18-22 January: More shades of green and blue in New Zealand

Author: Mrs A

Location: Omokoroa and Coromandel, New Zealand

Friday: It was another fine day in New Zealand, I’m sure you’re tired of hearing. Blue skies over Omokoroa prompted Mr A and I to pull out the walking shoes and head off on another hike. We drove just 10km up the coast to Aongatete and set off on another walk in the lower Kaimai Range. The cloud hung down over the peaks but did not rain.

Heading up hill to commence our hike…no gentle warm up for the legs on this walk!
Lush forest with a path cris-crossed by tree roots
A little fan-tail keeps us company as we walk

We saw a lady with her two young children who were doing a shorter hike, but otherwise no other people as we walked the circuit. I relished my open airway and good breathing as we hiked up and down some relatively steep valleys, crossing a couple of streams as we went.

Other than slipping on a green rock and getting a wet foot, there were no mishaps, and we were reminded once again the contrast with similar hikes in Australia – no ticks, leeches or snakes here.

Mark stops a moment to enjoy the sounds of the forest and breathe in the clean air…
The stream which captured my foot…I forgave it since it’s so pretty…

It’s almost like a stairway of tree roots, guiding the way…very Lord of the Rings…
What goes up must also climb down…

Saturday & Sunday: With one more week left here in New Zealand I decided to paint a couple of artworks for dad and Sue as a thank you for their hospitality. Over the weekend I clocked up about 8 hours of painting – it was good to get back working on paper!

Four hours into my painting… more to go…will post the finished item on the Arty-Cat page…

Saturday night dad and Sue hosted neighbours Den and Angie for dinner – delicious mussels and prawns with a couple of tasty sauces. Much laughter ensued as we had an enjoyable evening with a few bottles of wine under a starlit sky.

Sunday morning started with rain and a low rainbow over the golf course…

Mark and I strolled down to the beach on Sunday afternoon at low tide, feeling wistful at the fact we only have a few more days left to enjoy this very special location. The sand flats were covered with birds; herons, black swans, Canada geese and oyster catchers mingled with godwits, gulls and stilts. We were the only people down there as we sat and enjoyed the peace and quiet from the white sand.

A flock of godwits in formation…
Variable and pied oyster catchers…these used to be shot for food in the 1800s and early 1900s
A white-faced heron glides past on its way to a new pool of snacks
Easily spooked, the black swans show off their white wing tips as they fly off to less disturbed waters

Monday morning began nice and early, with workmen arriving to commence repaving the back patio. Mark and I packed up the car with some clothes and our camping gear and headed off a couple of hours up the coast to the Coromandel peninsular.

It’s a lovely drive up, with the Coromandel mountain range on our left, and fleeting turquoise water views alongside the forest and valleys to our right. The road is very windy and popular with motorcyclists, but less so with me and my weak stomach. I was relieved when the winding ceased and my travel sickness abated.

We set up camp at Hot Water Beach, stopping in the garden beside an orchard of an old house near the beach. It wasn’t a fancy location by any stretch of the imagination, but it was peaceful and the ground was flat.

A New Zealand wood pigeon looks down on us

The owner of the location came down to see us, showing us the resident eels living in the stream behind our camp. “Keep your toes away from the edge, they’ll attach onto one and suck off all the flesh, leaving a bone.” Ugh!

One of several eels in the stream…this one was just a baby…

I revisited my foot slipping into the stream a couple of days ago with a new perspective! Maybe there are things in New Zealand that can hurt you after all!

We stuck to the beach instead, doing a lovely long walk along the coast. What we didn’t do was dig a hole in the sand and sit in it, like so many other visitors. Hot Water Beach is named for the hot springs which rise in the sand, accessible by shovel. The springs only appear in about a 50 metre wide stretch of the beach, and it is here that people sit in wet holes, cheek by jowl admiring the incoming tide. We very briefly considered doing this, before returning our shovel and exploring the quieter parts of the beach instead, no tourists around.

Horror of horrors – the crowds in the warm water area of the beach…
The serenity at the other end of the beach…the off shore wind creating beautiful waves
A heron battling the strong wind
A pair of southern black-backed gulls stand over their lunch…good to see gulls hunting for their own food and not picking through bins…

Tuesday – after a slightly disturbed sleep (very strong winds) we arose and drove a short way up the coast to Hahei. A very pretty settlement, this is the gateway to the famous Cathedral Cove. Accessible only by foot or boat, this is on everyone’s ‘must visit’ lists for the Coromandel.

Mr A prepares hot cross buns for breakfast…it must be nearly Easter….?!

Mr A and I have been there at least twice in the past, loving its picturesque gentle turquoise waters dotted with rocks and islands and white sand beaches. We parked up on the seafront at Hahei and took the coastal walk along.

Things have changed somewhat in the five years since we last came this way. Firstly, there is a water taxi that loads up people for $15 a head and whizzes them along the coast, meaning there are many more families with young children at the cove. Secondly, the pathway that follows the coast has now been surfaced, making it more of a footpath than a bush walk.

We hiked our way along, passing many people approaching and coming back from the beach, finding them differing from the usual hikers we come across. When you see someone on a bush walk, 99% of the time they will look at you, smile and say hello as you pass. Here, people avoid eye contact and rarely have a smile. If they are under the age of 30 then they will fill the path three abreast and scowl if they have to step aside to allow you to squeeze past single file. Very different souls indeed!

Mr A heads off from Hahai along the coastal walk…blessed with spectacular views
Looking back to Hahai beach from the first headland
The official start of the walk to Cathedral Cove…(do Helen, Stu, Simon, dad or Sue recognise this?)
Spectacular views…we were sad it was too windy to pack raft along here…

Of course the beach and cove was beautiful, but with many visitors. I jumped in for a refreshing dip (fulfilling a promise to my sister that I would do – brr! Helen I hope you appreciate my sacrifice) but Mark got no deeper than his ankles.

The cathedral like archway that gives the cove its name
Don’t look too closely…shivering as I enter the water…
Floating with toes up, in memory of Granddad Ernest…
Warming up on the sand before we head off…

After half an hour we headed back, calling in to Stingray Bay on our way around. In contrast to Cathedral Cove, there was hardly anyone here, but it was equally spectacular. I wish I had saved my swim for the turquoise waters here instead. True to its name, we watched stingrays whizz around the water’s edge catching lunch, and a couple of feral goats munching on some trees on the side of the bay. If you visit these parts, I suggest you plan to spend most of your time in the serenity of this beach rather than Cathedral Cove – total bliss.

A very healthy looking goat…
The serenity of Stingray Bay…
Now this is more like it – no water taxis here…
A single boat in the bay…
Yes, Mr & Mrs A approve….

We tore ourselves away and continued our return to Hahei and lunch – 8.5km having worked up a nice appetite!

An endangered New Zealand plover (also known as a dotterel), nicely disguised in the dunes on Hahei beach

I decided to fight the travel sickness and do the winding road driving on the way back to Omokoroa – a wise decision it turned out – I felt fine being in control!

Another lovely evening ensued with dad and Sue – a glass of wine on the patio followed by pork steaks, rice and vegetables. Delicious.

14-17 January: Walks in the Kaimai Range

Author: Mr A

Location: Omokoroa, Kaimai Range, Waihi Beach, New Zealand 

Monday: The Kaimai Range watches moodily over the Bay of Plenty, its dark craggy peaks regularly obscured in thundery clouds. We keep looking up at them from our haven down by the beach in Omokoroa and are inspired to keep reaching for the hiking shoes and driving up for a wander around.

It’s really hard to remember a more beautiful spot we have ever based ourselves, a huge thanks to Catherine’s dad Richard and wife Sue, who have shared their lovely home with us all these weeks. It’s a tough choice whether to head out on the water, paddling around the seemingly endless sheltered bays, or stride up into the hills. I know…life’s tough.

It literally poured with rain on Monday morning, so we dressed up in our waterproofs and took a short walk over to Omokoroa Beach.

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Still looks lovely in the rain
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After a bite of lunch the skies cleared and the Kaimai Range appears again

Tuesday: With a break in the rain, we headed up to the Kaimais to try out a walk on the Tuahu Track, one of the many that crosses the range a short drive from us.

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Heading off on the track…so many options from here – we chose the Sentinel Rock lookout
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Starting off along a civilised six foot track…

After an innocent enough start along a well formed track, the path headed almost vertically upwards, in the time honoured Kiwi fashion! We came across the all too rare remnants of the Kauri forest that once dominated the landscape before settlers realised their value as timber. The oldest specimen remaining has watched over the forest for 1200 years. Just writing that gave me goose bumps! What a timescale. Finally they are being protected and efforts to restore the forests are making some slow progress. In 1987 all the remaining tracts of Kauri forest came under government protection…it’s a nasty disease spread by walkers which is threatening the remaining trees now (Kauri dieback) – we made sure to brush and spray our shoes before starting or finishing any walks.

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This tree is a young 600 years old
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Feeling pleased these giants are now protected from the saw

With a lot of huffing and puffing we finally reached our lookout, and I got the stove on for a brew.

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Time for a brew!
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The view from the lookout…extra dramatic with an approaching storm
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Mrs A heads off down the slope

Almost immediately thunder started rumbling around the peaks, and it was a quick gulp or two before we donned rain jackets and slithered and stumbled our way back down. Thankfully the storm ebbed away and moved past us to the coast. I can’t imagine how tricky it would have been to get get down that path when it was even more slippery in the rain.

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A dramatic Omokoroa sunset ended our day, the mountains in the distance

Wednesday: The rain returned again the next day so took a nostalgic drive out to where Richard and Sue used to live at Waihi Beach. Dramatic skies shed an eerie light over this glorious place.

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After a morning of rain, a stroll along the beach is in order, Waihi Beach looking dramatic
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And at the end of the day, Sue and Richard enjoying another fine sunset from the front of their property

Thursday: The next day dawned fresh and bright, so we headed off down the road to a volunteer maintained park, the Te Puna Quarry Park, with a lovely network of paths running around an old quarry. The views from the lookouts were spectacular.

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Enjoying the view from the butterfly garden
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Sculptures dotted around the park add to its beauty, many with interesting stories
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A fantastic panorama across the eastern Bay of Plenty – Here is Mount Maunganui in the south, we could see all the way up to the Coromandel Range in the north
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And the time is….? 2pm
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More sculptures overlook the vista

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Enjoying the views

Mount Maunganui as usual dominates the scene, cruise ships clustered around the docks, and the endless channels and bays glistened in the afternoon light. Monarch butterflies flitted through the forest, and Catherine was in her element with her lens snapping away. It’s lovely to see her so happy, and breathing well at the moment (touching my head, ie wood!).

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Monarch butterflies are everywhere
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A newly hatched butterfly drying its wings
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The gardens are planted to attract these beauties
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One of the many caterpillars feeding on a Swan Plant – they are ferocious eaters – not many of the plants had leaves left!

Oh what a relief to be here in these temperatures and not back in Australia (currently experiencing temperatures over 40 degrees centigrade in some areas!)! For New Zealand it is exceptionally warm, with the mercury going over 30 some days. But there always seems to be a cooling breeze that kicks in, and we have never felt too hot to stop us heading off on a jaunt. It’s really making us wonder about the future of Autralia for us, to be living there in the summer in a caravan. Not so good. Maybe a Plan B is called for? Let’s see.

On the way home we stopped off to top up with avocados from one of the many roadside stalls. They taste incredible freshly picked of course, so creamy and exploding with flavour. Then we got chatting to a couple who had just pulled up in their motorhome for the night in the most beautiful spot at Plummers Point, right on the edge of a well kept reserve, looking out over the bay towards Omokoroa.

Apparently their club has 80,000 members in New Zealand, and you can see why it’s so popular with so many awesome places to pull up (free!) as long as you have a self contained motorhome.

We bid them a good night and wandered back for yet another fantastic meal of fresh local produce whisked up by Richard. Oh…and a decent bottle of Cote du Rhone to wash it down of course! The local pinots come rather pricey for our everyday quaffing budget!

3-5 January: Waterfalls, forest and rapids – three days of adventuring

Author: Mrs A

Location: Tongariro National Park and Pipiriki

Thursday: After paying a visit to the local supermarket and cheese deli in Cambridge, we started to wind our way across country towards Ohakune, on the southern reaches of Tongariro National Park. It was a spectacular drive, travelling through New Zealand’s now familiar lush green farmland, with volcanic looking hills.

Fabulous view over Lake Taupo as we headed south

As we headed through Tongariro National Park the cloud descended and all hope of seeing the snow capped peaks disappeared with it. We arrived in Ohakune around 2.30pm, checking into a motel for the night. As we parked up we recognised the view from six years ago – we’ve stayed at the same place before!

We then drove up into Tongariro National Park, firstly doing a short walk to see a splendid waterfall where the Mangawhero plunges down into the valley.

The water plunging over the cliff – all snow melt, so we weren’t game for a dip!

From here we drove further down the mountain, and did a longer walk to Waitonga Falls. This hike took us through native mountain beech, climbing up high to an alpine bog. Unfortunately there was some wind up there, as on a calm day, there are some fabulous views of Mount Ruapehu reflected in the pools. We then climbed down steeply to the falls, a chance for a little water photography and a cup of tea before we headed back.

We needed all the climbing after our car journey…or so we convinced ourselves!
Walking over the alpine bog
I climb down to capture a different angle
Such a lovely river
Restricted myself to just a couple of photos
A nice cup of tea

After all that activity we headed out to a local eatery for dinner. Strangely named The Blind Finch, the restaurant calls itself a ‘hamburgeria’ selling a variety of interesting burgers (Mark had the Vietnamese – a pork mince burger with crackling and Vietnamese slaw, I had a Japanese version with Teryiaki beef) plus locally brewed beers and New Zealand wines. A great meal, and a fabulous view of the setting sun reflecting on Ruapehu’s snow capped peak as we walked back to the motel.

Mt Ruapehu glowing at sunset
Ohakhune as the sun sets

Friday: We arose early to do one more hike before we checked out, heading back into the national park, and doing a short walk through the Mangawhero Forest. We’re loving the cool lushness of the undergrowth here, every tree dripping in mosses and orchids, the ever present flutter and tweet of birds accompanying the rushing of the Mangawhero River. The track crossed a large volcanic crater on our way through, changing the fauna as we went.

Did you know Mr A is a bit of a tree hugger? Especially with a giant like this…
The river winds peacefully through the forest
More water….
Our last glimpse of the river before we head off

After showering and checking out of the motel, we were away again, heading just a short way down to Pipiriki, a tiny little village on the banks of the Whanganui River. We decided to head off for a walk along the riverside. River ‘side’ in this case, is a relative term, as the cliffs alongside the river are 50-100 metres high, offering great views, but a terrifying death if the ground gives way! We did about 7km return trip, before returning for a late lunch.

Pretty special views up the Whanganui River
Abandoned shed on a farm at the end of the trail
Amazing skies
Mr A strolling along

We had a relaxing afternoon – there was no phone or internet access, so Mark read while I practiced a little drawing on my new iPad. I love how I can pretty much duplicate what I do on paper – still learning to use it and getting used to a smaller medium, but had fun.

Our little camp site
My artists impression of the view from my green chair in the shade…later to become the helicopter landing pad!

We had some neighbours join us for dinner in the evening, given we were camped beside the picnic table. Mother and son from The Netherlands, Claudia and Fabian joined us for a lot of laughter and a glass of wine, and medical student Igor from Berlin, Germany shared our dinner, having earned it with a 40km cycle today after completing the Tongariro Crossing (an 8 hour mountain hike) yesterday.

We were just heading to bed, when the campground owner came over to tell us there was a medical emergency, and a helicopter was on its way to rush another guest to Palmerston North hospital with a suspected heart attack. We moved the car and packed away the tent, and waited in anticipation.

After about 90 minutes of waiting, the helicopter landed in the carpark alongside us, a challenging night landing, and the patient loaded up. We chatted to the pilot, who told us he had night vision goggles to help navigate and as ex-Air Force was used to challenging situations.

The calm before the excitement…the ambulance awaits the helicopter
The helicopter finally arrives…
Ready to load the patient…

Soon the excitement was all over and we put up our tent and went to sleep.

Saturday: Another fine day dawned, with early fog drifting down the river valley clearing to blue skies. Mr A rustled up a fine breakfast while I prepared some lunch to take with us – a river adventure was ahead. By 10.30am we were whizzing up the Whanganui River on a jet boat, along with our Dutch friends and a German couple, two large Canadian canoes and two small white water kayaks loaded on the back.

Heading up the river on the jet boat

It took us about three and a half hours to paddle back down the river, with about six sets of rapids, including two ‘fifty-fifties’. These are so named because one in two paddlers comes down upside down! Fortunately neither of us tipped out – possibly because we had lower centres of gravity being the only people in whitewater kayaks! Nevertheless, we felt pretty proud of ourselves as we climbed out after 15.5km and headed off for showers.

Paddling past one of many waterfalls
Fabian and Claudia attempting to paddle their canoe up a waterfall…it’s no wonder they came acropper on the rapids!
Claudia doing all the work while Fabian relaxes in the front
That little yellow dot is Mr A, dwarfed by the valley sides
Mr A again dwarfed by what is called ‘the dress circle’. The line where the foliage starts up above him is where the river flooded to in 2015
I come on through some smaller gravel races…some canoeists tipped over on here even!
A little rock scrambling took us to a waterfall in a cave at the side of the valley
As we paddle down river we try to imagine the paddle steamers making it up this way in the early 1900s…back then it was known as ‘The Rhine of the South’. The first regular steam boat service started in 1892, and they were the only real way to see this area prior to the river road opening in 1934, winched along the very shallow parts of the river, and cruising on through the deeper parts…
Made it without tipping out once! Yay team Anderson!

Our Dutch friends, Claudia and Fabian were less fortunate, tipping out on at least two occasions on their journey, and we watched several other groups having unplanned dips on their trips back too.

Once clean, Mark and I set off down the 79km Whanganui River Road towards Whanganui. The road wound alongside the river south of Pipiriki, through interesting Maori villages, each with a meeting house – we often heard singing as we travelled through.

Beautiful scenery accompanied us the whole way, culminating in a fabulous lookout from which we could see all the way to the snow capped peaks of Mt Ruapeau.

Looking all the way back up the river valley

We finally arrived at Whanganui feeling tired at about 5pm, and drove down to the windswept coast in the hope of setting up camp. The wind was incredibly strong, and we could imagine the tent canvas flapping all night long. It took us moments to change our minds and decide on alternative accomodation for the night. A quick Google and we ended up at the Riverview Motel – just fabulous. For NZ$100 we had a one bedroom apartment, with fully equipped kitchen, lounge (with lazy boy chairs – how much did we appreciate those?!) and dining area. Just perfect.

We had a relaxing evening, spaghetti bolognaise, a glass of red wine and the new series of Travellers on Netflix. Perfect. What an incredible day.

30 December – 2 January: Hello 2019!

Author Mr A

Location: The Bay of Plenty, New Zealand

30 December – It was the day before New Year’s Eve and we headed out into the hills to have morning tea with our friends’ parents, on their kiwi fruit orchard. No kiwi involved incedentally, just lots of childhood stories about David and his siblings, and a tour of the house, accompanied by delicious scones and jam.After a couple of hours of fine hospitality we farewelled Pat and Bill and headed off down to the Wairoa River. Initially we had thought we could cruise on down on our packrafts from the upper reaches, but Bill had advised us of flaws in our plan – firstly, the river is tidal, so we would be starting against the water, and secondly, its about 14km – about three times as far as we usually paddle in our inflatable packrafts.

Instead we set off from near the coast and cruised on up with the tide, enjoying the singing skylarks and the swooping swamp harriers over the waters’ edge. Just a short 4km paddle was all we needed, escaping the noise of the highway and relishing being close to nature.

We quickly head away from the noise of State Highway 2
Paddling up the river with the tide, trying not to disturb the water fowl

31 December – Before we knew it, the end of 2018 was upon us, and we decided to head up into the hills behind our base at Omokoroa for a wander through Puketoki Reserve, a stunning little native forest haven, saved from the saw in 1925. Catherine of course captured some lovely memories for us to share.

Enjoying the cool of the forest after the heat on the coast

1 January 2019 – Happy New Year! After a relatively quiet (for us) New Year’s Eve we were up for some paddling out on the glorious Bay of Plenty. Catherine’s dad offered to give us a lift to a Pahoia Domain beach, a couple of bays north of us, from which we then paddled back to his house.

Well, what a start to the the year! It was an awesome paddle. Our packrafts were inflated quick smart and we launched into the bath warm shallow water.

We are so delighted with these little boats, and pleased we changed them over to these new models from Kokopelli. Much smaller packed size means easier to carry around, and a narrower beam makes them a little quicker – well relatively – we are aren’t going to break any paddling records, but thats not our intention. We just dawdled along checking out the incredible scenery.

This grand mansion came into view. Wow….but are the owners happy?!

Investigations are being made into who might own this beauty!

2 January – This morning we packed up the car and set off with a reasonably vague plan to explore over four or five days parts of the North Island we haven’t made it to on previous trips. Our destination today was inland and over the rugged range that runs down the east coast of the Bay of Plenty to the small town of Cambridge.

We had read about the ‘Te Awa River Ride’, a cycle route following the mighty Waikato river, with the most scenic section being between Cambridge and Lake Karapiro, where the river has been dammed.

We hired bikes from the local information centre and set off on the “river ride”. Only one thing missing – the river. After riding through the town, with mostly no bike lanes, we roads along a long straight path by the side of a main road for 90% of the ride, finally arriving at the river.The picture of the ride that appears in all the marketing literature is actually the only really scenic 200 metre section on the whole trip (28km return!)!

Just in case you had read like me that “Cambridge is the cycling centre of New Zealand” and were panning to come – I would reconsider.

It ended up at a very cycle unfriendly road with cars racing past on narrow lanes…we turned back!

We treated ourselves to dinner out at the local Indian restaurant which helped Cambridge to redeem its reputation somewhat.

Onwards tomorrow to explore new locations. We do love a good road trip!

23-29 December: Christmas week round-up

Author: Mrs A

Location: Bay of Plenty, New Zealand

It’s been a fabulous week with family and friends, meeting neighbours and getting tips and hints for future travels. We have also managed to catch up with friends from Sydney into the bargain, with a couple of lunches enjoyed.

Mr A and I have done some more paddling and hiking throughout the last week, making the most of the weather, which has been typical New Zealand (rain-sun-rain-sun!).

We had a great paddle up the nearby Waipapa River, timing it perfectly with the tides helping us in and out on our trip.

Heading off across the glassy bay
Mr A heading up the river
Enjoying an apple for breakfast in the pouring rain
Mr & Mrs and the bumper boats

Christmas Day was glorious, with a delicious family dinner and an afternoon walk to work it off.

Christmas cheers around the tree
A Tui drinking nectar on the flowers
Stormy skies over the Kaimai Range
A king tide brings the water up onto the reserve…the low lying house owners would have been nervous
Rowing boats waiting to take owners out to the sail boats
“I saw three ships not sailing by…on Christmas Day in the morning….”

On Boxing Day we caught up with friends in the morning, and spent an afternoon walking in the Kaimai Range, not far from Omokoroa:

Seconds from the car you enter lush forest
Heading off down a path
Boardwalks help avoid much of the boggy mud…
Not all the streams have bridges though

On Thursday, stepbrother Simon, Sue’s eldest son, came to visit, bringing wine and gifts. A delicious family brunch was followed by a short walk.

A fan-tail chases flies as we walk through the woods
Summer berries in the hedgerow
A peaceful paradise along Omokoroa beach
A pair of eagle rays entertain us as they hunt in the shallows
Never tire of these views!

Friday saw us heading about an hour’s drive north up to Karangahake Gorge to catch up with friends Sara and Barny who were passing through on their Christmas holiday. After a pub lunch we went for a short walk to some waterfalls, and then a circuit walk through the gorge:

Owharoa Falls – known as bridal-veil falls for their perfect distribution of water
Sara, Barny and team Anderson enjoying the refreshing spray from the water
The roaring Ohinemuri River
The path is pretty narrow here – attention required!
A beautiful short walk before we farewelled Sara and Barny on their way up the Coromandel

We’ve really enjoyed exploring this area, but will be ready to head off a little further afield next week, packing up our tent (and hopefully no punctured mattresses!) to explore some more.

We hope you had a lovely week, whether you celebrate Christmas or whether you just took the opportunity to spend some quality time with friends and family. Seasons greetings from us both!

20-22 December: Continuing our exploration of the Bay of Plenty

Author: Mrs A

Location: Bay of Plenty, New Zealand North Island

Thursday morning reminded us why New Zealand is so lush and green, with the heavens opening as we awoke. Fortunately we were prepared for inclement weather and had planned a day that didn’t require sunshine. It began with a pedicure for me, while Mr A did a little shopping, and then we headed to Mount Manganui.

Driving around this area is a slow process, with one main road heading down the coast and an ever increasing population as people move out of Auckland to the coast. We’re getting used to Google Maps telling us there is a ‘6-15 minute delay’ on every route we take!

We enjoyed lunch in Mount Manganui, one of the more civilised areas nearby, with a choice of shops and eateries. It’s one of the ports cruise ships call into when travelling down the coast. It’s such a shame more has not been made of the waterways in terms of public transport – we’d love to just jump on a passenger ferry across from Omokoroa to here, but no, the only access is via road.

The rain disappeared once we returned back to dad’s and we headed back down to the bay for a walk. Sorry if we are repeating ourselves photographically but the scenery is so lovely!

Late afternoon sunshine – this is around 5pm
Sacred kingfisher not hanging around for a photo
Ring-necked doves like hunting for snacks on the white sand
Walking across the golf course wetlands
Walking across the golf course wetlands

We finished off the day with a dinner of delicious New Zealand green-lipped mussels, always a favourite when we visit these parts, and well worth the effort of cleaning and scraping.

Mr A on debearding and cleaning duties

Friday was another showery day, but Mr A and I were determined to head off into the Kaimai-Mamaku Forest Park for a decent walk.

We had only walked 50 metres and we found the sign we didn’t want to see ‘Track Closed’!

Oh no! Track closed!

Fortunately we knew this particular walk was a circuit, so we thought we would attempt a return hike from the other end – into the Waitawheta Valley and up to Waitawheta Gorge.

We started off through picturesque farmland
Expecting Gandalf to appear around the corner at any moment!

The path wound its way through farmland, bordered by a beautiful babbling river which we followed the whole way. We climbed over styles and through gates, the experience feeling very English!

A waterfall plunges out of the side of the gorge, crossing our path

As we entered the forest park the scenery changed, with lush tree ferns, red and silver beech, kamahi and kauri trees.

Mr A admires the views from alongside the Waitawheta River
Mrs A heads off along the track
The rain draws in, increasing the water flow and the overall atmosphere in the gorge.

The Waitawheta River was ever our companion, tumbling over rocks and carving its way through the gorge. We followed the route via which early settlers transported the Kauri tree wood, chopping down magnificent giant trees, often over 2000 years old, and shipping them around the world for building.

We crossed the river several times via swing bridges, evidence of the logging history visible in the rusty rail tracks and old struts from former bridges. A replica of a bogie, a rolling contraption which ran on tracks to carry tree trunks, helped demonstrate the area’s historic past.

Beautiful colours in the ferns alongside the track, glistening in the rain
Path or stream?
One of the most visually rewarding walks we have done

At 10km but predominantly flat walking, this was not a challenging hike, but it was definitely picturesque, and the wet weather only added to the atmospheric ambience. Highly recommended if you’re in this area.

Saturday: Three days before Christmas, we were determined to not head out in the car today, assuming the roads would be even busier than usual. Instead we took off on the short 5km circuit walk from the bottom of dad and Sue’s garden.

Mr A strolling around the headland…can you spot the photobombing Tui?

It’s just ridiculously pretty, this friendly local community all pooling together to take care of the pathways, raising money for new steps down to the water after storms destroyed old ones, and one lady telling us we were sat on a bench her husband had constructed ‘just to hide an eyesore there’! No eyesores on our walk…just gorgeous views.

Views upon views…
Parkland or walk?
How many blues can we see?.
And hardly a soul on the whole walk…just serenity…

We had lunch at a waterside cafe mid way around, before returning to dad’s for a relaxing afternoon. What a little slice of paradise this is!

December 18-19: Exploring McLaren Falls

Author: Mr A

Location: McLaren Falls, Tauranga, New Zealand

It was time to head for the hills. After a few days of indolent pottering around the coast, we packed up the camping gear and set off for an overnight trip up to a small park we had briefly visited once before, but in the poring rain.

We had booked sunshine and shine it did. A glorious day to be outside smelling that distinctive aroma of fresh grass that NZ has. The park is only a short drive from the city of Tauranga (Bay of Plenty on the North Island), so makes an easy getaway for families at weekends… which is why we chose a Tuesday!

A site of our own…
Lakeside views, a picnic table, gas BBQ and a private toilet…what more could we want?
Plenty of black swans here
Tuis enjoying the nectar

We had one of the three camping areas all to ourselves and soon had the little hike tent up, mattresses inflated, and a brew on. 

It was time to have a poke about. The plan was to have paddled up the lake to see the famous glow worms, but the howling wind put that idea to bed and we set off for a tramp, as they call it here.

…The Kiwis also call pens ‘pins’…but that’s another story. 

Following the lakeside walk
Hiking up the Sunrise Track
Foxgloves flowing in the shade, reminding us of English walks

Glorious views assailed our eyeballs from every direction. Catherine always says it looms like a child’s drawing of the countryside, with perfectly rounded hills and cows posing in just the right spots. 

Ridiculously green countryside
The view from Pine Tree Knoll Lookout

We spotted a brood of Canada geese goslings – clearly mum and dad hadn’t read the fauna manual for their breed which prescribes no more than 9 chicks. They had a long line of 17! They had clearly been busy little geese. 

Successful goose family

The wind continued and made cooking dinner on our little stove quite interesting. But we triumphed and Mrs A again managed to turn dinner into a sumptuous feast of chicken saté and fresh veggies with quinoa nestling in a bed of brown and black rice. Flipping lovely. 

One burner dinner is served!

It was soon time to snuggle down for the night. Remember the part about the mattresses being blown up? So now mine wasn’t and clearly had sprung a leak on one of my bikepacking trips and I was so dog tired I hadn’t noticed. Well I did certainly notice this night, let me tell you. Despite having more padding than I used to, it was a crap night’s sleep!

Wednesday: Ah well…a breakfast of beans and mushies livened me up and we packed away our camp and headed out to see the falls themselves. We couldnt help visualising our friend David, who grew up locally on a farm, poised on the rocks with his brothers all daring each other to jump. 

The picturesque falls
In a week’s time, these will be full of families playing!

A short drive back to Omokoroa and an afternoon granddad nap seemed appropriate.

…I know..

Even the visiting godwits thought it was a good time for a nap…!

.

December 15-17: Natural New Zealand doesn’t disappoint

Author: Mrs A

Saturday: Another spectacular morning welcomed us, the water glistening  just metres from the end of the garden. Of course this meant we were again tempted out for a paddle. This time we packed up our boats into backpacks and walked across to the other side of the peninsular to launch. As we reached the other side we noticed the sky darkening, and a quick look at the weather radar showed a major storm heading our way.

Heading up the hill – colour coordinated shoes and backpack!

We decided the water might not be the best place to be if this hit, and changed our plans to a hike, following the coastal path around Omokoroa’s headland.  That’s the great thing about these boats you can carry – they’re so light that it doesn’t really matter if your plans change, it was not too arduous to take them with us.

Mr A heads off along the coastal pathway
Stunning views with the tide out in the early morning light
More lovely views, looking out to Motohua Island

We tracked around a beautiful walkway, following steps and grassy pathways, all the way around and back to home – around 7km all up. The storm didn’t eventuate fortunately, instead changing direction and heading out to sea.

Mr A pausing to enjoy the view up a steep stairway

Sunday afternoon we decided to attempt the backpack-paddle adventure again, with dad and Sue joining us to walk over to Cooney Reserve, where we inflated the boats on a white sand beach and launched off.

Mark heading off from the shore
Winding through the yachts
Spot Mount Manganui in the background

The water was shallow and so warm – easily around 30 degrees centigrade – and the local children were having a great time playing in the water and jumping off the wharves.

Sparkling clear warm waters

The Kokopelli boats are so easy to paddle, more so even than our last packrafts – they’re slightly narrower so not quite so susceptible to the breeze on flat water. As we rounded the headland the nor-easterly was quite brisk, but we made it around without too much effort.

Having so much fun in our little boats. Behind us the little bay 100 metres from dad and Sue’s back fence.

This is such a picturesque time of year to visit New Zealand. The Pohutukawa trees (known as the native Christmas tree) are all in bloom, filled with nectar loving birds such as the native Tui and the introduced rosellas. Ever swooping in front of us were a pair of sacred kingfishers,  entertaining us with their antics as they caught little fish in the shallows. Apparently kingfish and snapper are common around here.

Picturesque Bay of Plenty
Flowering Pohutukawa trees
Mr A entranced by the Sacred Kingfishers

Our day concluded with drinks and nibbles, as is the civilised way!

A glass of red to finish the day before dinner

Monday  dawned and Mr A and I attempted  some shopping in Tauranga. The town is looking a little scruffy and sad, with most of the bigger shops having moved out of the town to a big estate. We managed to get a few bits and pieces for our upcoming camping trips, then returned to Omokoroa for the afternoon. 

Looking down the side of dad and Sue’s house towards the harbour

Dad and Sue spent their afternoon in the garden, making their already stunning display even prettier with pruning, feeding and mowing. It is definitely a hobby which displays its rewards. It is hard to believe they have only been moved in since  the beginning of May this year, the garden at that stage being more of a building site. Many of these plants started off as little cuttings brought from their old home or gifts from friends and neighbours. It looks amazing today, with much potential ahead too.

Dad hard at work in the garden
Some of the beautiful flowers in the garden

Mr A and I decided to walk down to the harbour and explore the bay on foot, picking our way along the beach alongside the golf course. 

More native Christmas trees flower along the sandy beach
Looking out towards the Kaimai range

There’s plenty of bird life here – with literally hundreds of black swans in the bay, white faced herons, flocks of bar-tailed godwits (flown here all the way from Alaska, over 11,000km away) and red-legged pied stilts. All this is surrounded by the stunning Kaimai ranges, making for a very unique location.

Pied stilts circling us to check how frightening we are

We sat a while on the edge of the water, watching the birds circle around nervously before deciding we weren’t too big of a threat and settling a short way away on the sand.

A rather grand house alongside the bay…we’d love to learn its story…

What a very special place this is. 

The sun setting over the reserve, golf course and bay.

December 5-8: Mothballing the car & Zone

Author: Mrs A

Location: Canowindra, Bathurst and Sydney

Tuesday: Everyone awoke feeling a little dusty after our impromptu celebration on Monday night, but life on a farm must go on, however foggy the heads! Jo somehow found time to show Mark and I around the old house that sits on the property, the central parts still pretty sound after nearly 100 years standing. Jo and Alan have some exciting plans for a new home, office and guest quarters on the site, with building hopefully starting next year.Mr A and I drove into sleepy Canowindra to send off the last of our eBay sales, a couple of Christmas gifts to the UK, and return our tyre-pressure monitoring kit back to the factory for testing. Despite fully reinstalling the monitors from scratch in the morning, they still failed to show all our wheels on the system.

We were more or less the only people on the streets – it’s amazing how the handful of clothes, craft and trinket shops survive with such light traffic.

Alan, Jo, Mark and I finished off the day by heading into the nearby small town of Cowra, hoping to eat dinner at the Indian restaurant there. Mr A and I had dined there last year, finding the food delicious, and definitely up there with our favourite meals. Sadly, on arrival we found the restaurant in darkness, the phone number seemingly disconnected. What a shame. We opted for the local pub instead, The Oxley, which was buzzing and provided some tasty dinners.

Wednesday: We awoke knowing we had a challenging task ahead of us – to decide what items to take out from the caravan and back to Sydney with us. We were now leaving the caravan until February so had to think about all eventualities. Finally we had packed our bags, done a final tidy up and took the Zone to its undercover storage place. The Zone looked dwarfed by the barn, and we feel sure it’ll be protected from the elements, settled amongst fabulous views over the coming weeks.We farewelled Jo and Alan and drove to our next destination, Bathurst. There we stopped the night with friend David and his two boys, Felix and Rory, enjoying steak and salad and a good night’s sleep. This is where the Cruiser will spend the next few weeks while we are in New Zealand.

Thursday: David dropped us at Bathurst station and Mr A and I began our slow journey back to Sydney. Boarding a coach to Lithgow at 10am, we finally reached our next accomodation in Matraville around 4.30pm. A long hard slog!

It was great to see Miss Tassie though, and soon our patient and generous flat mates Jenny and David arrived home from work for dinner and a catch up.

We’re definitely clocking up the favours, and feel very fortunate for the strong friendships we have built up over the past 20 years in Australia which are allowing us to enjoy the lifestyle we have chosen.

Friday: After a very sedentary few days, we were determined to get out for a walk. It’s a gorgeous temperature here at the moment, mid 20s, and perfect for a stroll. We walked down to South Maroubra Beach and back, clocking up over 12km – very pretty scenery.The afternoon was spent doing a little Christmas shopping and a visit to my ENT surgeon (iSGS followers – I had my first awake steroid injection into my stenosis!).

Saturday: A hair cut was in order for me – I decided to get quite a bit chopped off and it’s now the shortest its been in several years – thank you Toni for fitting me in and doing a great job as usual! Jenny and David had invited a bunch of their friends over for Christmas drinks and nibbles in the evening, so Mr A and I helped prepare the apartment for visitors, starting with quality testing the beverages – a glass of French Champagne before the guests arrived.A fun evening proceeded – delicious food and drink accompanied by much laughter and interesting conversations. Fabulous!

29-30 November: Blissful bounties in Berry

Author: Mrs A

Location: Berry, NSW

Thursday: We survived the storm in Kiama, emerging unscathed to head a short way south to Berry. We’re fortunate to have good friends living there not far from Seven Mile Beach, and parked up the Zone at the top of their property.

After a cup of tea with Barb, Mr A and I decided we ought to get out for a walk, despite another impending rainstorm. We drove down to the very deserted beach, arriving just as the heavens opened!The weather didn’t stop us, and we enjoyed the hike with the rain and wind at our backs, with the shower stopping in time for our return route.We enjoyed a great evening with Barb and Omar, a delicious chicken hotpot and some fine wine of course, before retiring to our bed up on the hill, lulled to sleep by a chorus of croaking frogs. Very relaxing indeed!

Friday: The day dawned bright and sunny, and we got a chance to admire our fine view across to Budderoo National Park.We had a delicious breakfast in Berry with Barb, Omar and another friend, Joanne who happened to be in town, before taking our kayak down to Broughton Creek and launching it for a paddle. After all our hard work the past few weeks, this was finally us reaping our reward, and the morning was perfect for it.Spring has truly sprung here, and the riverside was lined with young calves, staring in shock at this 7+ metre giant boat cruising past. There was not a breath of wind, providing us with some amazing mirror-like reflections.We paddled just over 9km, before returning for hot showers and a relaxing afternoon. It’s been a while since we’ve been allowed such luxury!

The four of us concluded the day with a delicious Thai feast at Leaf, a local Berry restaurant, before retiring for the night. What a perfect start to our time away from home!