Catherine loves painting and photography as well as the great outdoors. Cycling, kayaking, pack-rafting and hiking are favourite activities as well as scuba diving when the location permits. A self confessed geek, she’s the reason details are included in our stories!
Monday: Catriona’s birthday is the event that had brought us all together on this occasion, and what a place to celebrate. Our friends’ spectacular house and grounds we are staying in has ever changing views over the the valley, buzzards and swallows constantly soaring overhead. At night, fireflies light up the undergrowth and there is a nightingale that sings beautifully after dark.
The terrace and pool have views to die for, and there are multiple zones to sit in and relax, surrounded by beautifully groomed gardens and an olive grove below.
A house and pool with a multi million dollar view
We had a lovely birthday breakfast for Catriona with strawberries and yoghurt, keeping it healthy in anticipation of more delights to come, allowing Catriona to open presents and cards and Mr A to read out a poem he had composed, in special birthday tradition.
After a little refreshing pool time I accompanied Catriona, John, Stuart and Karen back down to Abbadia di Fiastra to show them around there. We explored the church with its frescos dating back to the 1500s before taking a stroll along the avenue of mulberry trees and looping back around the fields.
The walkers
Birthday girl enjoying the serenity
Very quiet on a Monday morning
Returning for a light lunch it was a relaxing afternoon had before G&T o’clock.
Mel and Catriona
G&T to start…
Mr & Mrs A enjoying the view
Full team: Barney, Karen, Mel, Mr A, Catriona, John, Mrs A and Stuart Karen and Stuart enjoying the view
Mark and I had bought Catriona a magnum of champagne from Pannier when we were in France, which she kindly shared with us all (given she would have to abandon all her clothes in order to take it home!) – deliciously good memories there!
Birthday girl with champagne
Before long it was time for Catriona’s birthday dinner, cooked by a private chef at the house. We don’t think you could find a better restaurant than this!
Full menu:
Warm asparagus salad, lemon dressing with crispy pancetta and crutons
Pappardelle, pork ragu with mushrooms and fresh herbs
Roasted beef with mixed vegetables
Chocolate texture with cherry compote and roasted hazelnuts
Catriona’s private chef, Fabrizio preparing our entree of asparagus
Fine views across the valley
Surrounded by views and flowers, the table is set for dinner
The village lighting up behind usAmazing menu in a great setting
The fine wine flowed and the music got louder…there was dancing and laughter and I think Catriona’s next decade was entered into in fine style!
Fabrizio joins us for a post cheffing beer before he heads offCatriona, Karen and I boogie on the ‘dance floor’
Saturday: It was a dusty start to the morning after a fun Friday night out with Mel and Barney in Loro Piceno, with delicious food followed by dancing to a live band on the cobbled streets.
Exploring the streets of Loro PicenoMay explain the sore head on Saturday morning…Varnelli – similar to ouzo…Fabulous cover band at La Taverna, singing a wide variety of songs in English
Mel had booked a haircut for me in a local village, and with none of the staff speaking English I was pleased Google Translate worked well enough for me to get the cut I wanted and not end up with a shaved head!
Our friends from the UK arrived early afternoon, successfully finding the house and enjoying a light lunch as we all caught up on news.
In the evening Mel and Barney had booked us a table at a local restaurant, Casa Azzurra. It is set around a pretty courtyard, with delicious food and wine.
Pink Prosecco to commence the eveningEnjoying our aperitifCasa Azzurra
Sunday: The eight of us piled in to two cars and headed up to Mount Sibillini National Park, a hour’s drive away. It was a warm day, around 35 degrees in the valley, but as we climbed we were relieved as the temperature dropped to the late 20s.
Our first stop was at Lago di Fiastra (Lake Fiastra), the main reservoir for the region. The turquoise waters look quite striking, surrounded by mountains and beaches. There were quite a few people swimming in the water and picnicking on the shore.
John enjoying the view in a field of wildflowersKaren, Mel and Stuart enjoying the view
Many of the buildings in this area are still damaged from the two major earthquakes in 2016. On the winding road up the mountains there was extensive evidence of work done to shore up the cliffs and prevent rockfalls and landslides, and many buildings remained abandoned, shored up by steel cables and wooden braces.
Church and buildings unsuitable for occupation post earthquake
We continued a short way up the mountains to Rifugio di Tribbio, a lovely rustic restaurant Mel and Barney had found. What a gem! There’s no way you would stumble across this as a casual visitor without the local knowledge. There we feasted on three generous courses and two litres of wine for the grand cost of about €160 between the eight of us (AU$33/£18 a head). We sat outside on a bench table with great views across the mountains.
Views of the nearby ruins of Magalotti castle
After lunch we wound our way up the mountains even further, found a shady parking spot and headed off for a walk. It’s a glorious time of year in the mountains, with wildflowers in every corner.
Wild peonies (Paeonia officinalis) growing on a limestone slopeEvery square metre is covered in flowers – pinks, mauves, purples, yellows…so prettyLovely orchidsWild Narcissus (Narcissus poeticus)
We did a lovely circuit walk – steep on the way up and blissfully downhill on the return loop, helping us burn a few lunchtime calories and enjoy the clean mountain air.
Wondering whether the last glass of wine was wise!The walkers – minus Barney – L-R Mrs A, Mr A, Catriona, John, Stuart, Karen and MelLooking back at the lowlands which look rather hilly when you’re down there!
We drove back down the mountains and into Loro Piceno for an evening cocktail at La Cantina, a bar with a terrace boasting amazing views over the valley and out towards Mel and Barney’s house. We then headed home for an early night in preparation for celebrating Catriona’s big birthday tomorrow, the reason for this gathering of friends.
Enjoying the views and drinksCatriona tries out a swing chairKaren and Catriona try out their first Aperol SpritzBeers for the boys – StuartJohn
Wednesday: We only drove 15 minutes to Spello, just 10km away from Assisi, everything we had read suggesting it was worth a visit.
We took quiet winding roads through agricultural land, grateful we didn’t meet any other traffic along the way.
Maybe just room for a cyclist to pass here…fabulous roads to drive on as long as you don’t meet anyone!Gorgeous views accompany us on our way
Spello is far less well known than Assisi, but its history stretches back just as far. Much of the town is built on Roman remains and foundations, and sits within an old amphitheatre. The churches are often built on top of old Roman temples, and encompass little clues here and there to the past.
We entered through a grand gateway flanked by towers, amazed that there was not a soul around. In fact that is one of the main appeals of this town – it is so close to Assisi but there are so few tourists here. The streets and buildings are quiet, taking on a pink hue from the Mount Subasio limestone used in their construction. The constant call of swallows can be heard as they swoop catching flies around the rooftops, and the hum of insects on the ever present flowers.
Where are all the people?These stone walls were restored in the early 1900s
Every corner is filled with flowersPretty pathways in all directionsA lovely looking villaEvery little space is used for pots of colourRichness of colour in every direction
Seppo is full of flowers, every windowsill, doorstep and corner brimming with blossoms. The few people we did see were often tending to their pots, painting wooden planters, replacing dying plants with new ones.
A local gardening enthusiast tends to his pots
There seemed to only be one cat in Seppo…quite a chunky one too!Fine views across the Umbrian countryside
From the top of the town there are fabulous views back across to Assisi, a monastery behind us enjoying this view daily.
Assisi on the hillside oppositeWander around forever and never see another person!
Heading off down yet another enticing lane way Will we get tired of these views?A flower within a flower?If only we could understand the stories behind this architecture
We tried to find somewhere nice to have lunch, but the menus were quite restrictive in terms of dairy-free, and the restaurant we really wanted to go to was closed on Wednesdays.
Mr A making use of the Google Translate app to ask about dairy-free meals
So we wandered back through the town, calling in for some wine tasting on the way through (three small glasses for €10), and popping our heads into the Chiesa di Saint Andrea, a church built in the 11th century, an example of Francisan architecture.
Hard to resist another little alleyway to explore
Chiesa di Saint Andrea Frescos by Tommaso Corbo in 1532
We’ve seen sculptures like this all over Italy
It was well worth the visit to Seppo. We didn’t buy any wine, the prices set for the American market (two to three times the usual cost!) rather than the Italian value we have become accustomed to. It would be a great location to stay if visiting Assisi and wanting to avoid the crowds, assuming you had a hire car you could park outside the town walls.
We, meanwhile, jumped back on the road and continued our journey towards the east coast.
Tuesday: While sad to leave Lago Trasimeno, we were keen to see some more of the area before we were due in La Marche on the eastern side of Italy. We decided to head to Assisi. Mr A was originally reluctant, claiming it was ‘too much about religion’, but given the whole town is a UNESCO world heritage site, I felt it was a location not to be missed.
It was a short hour’s drive and we were soon pulling up at a relatively new sosta outside a motorhome owning farmer’s house. What a view of Assisi it had!
We were also excited when a little ginger kitten came bounding up to greet us, six month old Esther is an Italian camping-cat!
Cheeky Esther bounds into Truffy for an exploreI wonder if she meows in Italian?
We wasted no time in getting out the ebikes and heading up the steep hill into town.
Mr A heading under the city gateway
As we rode up through the streets, very thankful for the electric motors helping us on our way, we passed a whole mixture of stone archways, pillars and building styles from throughout the ages.
At the very top of the hill there sits a fortification, the Rocca Maggiore, more than 800 years old. The views from here are fabulous, looking across the patchwork valley of Tescio. The castle has been built, pillaged, restored again and again in its history – it’s in pretty good nick these days but we didn’t go in.
Rocca MaggioreSolid stone walls more than 800 years oldFabulous views across the valleyLook where these little bike bring us!
The settlement of Assisi has been populated for thousands of years, with evidence dating back to 1,000 BCE when the Umbrians lived on the hill top in a small fortified settlement. The Etruscan civilisation took over around 450 BCE, introducing architecture heavily influenced by the Greeks, and then 295 BCE was when the Romans took over central Italy.
A Roman water trough still adorns a square
You may have heard of Saint Frances of Assisi? He was canonised in the 1200s, born and buried in Assisi and is co-patron-saint of Italy along with Saint Catherine of Siena. Pilgrims still flock to the town, and we saw several monks in long brown robes strolling the streets.
There are indeed a lot of churches in Assisi, containing magnificent frescoes and paintings by famous Italian artists. But churches aside, the history and architecture is fascinating, often intermingled through the ages.
Piazza del Comune
Santa Maria Sopra MinervaThese pillars date back to the 1st century BCE – part of a temple dedicated to the Egyptian Goddess IsisSanta Maria Sopra Minerva – interior from the 1500s, covered in frescoesMagnificent painted ceilings
We made our way gradually through the streets, exploring nooks and crannies and stopping to try some local produce – some delicious Umbrian wine, olive oil and balsamic vinegar.
A delicious crisp fresh dry white from Umbria
Sold! One tin of extra virgin olive oil and one aged balsamic ‘no caramel in here!’ – bought from Francesco, such a character…
Love the sign outside Francesco’s shop: ‘Please come in and taste now the best olive oils and balsamic vinegar, Later you will not feel like walking up again. Don’t miss this chance.’
Houses frame yet more views of the surrounding countryside as we descend through the townSuch a clean and uncrowded city
The most famous of all the churches is probably the biggest, Basilica of St Francis. It is also the most visited, with coach trips heading here just to see the artwork here. I recall visiting while an art student at university, way back in February 1990. The temperature was slightly different then, I can tell you – think snow flurries and bitterly cold wind! I decided not to go back in, but did a fly by on the bike to remember how it looked.
Outside the Basilica – inside, frescos painted by Giotto depict St Francis’ lifeA grand entrance way
As we returned to camp, the farmer and sosta manager pointed out his cat had a litter of four kittens needing good homes. They’re only a month old at the moment, so too young to adopt, but very adorable…no room for another cat in our life though, our Aussie Miss Tassie is still our most important fur child.
Kitten fur is just so silky soft
We settled down to a relaxing evening, enjoying the view as the lights turned on across Assisi.
Better than watching the TV – I even got a cat curled up on my lap for half an hour!
The Basilica of St Francis all lit upLooking up to the castleSunset over UmbriaSanta Maria degli Angeli – just around the corner from our camp. Famous for housing the home of St Francis and his followers – where he founded the Franciscan order and also where he died in 1226.
Location: Castiglione del Lago, Lake Trasimeno, Umbria, Italy
Sunday: Although part of me felt I really should be spending more time in Florence, perhaps visiting the art in the Ufizzi Gallery or one of the many Leonardo da Vinci exhibitions I just couldn’t face a day amongst the crowds after getting back to camp well after midnight from the UK.
Instead we packed up and hit the road, driving just over an hour south-east from Florence to Lake Trasimeno. At 128 square kilometers surface area, Lake Trasimeno is the fourth largest lake in Italy (slightly smaller than Lake Como, the third largest). The town I selected purely on the reviews of where to stay – the lakeside sosta sounding peaceful and picturesque – just what the doctor ordered.
After a relaxing lunch, we jumped on the bikes for a ride. There is a route which goes right around the lake – just over 70kms, but apparently the heavy rains during the winter have raised the lake’s levels and some of the pathways are covered with water. We decided to do a 45km return ride, heading towards the north of the lake from our sosta. It was a perfect day for ride – the weather warm but not too hot, birds singing, cuckoos calling from the woodland, butterflies fluttering by, everyone in a great mood…
Such a picturesque ride
The pathway wound its way along the shore, through poppy lined fields and over reed lined bridges. The views kept on coming.
Couldn’t resist this diversion for a perfect field of poppies!
You often don’t see the water, but the surrounding countryside is lovelyA brief water breakA rowing boat sitting on a quiet inletI had to run over this rickety old bridgeThe locals enjoy a cooling dip too
Definitely up there with one of the best rides we have ever done, and one we’d be keen to repeat and perhaps complete the whole circuit.
Monday: We started our day more locally, jumping on the bikes again and heading into Castiglione del Lago. As with many towns with an ancient history, this is located up on a hill, overlooking the lake. It has a fortification which dates from 1247, currently used for shows with its natural amphitheatre.
‘Castle of the lion’ – which later became Castiglione…Looks like a great spot for moonlight cinemaRemains of round towersAncient olive trees cast strange shadows with their near hollow trunks
The old town is very pretty, full of bars, restaurants and little shops selling local produce. Mr A did find a shop with a 50% off sale and made a few clothes purchases, and we did a little wine tasting along the way. Around every corner there is a medieval gateway framing yet another fine view. Just lovely.
Perfect eBike territory with lots of steep hillsFree wine and chorizo tasting? Why not!Another gateway frames a lovely viewMore lake views across the terracotta rooftops
Mr A had spotted Cantina Del Trasimeno, a wine co-operative, not far from where we were camped which was offering free wine tasting, so we decided to head along late afternoon for a sample. It turns out it is an outlet for more than 2,000 wineries from the local region – that’s the area around the lake, not even the whole of Umbria!
Mr A looking excited to sample some local grapesOur lovely host – excellent English skills and some fabulous wines
We tried a selection of rosetta, blanco and rosso wines, and placed and order for 18 bottles. We are meeting up with friends in a week’s time and are keen to share some local drops.
From here, we jumped back on the bikes and back along the lake, it was Monday afternoon after all, and the lakeside bars were already serving. We found a bar with nice waterside tables and settle down with a beverage to enjoy the view.
Ahh the serenityDramatic looking skies did not bring any storms
We really like the feel of this area, a lot less touristy than Tuscany (we barely heard an American accent – sorry USA friends!) and very beautiful. The wine is delicious, the climate lovely at this time of year and for us the cycling opportunities not too hilly and interesting. It is definitely a region we would be keen to return to in the future. Added to our (ever growing) list!
Enjoying our lakeside view – just €16 a nightFinal sunset…off in the morning
Thursday: There was no sleep all night as I awaited my 4.45am alarm to send me off to the airport for my flight to the UK. I farewelled Mr A and taxied to Firenze airport.
Boarding Vueling Airlines flight to London Gatwick
All went without a hitch and my sister Helen met me at Gatwick Airport with my niece and nephew, Elliot and Isabel.
We had a lovely morning taking the kids to a local park, the cloud clearing to a lovely bright sunny day.
Elliot and Isabel being entertained at the park
It was so good to have some time with my sister before Friday’s appointment in London.
Sisters – off to the pub for dinner
Friday: Regular readers will know I have a rare disease, idiopathic subglottic stenosis (iSGS). Sadly there is no known cause or definitive treatment for this disease, which basically results in your airway closing up, filling with scar tissue. The reference to Darth Vader relates to how it sounds when you’re breathing through a narrow airway!
Since December last year, I have been trialling a new procedure which involves injecting steroids into the scar tissue while awake (under a local anaesthetic). It has been working really well, and until about Easter I had no issues with breathing. Unfortunately, since late April I had been starting to struggle more and more, with this visit to see an Otalaryngologist in London the only way to really understand what’s going on. It was a day I was simultaneously looking forward to and dreading, wanting to know more, but fearing I knew the answer already.
I caught the train up to London, and then across to Kew Gardens. There I met with a fellow iSGS patient, Jacky, with whom I have become friends after meeting online via the support group I run on Facebook.
My hospital appointment wasn’t until 3pm so I had a chance to spend some time doing something for me. I have seen many friends visiting Kew Gardens and the Chihuly Glass Sculpture exhibition and was keen to go for myself.
A little bit like my head is feeling!
Beautifully restored Victorian greenhouse
Perfectly popping colour
You can almost imagine these sprouting out of the soilLike amazing flowers bursting out of the greenery
There be dragons…
Some look better when you step away from the glass and look at the big picture
Wonderful water lilies
Jacky was a great guide, and we explored the incredible sculptures in amazing settings. We spent a couple of hours in the gardens before parting ways.
I headed off to Charing Cross Hospital (nowhere near Charing Cross station, interestingly enough, but nearer Hammersmith) for my otolaryngologist (ENT) appointment.
I didn’t wait long before Mr Chadwan Al Yaghchi (Chad) called my name. Chad is a trusted colleague of Guri Sandhu, the expert consultant who I have been seeing in the UK since 2014 and one of only a few doctors who does the steroid injections under a local anaesthetic rather than a general.
I signed my approval forms and had a laryngothracheoscopy (a camera which passes up through your nose, down your throat, past your vocal cords and into your trachea).
The camera showed the scarring was returning to my airway, and in the area it had built up I was breathing through around 6-7 millimetres (closed by about 50-60% – think about the diameter of a pencil when I should be breathing through at least double that). As you can imagine, any extra mucus will narrow this even further, and constant coughing will cause inflammation which can cause yet further issues. This was very disappointing news, but not that surprising – I already knew it was getting harder to breathe on all these steep hills, I just now had confirmation of why.
Chad continued with the injections, all done through the camera, and within an hour it was all over. Now I begin the waiting game to see how they impact the scarring. I need to nebulise saline (breathe in clouds!) at least twice daily to keep my airway moist and help avoid issues, and am keeping my fingers crossed my peak expiratory flow (how much air I can blow out at speed) improves, and the scar retreats.
The story of my breathing over the past year or so….
The coming week to ten days will be important to determine whether it’s worth flying back in five or six weeks for another injection, or whether I will need to go to more drastic measures and have a dilation operation.
Exhausted after all the news and procedure, I headed back to Brighton for the evening.
Saturday: After a few stressful and full days it was nice just to relax with my sister and her family in Brighton.
Spectacular weather means ice creams and water play
As the day drew to a close, it was time to head back to Gatwick and fly to Florence. It has been a hectic couple of days, made all the more pleasant for being able to spend some precious time with family. 
A fine view of Sussex as the plane takes off
I now know I will be back in London again in July…the question is, will yesterday’s procedure stem the decline in my airway so I can just head back for more injections, or will things continue their downward trajectory and mean I need surgery? Only time will tell…meanwhile I feel even more determined to make the most of our travels.
Sunday: It was only a short drive down into Lucca, and our chosen sosta for the night, behind a mechanic’s garage a ten minute walk from the city walls. We parked up and decided to explore on foot, given the threatening skies and promise of forthcoming rain.
Lucca is one of the first towns we have visited which is not situated on a hilltop – sitting on a plain at the foot of the Apuan Alps with flat cobbled streets. It’s a nice break from climbing stairs and steep pathways! Its history dates back to Roman times, with traces of an amphitheater visible and archaeological remains beneath other buildings.
It was just lovely wandering into town, ambling down the lanes. Mark was literally salivating around every corner, with shops selling cheese, meat, pickled and fresh produce, pasta, sauces, vinegar, olive oil…the lists are endless.
Olives, anchovies, fresh pesto…thank you very muchOh so much more to try and look at!Endless interesting boutiques to explore
Too much walking and shopping makes for a hungry Mr AMultiple old churches and squares.
We took a break as the rain fell for an Aperol Spritz and a slice of lemon meringue pie for Mr A before continuing our exploration.
We decided to go out to a local restaurant for dinner and randomly selected one in a quiet suburban street, La Norma, promising us good quality Sicilian food. They certainly delivered!
From the street it looks like nothing special, but entering the restaurant you’re presented with high vaulted ceilings, with glass skylights, walls lined with Sicilian wine. The menu was hand written, but interesting and we both selected an appetiser and a pasta. Most of the people eating there appeared to be Lucca locals rather than tourists.
Mark’s appetiser of pecorino and potato compote with black squid ink and olive oil…
Every dish was like an art work, beautiful colours and textures, thought given to not only the flavours but the visual impact. And we got bonus dishes especially prepared without dairy products, so I could eat them too – a roast potato with a baked quail egg inside….extremely light and crispy artichoke with prawn meat…by the time we reached our pasta dishes we were quite full! We would definitely come back here again. A fabulous first day in Lucca.
Wandering home after dinner through the empty wet streets of Lucca
Monday: One of Lucca’s main attractions is the city wall, which remains intact around the city. It is in excellent condition and topped with a wide shared pathway to encourage cycling, running and walking around the city limits. We decided to start our day with a ride around.
The streets within the walls are a maze of historical buildings, a multitude of churches and museums, grand old monasteries and art galleries. To ride through these cobbled roads is to spend your time noticing many little details – carvings above doors, sculptures inset into stone, ornate gateways…to understand all the iconography of what you’re seeing would be quite a challenge and perhaps a lifetime of work.
Historical complex of San FrancescoMr A riding under one of the grand gatewaysLucca’s Cathedral – San Martino – built in the 6th century with a cascade of pink, green and white marble
Fabulous old roses in a monastery garden
Our network of cycling around Lucca – many one way streets make it a challenge to fill in all the gaps!
Throughout the day we explored a good part of the inner street network as well as lapping the city at least twice on the walls, clocking up around 25km. The only cat we saw was disappearing down a drain into another world beneath the streets…
Lucca’s a lovely settlement and definitely worth a visit, especially if you like history, fine food and wine, and shopping for clothes or jewellery. It feels a very safe and friendly area and is definitely up there in one of our favourite Italian towns.
Onwards tomorrow to Florence, and to adventures new.
Sunday: It was only a short drive down into Lucca, and our chosen sosta for the night, behind a mechanic’s garage a ten minute walk from the city walls. We parked up and decided to explore on foot, given the threatening skies and promise of forthcoming rain.
Lucca is one of the first towns we have visited which is not situated on a hilltop – sitting on a plain at the foot of the Apuan Alps with flat cobbled streets. It’s a nice break from climbing stairs and steep pathways! Its history dates back to Roman times, with traces of an amphitheater visible and archaeological remains beneath other buildings.
It was just lovely wandering into town, ambling down the lanes. Mark was literally salivating around every corner, with shops selling cheese, meat, pickled and fresh produce, pasta, sauces, vinegar, olive oil…the lists are endless.
Olives, anchovies, fresh pesto…thank you very muchOh so much more to try and look at!Endless interesting boutiques to explore
Too much walking and shopping makes for a hungry Mr AMultiple old churches and squares.
We took a break as the rain fell for an Aperol Spritz and a slice of lemon meringue pie for Mr A before continuing our exploration.
We decided to go out to a local restaurant for dinner and randomly selected one in a quiet suburban street, La Norma, promising us good quality Sicilian food. They certainly delivered!
From the street it looks like nothing special, but entering the restaurant you’re presented with high vaulted ceilings, with glass skylights, walls lined with Sicilian wine. The menu was hand written, but interesting and we both selected an appetiser and a pasta. Most of the people eating there appeared to be Lucca locals rather than tourists.
Mark’s appetiser of pecorino and potato compote with black squid ink and olive oil…
Every dish was like an art work, beautiful colours and textures, thought given to not only the flavours but the visual impact. And we got bonus dishes especially prepared without dairy products, so I could eat them too – a roast potato with a baked quail egg inside….extremely light and crispy artichoke with prawn meat…by the time we reached our pasta dishes we were quite full! We would definitely come back here again. A fabulous first day in Lucca.
Wandering home after dinner through the empty wet streets of Lucca
Monday: One of Lucca’s main attractions is the city wall, which remains intact around the city. It is in excellent condition and topped with a wide shared pathway to encourage cycling, running and walking around the city limits. We decided to start our day with a ride around.
The streets within the walls are a maze of historical buildings, a multitude of churches and museums, grand old monasteries and art galleries. To ride through these cobbled roads is to spend your time noticing many little details – carvings above doors, sculptures inset into stone, ornate gateways…to understand all the iconography of what you’re seeing would be quite a challenge and perhaps a lifetime of work.
Historical complex of San FrancescoMr A riding under one of the grand gatewaysLucca’s Cathedral – San Martino – built in the 6th century with a cascade of pink, green and white marble
Fabulous old roses in a monastery garden
Our network of cycling around Lucca – many one way streets make it a challenge to fill in all the gaps!
Throughout the day we explored a good part of the inner street network as well as lapping the city at least twice on the walls, clocking up around 25km. The only cat we saw was disappearing down a drain into another world beneath the streets…
Lucca’s a lovely settlement and definitely worth a visit, especially if you like history, fine food and wine, and shopping for clothes or jewellery. It feels a very safe and friendly area and is definitely up there in one of our favourite Italian towns.
Onwards tomorrow to Florence, and to adventures new.
Wednesday: We had seriously thought about missing out a visit to the Cinque Terre, given how popular they are and so much on the tourist trail, but given we were so close and travelling out of peak season we thought we’d head over for a day.
Leaving San Rocco, we headed back on the E80 and drove an hour or so along to La Spezia, where we parked up in a secure sosta along with about 40 other motorhomes. The site we were on looked more like wasteland than a camping area and was located in the docklands area of town, surrounded by containers and ships. It was not a great first impression to our visit.
A boat returning from a day out at Cinque Terre, looking back towards the port
Regardless, we jumped on a bus and headed into town. La Spezia is actually a very pretty town, with a lovely pedestrianised shopping area with a mixture of small boutiques and designer stores.
A very smart and affluent townGiant pots welcome you into the shopping districtNo (squashed) flies on Garibaldi….
We had a great afternoon wondering around and Mr A managed to get a haircut too.
Plenty of yachts awaiting a day out on the water
We enjoyed a glass of wine before dinner in the evening at a great little bar in a side street, a customer and the owner jamming to blues music, and providing entertaining conversation – La Spezia has a lovely feel.
Thursday: Cinque Terre (pronounced Chink-we Terrer) are five Unesco-listed villages painted across the steep Ligurian coast, stitched together by a great piece of railway engineering connecting La Spezia and Genoa. If you can build tunnels, then Italy is the place to work, as the scenery calls for many to link the towns. We cannot imagine how people coped before the transport networks were developed.
The five villages comprise of Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. We decided to start our day at Monterosso, the furthest away village and jumped on the train from La Spezia.
Monterosso al Mare is probably the most resorty of the five villages, with a large beach set up with sun beds and umbrellas. It also seems to have the greatest amount of flat area, with market stalls set up selling wood carvings, clothes and fried food. We had a wonder around before setting off to do the hike across to Vernazza.
A vibrantly coloured village with flowers everywhereLooking down across the beach – grey pebbles, no sand hereLooking along the coast and the hilltop walk we are about to embark onFeeling blessed with incredible sunshine after a few days of cloudLook at the colour of that water!Heading off on the hike….
The hike between Monterosso and Vernazza is described as challenging and requires purchase of a card and agreement to wear the appropriate footwear and take water. It’s a great way of doing things – we have been on many hikes around the world and seen people stumbling along in flip-flops with no sticks and no water, ultimately putting the lives at risk of anyone who is then sent out to rescue them from injury or issue.
This hike is tough, particularly if breathing is a challenge. It climbs steeply up along the coast, following a rough rocky pathway. In its favour, it follows alongside many of the terraced vineyards and olive groves you look at from the villages, wondering at the fitness and agility of the farmers who tend the lands – I can assure you they were not breathing through an airway the size of a straw when they did it!
Incredible views from up here along the rocky coastlineMr A tackles one of the old stone bridges with gustoOur first glance of Vernazza as we climb down the headland
It was a hard climb over, with some amazing viewsalong the way – it was a busy walk too, with occasional groups of people marching on past, unable to utter ‘thank you’ in any language for letting them past! But within two hours we were descending into Vernazza.
The village of VernazzaOf course there’s a cat waiting for Mr A’s treat bag!As always, a gorgeous maze of little stairways and streets to explore
Vernazza’s a smaller village set around a lovely little fishing harbour. We sat by the water’s edge and enjoyed a gelato – banana and kiwi fruit on the recommendation of a young Melbourne lady we happened to sit beside!
View from our harbour wall resting area
From here, we caught the train our next destination, choosing to skip the village of Cornoglia and arriving in Manarona. This village sits high up on rocky cliffs, seemingly impossibly perched above the turquoise waters.
A wonderful colour palette awaits usLunch is calling – we head to Nessun Dorma for bruschetta
We climbed up to a restaurant with incredible views, expecting it to have ordinary service and overpriced food and drinks…but no, Nessun Dorma served us some delicious refreshments and freshly made bruschetta which satisfied our post hike hunger, with great service. Fabulous, and totally in line with all of our Italian experiences so far.
We had a bit more of an explore around the streets after lunch, before heading back to the train to head to our final village for the day.
Riomaggiore allowed us to escape the crowds and find ourselves a few moments alone to sit and enjoy the views. There is a walkway which links all five villages, but only the segment we hiked is still open. Apparently a combination of heavy rain in 2011 and abandoned terraces on the cliffs led to major landslides, plunging the path into the sea. We could see evidence of the path being restored in a few places, particularly Riomaggiore, but it looks like slow and difficult progress.
Down at Riomaggiore’s harboursideRooftops galore, looking out to seaLooking across at terraced gardens that have been tended for centuriesFinding some solace high up in the villageQuiet….Looking out towards the closed walkway, the train station to the right
As the crowds began to leave, taking their boat trips or the train back to their hotels, you could almost feel the sigh of relief as the locals reclaimed their home streets for their own, and the lapping of the water on the boats in the harbour became the prominent sound.
We had our final look around before heading to the station and our short journey back to La Spezia. By the time we got back to Truffy at 7pm, we had walked just under 15km (9 miles) and climbed more than 100 flights of stairs. We were appropriately tired!
We’re pleased we got a chance to see Cinque Terre, but do appreciate there are many other places which are perhaps equally as beautiful, and certainly less frequented by tourists. When we look back at the spectacular places we have seen in the past week, we feel very fortunate to have experienced those without coach and boat trips blocking our views and interrupting our peace.
Location: Cervo, San Bartholomo al Mare & Diane Marina, Italian Riviera, Italy
Sunday: With just an 18km journey between locations, it was one of our shortest journeys yet, but not without its challenges! We followed a busy stream of traffic and our Google directions down a one way road, which appeared to get narrower and narrower with a line of parked cars down one side and a wonky stone wall on the other.
We pulled to one side to assess our options. With traffic constantly coming down the road, reversing was going to be impossible without significant help…and going forwards looked equally daunting without potential damage to Truffy and/or parked cars. Not a fun situation.
One of the cars passing us slowed and wound down his window. We half expected abuse for blocking the road, but no, the Italian driver told us that the road is not as bad as we thought, and that as a motorhome driver himself he was confident we could drive down safely. Mr A bravely took off, me walking in front, letting him know how much space was either way. To increase stress levels, a bus was following us, but amazingly was very patient. When Mark pulled over on a wider piece of road, the bus driver even indicated he understood the caution and gave me a thumbs up. Phew! Another skilful negotiation of a tricky road – absolute kudos to Mr A for excellent driving. We could not imagine such patient drivers in Sydney – they’d be much quicker on the horns!
So we arrived at our next destination with no damage done, a campground beside the beach 15 minutes walk from the village of Cervo. We immediately set off to explore.
Stormy skies over Cervo but we didn’t get too wet
Cervo has around 1200 residents, many of them artists, sculptors, wood carvers, painters and jewellers. The village largely built up around an initial Roman villa more than 2000 years ago. Like France, Italy has a ‘most beautiful villages‘ classification and Cervo has well deservedly achieved that recognition.
The streets are very steep, and at the moment I am not breathing too well…but made it with a little wheezing. Mark is suffering with tendonitis in his calf, so also struggled up the streets – not doing brilliantly between us! It was well worth all the effort though, with gorgeous views, interesting little alleyways and of course the friendly village cat there to meet us at the top!
Curvy cobbled steps lead us up into the villageA well looked after village, touches of colour and flowers everywhereTrees growing on seemingly impossible surfacesEven the snails are colour coordinated
Endless beautiful laneways enticing us downYou can almost imagine the lives that have taken place in these streets over the centuries‘St George and the Dragon’ mural painted in the early 1900s after sailors from England shared the story with local artists
Fortified walls evident at the top of the village
Italian cats say ‘Ciao’
A fine view from outside the church
One of the key highlights in the village is the Romanesque Oratorio di Santa Caterina church. You don’t have to be religious to appreciate the historical and artistic significance of this magnificent building, having pride of place looking out to sea and covered with incredible frescoes (mural paintings painted on plaster).
Heading up into the church
Incredible frescoes cover the walls and ceilingsA grand gold and marble alterThe equivalent of the church hall, all set up ready for a conference
Such a picturesque area, with plenty of exploring to be done. We can only imagine how busy it gets here in the summer holidays, despite the fact that Cervo does not appear in the Lonely Planet and has a pebbly beach.
All this exploring worked up an appetite and we went along to Pizza Pazza, the restaurant right next door for dinner in the evening. Yet another fabulous meal, and again at a fraction of the price we would pay in the UK or Australia, including a bottle of wine.
Monday: Glimmers of blue skies greeted us so we leaped on the task of washing first thing. Once everything was either hung out or dried we decided to go exploring in the other direction, biking our way to the next little settlement, San Bartholomo al Mare.
There are no bike lanes here, but the drivers continue to be quite respectful of cyclists, keeping their distance and no agression at all. This is all in absolute contrast to what we have been led to expect by the various blogs we’ve read – maybe our expectations have been lowered by our experiences on the road in Australia and New Zealand?
We took a random uphill road just to explore, and were soon making use of the motors on our electric bikes to take us up past gated villas with incredible views, meadows and Ligurian olive groves. It was all very picturesque.
Gorgeous views across to Cervo on our rideEven ‘warm’ enough for shorts!
Garden like wildflowers along our cycle
Terraced olive groves are plentiful here with agriculture still a key source of income
Beautiful orchids growing by the side of the road
We then cycled up to the next settlement, riding up a cycle friendly pedestrianised area and finding a little pizza place for lunch – yes, they even did me a pizza without cheese! We both ordered the small portion, which ended up being absolutely huge. Despite the fact I only ate half, we had no need to eat for the rest of the day!
Better than watching the TV – I even got a cat curled up on my lap for half an hour!
The story of my breathing over the past year or so….
A fine view of Sussex as the plane takes off
Fortified walls evident at the top of the village
