Catherine Anderson

October 28, 2017July 14, 2023

Day 151: 28 October – Snakes on the way to Paradise

Author: Mrs A

From: Munglingup Beach

To: Paradise Farmstay, Dalyup

We left early this morning, blue skies overhead but continuing strong winds. I had not had a good night’s sleep due to a pinched nerve or similar causing pain from my neck to my right arm – I’m hoping this is not going to be a regular thing – it seemed to get better during the day.

As we drove out from camp we spotted our first snake in a long while – a sunbathing diamond python along the roadside – this one is not venonmous. He posed for some photos. Not long after spotting this beauty, we crossed paths with an actual venomous black snake, which reared up at our rig and slithered quickly into the bush – no photo of that one!

We continued our journey eastwards towards Esperance, stopping at Paradise Farmstay along the way. We had some difficulty finding the location due to the lack of signage, but once we had settled, found out from Tom the farmer/butcher that he wasn’t allowed to advertise due to the Esperance caravan parks. Thank goodness for the Wiki Camps App!

We settled in for the day – I had an hour’s catch up nap, then we purchased some organic sausages, fresh eggs and some diced steak from Tom. We cooked up three of the sausages for brunch – delicious! I swear there is a difference from the usual butcher or supermarket sausages. The strong wind continued so we mostly settled inside out of the breeze (strong breeze which prevented the awning from going out and blew over chairs and stools outside!). Tassie loves it here though – no dogs or anything threatening – she had a great day strolling around the paddock or dozing in the sunshine.

At 4pm we congregated on Tom’s deck for happy hour with the other people camping here. We have a couple from the NSW Central Coast, a family from Southerlandshire, also in NSW, and a couple from Mackay in Queensland. We all shared drinks, nibbles and stories for a couple of hours, before retiring to the mobile apartments to cook dinner after enjoying a proper bush sunset.

Mr A and I have a beef rendang, cooked with our local organic beef (we are trying to disassociate dinner from the cattle strolling around in the next paddock), and the remainder of last night’s delicious Brash Vineyard Shiraz.

October 26, 2017July 14, 2023

Day 149: 26 October – Travelling east through more wild weather

Author: Mrs A

From: Bremer Bay

To: Hopetoun

Distance driven: 250 km

Distance walked: 2 km

As the crow flies from our camp this morning, tonight’s location was around 100km, but in between us and Hopetoun was the Fitzgerald National Park, and the mountains within it that stretch majestically down to the ocean, more than doubling our travel distance.

It was a blustery journey. The 3 tonnes of car and about the same of caravan were being buffeted around by extremely strong winds the whole way, making it a physical drive for Mr A as he struggled to keep us in a straight line. We were pleased Tassie seems to have got the hint about car travel, and immediately settled down for a long sleep on my lap while we journeyed.

We pulled up at our free RV camp in Hopetoun around 2.30pm, and within 5 minutes of parking up the wind gusts strengthened further still, reaching more than 72km/hour at one point, followed by horizontal torrential rain. We locked ourselves into the mobile apartment and put the kettle on for a herbal tea. When in doubt drink tea.

The rain continued for the rest of the afternoon, only breaking just before sunset, allowing us a brief opportunity to explore.

We’re parked alongside a heritage rail trail which traverses the bushland between Hopetoun and its nearest neighbour, Ravensthorpe for about 49km. Definitely an option for tomorrow’s activity. We strolled a short way along it and then down a pathway traversing a sand dune (made from giant tyres – innovation and recycling for you!) to a stunning white sand beach. Beautiful views awaited us, with the small town of Hopetoun in the distance one way, and beaches stretching away along the coast the other.

Anti-crepuscular rays in the sky opposite the setting sun (and a mini rainbow)….yes, I had to look that up!

We counted the other caravans, motorhomes and campers parked up at this free spot – 12…More than the total number of vehicles we have seen on the road all day! I wonder how the Hopetoun residents feel about the town offering this free camping spot. I guess we all bring much needed money in to the area (Mr A is already eyeing up the bakery and pub!), but there is also a private campground here – how busy it is there?

We’re all settled in for a cosy evening – plenty of solar power despite the lack of sunshine today, full water tanks thanks to our last campground, and stocked up with food…and tomorrow’s forecast is sunshine. Much to look forward to!

October 25, 2017July 14, 2023

Day 147: 24 October – It’s all about orchids!

Author: Mrs A

Location: Tozer’s Bush Camp, Bremer Bay

Distance walked: 6 km

We did something quite different today, joining Terry, an amateur botanist passionate about orchids, on a wildflower hunting expedition around the bushland surrounding Tozer’s bush camp. I must admit we have very limited knowledge of Australian flowers, and Western Australia seems to be richer in diversity than anywhere else we have been – possibly due to the smaller population and poor soils for farming purposes.

The three hour tour commenced at 10am and we were immediately educated with stories of the importance of the right amount of bushfires to help distribute seeds and open hard seed pods and shown the impact fire can have on the land. Then there were the orchids. Many are dependent on the sun to open (particularly the Shy Sun Orchid which will close up as soon as the clouds come over), whereas others just need warmth.

Below a few that we saw – I will try to remember all the names, but can’t guarantee they are all right!!

There are many many more but they will have to wait for a wifi connection – we’re running low on mobile data.

It was a fabulous morning, and we returned for lunch with our heads spinning with all our learning.

We concluded our day with another walk, trying to remember what we had seen during the morning and spot more flowers, while enjoying the serenity of the bush. We finished up at the communal campfire for a chat with our fellow campers before heading back to the mobile apartment for dinner as the sun set. Just another day in paradise!

Another fine evening to conclude the day

October 22, 2017July 14, 2023

Day 145: 22 October – Birds, beaches and blossoms

Author: Mrs A

Distance cycled: 22 km

Distance walked: 3 km

Turning left out of our campground we followed a cycle path without truly knowing where it would take us, enjoying the adventure of spontaneity. The path followed the forest behind the water’s edge with occasional diversions down to white sand beaches and incredible views.

We continued on as the paved pathway made way for an off-road route, following the Bibbulmun Track for a couple of kilometres, and back out through a housing estate. We chatted with a couple of local cyclists out for a Sunday morning explore who gave us advice on directions to go. We chose to follow the river towards the ocean, finishing up at a lookout with a vista of the spectacular Ocean Beach.

A typical sleepy sandy and seaweedy beach

It was a warm and very humid day, with temperatures in the late 20s, constantly threatening storms which we would have welcomed, but never came. We returned via the other end of the rail trail, which brought us conveniently back to camp.

A lovely gravel trail to return us to camp

After a BBQ lunch, we spent the afternoon cleaning. Fridge, floors and shoe cupboard for me, mountain bikes and car for Mr A. After a shower and quick pick up of final supplies (we are off bush camping for a few days, and the IGA supermarket here is fabulous!) a walk to enjoy the stunning evening was in order.

The water was very still, offering mirror-like reflections.

The only ripples come from a pelican swimming up the creek

A drumstick – threatened species in these parts, with phytophthora dieback which feeds on the root system, rotting the plants

A pelican checking to see whether I had any fish to feed him

One of four kookaburras which stalked me on the walk

Tomorrow we farewell this beautiful water and woodland paradise, and head further east. We’ll be sad to leave serene Denmark. It’s not quite Western Australia’s answer to Byron Bay as some suggest, but a far sleepier, more peaceful version of it. Denmark – it has been wonderful.

October 20, 2017

Day 143: 20 October – Walpole to Denmark in an hour

Author: Mrs A

From: Walpole

To: Denmark

Distance driven: 73km Cycled: 28km

Well who knew you could travel to Denmark in less than an hour and still speak English? Denmark Western Australia was named by Europeans in 1829, not after the country as you would imagine, but after a naval surgeon, Alexander Denmark. The resident aborigines called the area Kwoorabup (place of the black wallaby).

We turned in an easterly direction from Walpole and drove through stunning scenery, Marri, Karri and Tingle forests lining the roads with blue skies overhead, the morning sunlight filtering through the trees. Beautiful. We booked into a campsite down by the Wilson Inlet, a shallow lagoon full of birdlife with forest and white sand beaches lining the shoreline. We were keen to enjoy the beautiful day and so after setting up jumped on our bikes for an explore. Denmark is very bike friendly with shared pathways throughout town.

We decided to embark on a ride along the Heritage Rail Trail which starts just 100 metres from the campground.

It was a beautiful ride, along relatively flat pathways, mostly alongside the inlet and beaches, and frequently reminding us more of English countryside rather than typical Australian landscapes – it was only the flora and fauna which reminded us where we still were.

It was a stunning afternoon’s ride taking us to a little under 30km return and working up a good appetite for the evening’s activity.

Just before heading off on our cycle, we had received a knock on the caravan’s door, as you do. It was the skipper of the the caravan site’s boat, popping over to let us know they were doing an evening cruise – $35 to head up the local creek and out into the inlet to see the sun set, including a fish and chip dinner delivered by the local pub! That was something we couldn’t say no to, so of course we booked on.

The cruise departed at 5.30pm sharp, and took us up the river, allowing us to see some incredible reflections while learning a bit about the region’s logging and farming heritage.

It was BYO so of course we took along a rather delicious chilled white to accompany us on the journey and to enjoy with our food. With a cloudless sky, sunset was lovely but not spectacular, and best enjoyed through the glow on the trees and scenery.

A lovely end to a fine day.

October 18, 2017October 18, 2017

Day 141: 18 October – The sun re-emerges and reveals Walpole’s beauty

Author: Mrs A

Location: Walpole

Distance walked: 5km

The rain and wind continued this morning, keeping the temperatures down and people inside.

Mr A bravely decided to embark on a solo adventure to try out his new bike tyres while I got down to some volunteer work I had committed to. I’m helping two doctors in the USA and one in the UK with separate research projects – they have drafted questionnaires and I am helping to finalise them. Keeps me in a research mindset while travelling, and helps them with something positive for patients. Meanwhile I was also compiling a Q&A for another doctor who has agreed to answer questions for a support group I run. A busy morning on the laptop for me, grateful for a strong 4G signal!

The wind dropped and the sun came out mid afternoon and Mr A and I decided to do some exploring on foot. Our campsite is surrounded by national park in every direction – an extremely picturesque location on the banks of the Nornlup Inlet. The inlet is calm and tinged red with the tannins from the forest which reaches down to the water’s edge. We can hear the roar of the surf on the Southern Ocean in the distance.

We walked through bushland full of beautiful wildflowers through to a stunning beach. Pelicans joined us along the coast and a sea eagle soared through the sky.

This region is a true haven for wildlife, with birds galore around the campground, along with wallabies munching on the lawns. Tomorrow we’re booked on an Eco tour around the waterways where we hope to learn a lot more about the region. We are in love with its peacefulness and serenity, as well as its many opportunities for toy usage. To bike, hike or PacKraft, that is the question…!

(Below: Western New Holland Honeyeater on a fence post behind our caravan)

A relaxing evening with a chicken curry, Peaky Blinders on Netflix and a glass of Coonawarra Cab Sav followed this gentle activity, accompanied by a small furry friend. Life is good!

October 16, 2017October 17, 2017

Day 139: 16 October – 100km an hour winds and torrential showers

Author: Mrs A

Location: Margaret River

The wind and rain started in the early hours of this morning, prompting a slow start to the day. We headed out around 9.30am to do a few tasks in Margaret River, before sitting down for a pot of tea and some brunch. Mr A then dropped me off at the scarily named hairdressers – Ed Scissorhands, while he dropped his bike off at the shop for some new tyres to be fitted.

It is always a little daunting having a cut away from your usual trusted advisor, but my hairdresser was fabulous, listening to everything I asked for and delivering perfectly. Given the ever increasing wind gusts and rain showers I suggested they might just want to do a basic blow dry, not my usual request of bouncy curls, but my consultant insisted and did a great job! I made her take a photo to prove what it looked like before I stepped out into the world!

Mr A met me and we drove north out of Margaret River about 25 minutes to Amelia Park Wines, the newest cellar door in the region. As with many cellar doors, the landscaping surrounding the building was spectacular, but unlike others, the entrance to the actual cellar door was something else. We entered through a big heavy wooden door into a dark wood panelled room full of wine barrels. The corridoor then led you forwards at which point two sliding wooden doors opened, revealing beautiful vineyard views and a tasting room – quite theatrical. It clearly worked its magic – after a few tastings we bought a couple of absolutely delicious wines and joined their members club.

From there we went down to Vasse Felix, probably the region’s most famous winery. A little bit of name dropping didn’t go amiss, and being (extremely!) loosely connected to Virginia Willcock (Vasse Felix’s world class chief winemaker!) enabled Mr A and I a free tasting of their $85 a bottle award winning Chardonnay – absolutely delicious. Our friends Carole and Nick drove up and joined us in the tasting here.

Our next vineyard was Howard Park, before we headed back into Margaret River for something quite different. Whisky. Yes, there is a distilliary here too. The starting price for a bottle of local Whisky is around $85 and they go up from there. We tried quite a few – learning how the bouquet is not always reflective of the taste, and just a tiny drop of water can make all the difference.

All in all a very successful day despite the inclement weather, and Mr A is very proud to have a fine bottle of single malt for those evenings around the camp fire. We returned to camp for spaghetti bolognaise and an alcohol free evening!

October 15, 2017October 16, 2017

Day 137: 14 October – Old friends, new friends and more hidden delights

Author: Mrs A

Location: Margaret River

We were treated to another warm, blue sky day here in the Margaret River as we headed into town to the Farmer’s Market which runs on Saturday mornings. We didn’t know what to expect, given the range of markets we have experienced around Western Australia – ranging from the very poor Derby market which sold a few cacti and a couple of home made jams through to the surprisingly delicious Carnarvon market with famous chefs serving up food. This market was fabulous – more along the lines of what we are treated to at Forestville or Warriewood markets in Sydney.

Rows of stalls with samples of sheep and cow cheese, fresh bread, cakes, croissants, vegetables and herbs, olive oils, balsamic vinegars, fresh meat, eggs and fish…the choice and sampling opportunities were endless. We picked up some sheep cheese (I discovered I can tolerate this in small amounts – yay!), vegetables and wood fired bread. As Mr A was listening to the story of the bread shop, I looked around to see what delights awaited us next and spotted an old friend from Sydney! We popped over to surprise her…

Fiona now lives about 45 km away from the Margaret River in Augusta, and runs a successful and growing business, Alkomy Kombucha. Kombucha is a sparkling, non alcoholic beverage which contains probiotics which help your stomach health as well as help clean your liver and overall boost your immune system. Our livers are already crying a little after all the wine tasting, so we bought a bottle to take with us. It was great to see Fi and catch up on how she’s doing now.

Returning to our sheep station we found the ‘Griswalds’ have moved into a spot next to us – two feral families headed up by a potty mouthed Australian bloke. Fortunately after setting up their tent they went out for the remainder of the day, returning us to our serenity. We enjoyed freshly baked bread, cream sheep cheese and sliced tomato in balsamic and olive oil for lunch, sitting under dappled shade overlooking meadows of yellow flowers and grazing sheep. It feels like France!

Carol and Nick, an English couple we met on the gastronomic tour yesterday popped over to see our mobile apartment. They are considering moving to an off road van from their 26 foot monster. We wandered over with a bottle of wine to check theirs out too – it is huge, with three distinct separate rooms, each separated by sliding doors – makes ours look tiny! Not sure we could have got into all the interesting locations we have visited with that length of van, however. We whiled away the afternoon exchanging stories while enjoying a cool white wine.

The evening saw us back in Margaret River for dinner. We had been told about and had read great reviews about a restaurant called Miki’s Open Kitchen. Set back from the street in an arcade area, first impressions were quite unassuming, but once we were seated we were in for a treat.

The kitchen is the centrepiece of the restaurant, with seating on three sides. Nothing is hidden here – we were able to watch everything being prepared as the chefs worked their magic. Miki’s is Japanese fusion, with some incredible food prepared. We chose the Miki’s Trust menu, an ever changing degustation. I lost count of how many dishes we were served, but each contained about three different morsels, every one consisting of carefully balanced flavours and perfectly cooked. They were served up like mini artworks, with delicate edible flowers adorning the ever unique serving dishes. What an experience!

A really lovely evening, and a relatively late night home for us – 11 pm!!

October 12, 2017

Day 135: 12 October – Margaret River has sheep too!

Author: Mrs A

From: Yallingup

To: Rosa Brook, just outside Margaret River

Distance driven: 51 km

Distance cycled: 10 km

We continued our exploration of the region, heading further south and setting up camp about 10 minutes drive outside of the town of Margaret River. It’s a very picturesque area, and a lovely change of scenery being surrounded by bleating sheep and lambs, all recently shorn. We’re set up on a working sheep station, complete with chickens, cockerels and guinea pigs (!) roaming the area, much to Miss T’s delight. The native birdlife is prevalent.

(Above: Western New Holland Honeyeater)

We decided to cycle to a nearby winery, one of many recommended by friend Cathy. It was only 5km away, and Miss Google promised just a 15 minute ride. It was a very scenic journey, though quite hilly. While it was 15 minutes in one direction, it was definitely slower on the return journey (particularly with a couple of bottles in my pannier and a few tastings under our belts!).

Brown Hill Vineyard had some great well priced wines though, and an enjoyable visit.

We did very little the remainder of the day, choosing to relax in the sunshine and read. We’re booked on a gastronomic tour tomorrow, so we’re saving our eating and drinking energy for that!

(Below: a pair of Common Bronzewings)

October 11, 2017October 11, 2017

Day 134: 11 October – A feline perspective of the Margaret River

Author: Miss T

Location: Yallingup, Margaret River region

Distance walked: 600 metres

Apparently we are in an area famous for whine. I’m not entirely sure why my servants have brought me here – after all I only associate whine with dogs or complaining humans, particularly the small variety – neither of which are good.

There are several other terms I have heard bandied about, which I can interpret as follows:

Bouquet – that I understand fully. Bouquet is all about the aromas – and that I know a lot about. I am more than capable of sitting in front of a single bush for in excess of 20 minutes just enjoying the smells of the creatures that came before me – be they feline, canine or possum, the odours they leave behind are quite irresistible. I get bouquet.

Palate – I can only assume this means when something tastes rather nice. Like those treats my humans recently purchased for me. They don’t seem to understand how irresistible they are – if only I could eat those instead of that Science Diet they give me. That is rather dry on the palate, extremely savoury, lacking complexity, with hints of fake chicken and meat juices. Fills a hole but that’s about it.

Terroir – Easy. Its all about how much sunshine I get, how little I am disturbed, multiplied by how nice the soil outside is to walk on. I don’t really understand why humans find it so ethereal….interrupting the terroir can result in a look like this below…you don’t want to disrupt the terroir…

Thankfully, it is rather quiet in these parts. It seems we are travelling outside of school holidays, so no small screaming (or whining) humans around, and only the occasional canine. It’s a good opportunity to explore somewhat freely, though I still seem to be tethered by the pink lead thing. Hopefully the servants will soon learn to walk without me guiding them.

I was stalked this afternoon by a pair of ringnecked parrots. Most odd. I said hello to them in my usual feline way (a slight hint of ‘I’d try to catch you if I wasn’t so well fed’) and they followed me all the way home. Quite scary. I believe Alfred Hitchcock wrote a film about this exact situation. I’ll be staying in the rest of the night – I dread to think what’s next…