town to a discount shoe outlet, even the conductor wouldn’t take our money! It was quite an experience travelling up and down San Fransisco’s incredibly steep hills.Lots of shoe bargains later, we walked back to the bay and hit an oyster bar – wow there’s some big fellas here and a very different flavour from what we’re used to in the Southern Hemisphere.

What a superb market down on the wharf, you could spend some serious coin in the delis here. We just brought some soft cream sheep cheese and headed back to taste test the wine we had been given made by the talented Joe – a Duke’s Folly Pinot – so smooth and just set off the tart cheese wonderfully.Dinner was an early affair (Catherine is feeling pretty beat with her airway so closed at the moment, and we had clocked up just under 12km (7.5 miles) on foot!). We had booked a Korean restaurant just down the road from our apartment and once again had some awesome food. California really has not disappointed.

Tuesday: Another misty start but we headed out to walk up to the Golden Gate Bridge, which was almost completely hidden until we reached it and magically the fog lifted and there it (mostly) was! This city is being so kind to us. I think she knows we have fallen in love.The dog walkers were out in force, although this guy seemed to have his own pack very well trained.A big walk back along the bayside and a lunch in the sun – I had been hanging for a crab chowder in a bread roll – and I got it! Sadly no dairy free version of that creamy number for Mrs A.Off we marched again and caught the ferry over to Alcatraz for a superbly produced audio tour. Thanks to our Napa friends, Susan and Joe, who encouraged us to book the trip – it is not usually our thing to hang out in the crowds but this was great. I wonder how many of the 1 million visitors a year have sworn off a life of crime after seeing this place?Now I have to admit we then committed a major faux pas for travellers and went back to the same Korean for dinner. Please forgive us, but we had seen another dish on the menu we both wanted and just couldn’t resist. We were home by 6.30pm (16km (10 miles) of walking under our belts today) and packed up ready for our early getaway tomorrow to Chicago. Wild things no longer.

San Fran – it was a brief dalliance, but we loved your vibe.