14-17 January: Walks in the Kaimai Range

Author: Mr A

Location: Omokoroa, Kaimai Range, Waihi Beach, New Zealand 

Monday: The Kaimai Range watches moodily over the Bay of Plenty, its dark craggy peaks regularly obscured in thundery clouds. We keep looking up at them from our haven down by the beach in Omokoroa and are inspired to keep reaching for the hiking shoes and driving up for a wander around.

It’s really hard to remember a more beautiful spot we have ever based ourselves, a huge thanks to Catherine’s dad Richard and wife Sue, who have shared their lovely home with us all these weeks. It’s a tough choice whether to head out on the water, paddling around the seemingly endless sheltered bays, or stride up into the hills. I know…life’s tough.

It literally poured with rain on Monday morning, so we dressed up in our waterproofs and took a short walk over to Omokoroa Beach.

08B6E7C7-8FAC-44E3-B3D1-8891188980BA
Still looks lovely in the rain
3B050710-5858-4778-969D-15C6824F4343
After a bite of lunch the skies cleared and the Kaimai Range appears again

Tuesday: With a break in the rain, we headed up to the Kaimais to try out a walk on the Tuahu Track, one of the many that crosses the range a short drive from us.

B4A14CD6-28A1-4DB6-B138-82F7BA11681A
Heading off on the track…so many options from here – we chose the Sentinel Rock lookout
5AFCF5DA-335E-4CC2-B0B8-93A7E5AE1CAE
Starting off along a civilised six foot track…

After an innocent enough start along a well formed track, the path headed almost vertically upwards, in the time honoured Kiwi fashion! We came across the all too rare remnants of the Kauri forest that once dominated the landscape before settlers realised their value as timber. The oldest specimen remaining has watched over the forest for 1200 years. Just writing that gave me goose bumps! What a timescale. Finally they are being protected and efforts to restore the forests are making some slow progress. In 1987 all the remaining tracts of Kauri forest came under government protection…it’s a nasty disease spread by walkers which is threatening the remaining trees now (Kauri dieback) – we made sure to brush and spray our shoes before starting or finishing any walks.

ADECE12F-4F28-4FDC-9670-02CD91AB2B98
This tree is a young 600 years old
1CE10BC6-C7F9-42CB-B1F2-2E3588392255
Feeling pleased these giants are now protected from the saw

With a lot of huffing and puffing we finally reached our lookout, and I got the stove on for a brew.

A66A7F97-1842-4DB8-8F50-700FFB91CD46
Time for a brew!
3280961C-18A1-4CF9-A596-AF6C2E5DD2D4
The view from the lookout…extra dramatic with an approaching storm
F90F05BD-A398-4AC1-96F0-29C6C0C0A31D
Mrs A heads off down the slope

Almost immediately thunder started rumbling around the peaks, and it was a quick gulp or two before we donned rain jackets and slithered and stumbled our way back down. Thankfully the storm ebbed away and moved past us to the coast. I can’t imagine how tricky it would have been to get get down that path when it was even more slippery in the rain.

5DD9B45A-59EB-401B-973A-430FAA5C6081
A dramatic Omokoroa sunset ended our day, the mountains in the distance

Wednesday: The rain returned again the next day so took a nostalgic drive out to where Richard and Sue used to live at Waihi Beach. Dramatic skies shed an eerie light over this glorious place.

0362C784-F40B-47F6-A2B1-E8CEEE461AD9
After a morning of rain, a stroll along the beach is in order, Waihi Beach looking dramatic
74551EEE-4FD8-4875-9AFB-792898204985
And at the end of the day, Sue and Richard enjoying another fine sunset from the front of their property

Thursday: The next day dawned fresh and bright, so we headed off down the road to a volunteer maintained park, the Te Puna Quarry Park, with a lovely network of paths running around an old quarry. The views from the lookouts were spectacular.

3B53053C-A4F0-4C17-8C4B-27B2B53EC969
Enjoying the view from the butterfly garden
93DAE5FA-A5D5-41DF-829B-51F15A0DF756
Sculptures dotted around the park add to its beauty, many with interesting stories
EE9C06B3-7836-4C6D-A63C-13DC140DA173
A fantastic panorama across the eastern Bay of Plenty – Here is Mount Maunganui in the south, we could see all the way up to the Coromandel Range in the north
A1400565-5FA9-4AD8-9666-59559AD92AFC
And the time is….? 2pm
7B5CEFD8-2356-48AA-905E-C735D0F074C2
More sculptures overlook the vista

EB35623B-A447-4877-8404-B35F56D59CFD

0EAB8170-6CCB-497E-9FB3-365ACBB3D7AB
Enjoying the views

Mount Maunganui as usual dominates the scene, cruise ships clustered around the docks, and the endless channels and bays glistened in the afternoon light. Monarch butterflies flitted through the forest, and Catherine was in her element with her lens snapping away. It’s lovely to see her so happy, and breathing well at the moment (touching my head, ie wood!).

FA077187-E07F-4B0D-9733-57FB9ED5A22B
Monarch butterflies are everywhere
57E49DDC-5EBF-49A6-A274-9E15452768EC
A newly hatched butterfly drying its wings
03655556-7C70-46DC-AC6A-F0985B2ABEF6
The gardens are planted to attract these beauties
27EC6844-B0A8-463A-BF7A-F75ADFE3F69A
One of the many caterpillars feeding on a Swan Plant – they are ferocious eaters – not many of the plants had leaves left!

Oh what a relief to be here in these temperatures and not back in Australia (currently experiencing temperatures over 40 degrees centigrade in some areas!)! For New Zealand it is exceptionally warm, with the mercury going over 30 some days. But there always seems to be a cooling breeze that kicks in, and we have never felt too hot to stop us heading off on a jaunt. It’s really making us wonder about the future of Autralia for us, to be living there in the summer in a caravan. Not so good. Maybe a Plan B is called for? Let’s see.

On the way home we stopped off to top up with avocados from one of the many roadside stalls. They taste incredible freshly picked of course, so creamy and exploding with flavour. Then we got chatting to a couple who had just pulled up in their motorhome for the night in the most beautiful spot at Plummers Point, right on the edge of a well kept reserve, looking out over the bay towards Omokoroa.

Apparently their club has 80,000 members in New Zealand, and you can see why it’s so popular with so many awesome places to pull up (free!) as long as you have a self contained motorhome.

We bid them a good night and wandered back for yet another fantastic meal of fresh local produce whisked up by Richard. Oh…and a decent bottle of Cote du Rhone to wash it down of course! The local pinots come rather pricey for our everyday quaffing budget!

8-13 January: Meetings at the Mount

Author: Mrs A

Location: Omokoroa, Te Puna, Mount Maunganui, Whakatane and Ohope, New Zealand

Wednesday was dad and Sue’s sixth wedding anniversay, so we treated them to a special lunch at a local winery, Mill’s Reef. As we pulled into the car park we drove past a large black helicopter – apparently some guests really arrived in style! We later learned they had flown up from Christchurch in New Zealand’s south island…imagine doing that!

Despite ‘only’ arriving in a ten year old Ford Focus we all enjoyed our lunch and toasted the happy couple.

On Thursday, a long-time friend, Owen, was flying over to spend some time with his sister and brother-in-law, Kay and Frank in Mount Maunganui, about a half an hour drive south of where dad lives.

We met them for lunch at the Cider Factorie at Te Puna, and brought them back to dad’s house so they could check out the views from this side of Omokoroa.

Friday morning saw us heading down to Tauranga Airport, where Kay and Frank live in an apartment above a plane hanger. They’re both plane enthusiasts, and Frank’s passion is rebuilding old Cessna aircraft.

5716AF6B-D4A4-4381-8E2E-E8CFD61795F5
Frank shows us around his immaculate workshop and a photo gallery of many other aircraft he has restored and flown over the years

After a quick tour we all jumped into Frank and Kay’s four wheel drive for an explore down the coast. This was a bit of a trip down memory lane for Owen and Kay, who used to holiday in this area as children.E4491EC4-2099-4E63-98D3-D9920C815B34

Our first stop was Whakatane, a fishing port and popular home for retirees (this town boasts the most hours of sunshine in New Zealand). The mouth of the estuary is pretty treacherous with rocks and choppy waters – we watched a few boats running the gauntlet.

034BB9CA-521F-481B-99D3-123C7EE59EB5
Looking up towards Whatatane Heads

503BDC46-AAC0-46CC-B1ED-F3BBED4BA4E6
The calm of the harbour

A07A57C2-F61E-4276-8888-C55D2BCA6FCA
Owen looking out at an approaching boat

DF28815D-9ECD-40AB-8AE0-3D1EC5A21795
A couple of fishermen return through the choppy waters, Moutohora Island in the background

AAF9BA1E-B847-416B-B5A3-F225F3CAFC17
Magazine photo shoot

From here we continued south along the coast to Ohope, just around the headland.

By all accounts Ohope Beach had not changed a great deal – the beachside settlement was a little bigger, but still very pretty and natural with bush land reaching right down to the beach.

993BDCF8-3F1C-49FD-90FC-2E56C16A804F
Mrs A at the end of the beach – lovely warm water here

89185395-8A05-4E38-9EB9-BF06981FDDBA
Loving the contrast between the black sand and white wind blown silica with this driftwood

BC287892-C742-4F7B-AB78-9771F4730258
Frank and Kay, our generous hosts

C2088E7F-8767-4296-95B7-613EEF558725
OE & Mrs A

We stopped in town for some lunch before heading on back to the mount.

Later that evening, we headed into Mount Maunganui for dinner at a local restaurant, Fish Face…yes speciality food is fish. An old colleague of Mark’s from his SAP days, Kirstin, drove up from her home to join us. Lots of laughs, some tasty food and wine was enjoyed, and we all sensibly returned home for night caps rather than stumble in to one of the many nearby bars.

A4ADEAB2-636F-4792-A077-28B80A09FD16
Wearing my new pendant – handcrafted by one of dad & Sue’s neighbours from London Plane and NZ paua shell, silver chain gifted from Kay

3EC25A9D-3E1E-4EC6-8D16-03C7D6035C64
OE and Kay enjoying dinner

F1EB191B-8390-449D-9EAC-485D741033FD
Mr A sneaks in dessert accompanied by an espresso martini

Saturday morning called for some activity to work off all the excesses of the night before, so Mark, Owen and I borrowed some bikes and went on a ride. Owen is recovering from a nasty cycling accident which resulted in a broken shoulder, chipped elbow bone and nerve damage to his leg, so this was only the second time back on a bike in a couple of months.

We took it easy, making use of the off road cycle network to explore the coast around Tauranga harbour and tour around 15km.

C1AC9E10-A2EF-467B-9CE7-E4B0A6EA93B1
Team photo as we leave the airport

684C5DCD-1834-4325-91AB-69C6791357E8
Mr A and OE pedal along the boardwalk

713EC074-20CC-4465-80DC-CD3933D027C1
The rail bridge connecting Tauranga to Matapihi

451551B0-73BD-49C3-A60D-6CEA5125499E
Team photo crossing the bridge

F4A0D506-B33B-4B47-862B-7BB057F114E7
Nice view across the harbour towards the Mount

5DFD632A-E18F-4F33-8E09-479246541E68
White faced heron having a preening session on a rock

6D790749-4C0E-4F9A-B3AE-C882388E8813
Millions of dollars worth of yachts not being used

B01A6419-0A6D-4056-8E0D-68C49BEF5525
A delightful bronze sculpture of the Hairy Mclary characters – if you don’t know the books, look them up!

We returned for showers and joined Kay for lunch in Mount Maunganui and a wander around the shops.

Frank and Kay have a lovely library in their apartment with bifold windows that open up to look out over the runway. We enjoyed predinner wine and cheese while we watched the neighbours take their plane out for a flight, as you do!

9358D968-5328-4731-9E80-F702B1E307E5
Enjoying the refreshing breeze across the airport

5F82C17B-F0CF-483C-8E42-7583DCEFD31F
Biggles heads off for an early evening flight

9CB5683A-A2A3-4957-8E3B-553213149125
Capped off with a delicious dinner of rib eye, salad and new potatoes

Sunday morning saw Mark, Owen and I back on the bikes cycling into Mount Maunganui. I stopped off at a cafe to meet up with four local ladies who, like me, have idiopathic subglottic stenosis and are members of the support group I run. It’s always lovely to chat to locals and especially ladies who have gone through similar experiences. We had a good three hour catch up.

EBFC0F98-7BA8-4231-8012-B469138819EA
The first ever New Zealand iSGS meet up

Meanwhile, Mr A and Owen continued their cycle, before meeting up with Kay again for a beer at the fisherman’s club and lunch at an Asian restaurant.

We then cycled back to Kay and Frank’s, packed up the car and farewelled Owen as he headed off to fly back to Auckland, and then back to Melbourne. A fabulous long weekend for all of us.

6-7 January: Whanganui to Taupo and back to Omokoroa

Author: Mr A

Location: Whanganui, Motuoapa, Rotorua and Omokoroa

The drive up from the west coast port of Whanganui up to Taupo gave us some fantastic scenery. Plunging waterfalls, snow capped volcanoes (that have caused two of the worlds most violent eruptions), alpine vistas, and finally a lake boasting a surface area larger than Singapore! New Zealand just keeps throwing us into a sensory overload.

Mount Ruapehu – active volcano covered in snow.
The roads are not too busy around here…

We made a small diversion for a nostalgic visit to the Chateau at Tongariro where friends of ours got married. It still had all the charm we remembered so fondly.

Chateau Tongariro – we stayed here in February 2003 for friends Jenny & David’s wedding
The grand old house decked out in 1920s decadence, and playing the music too…
When we stayed here the mountain was decked in thick fog…we didn’t see it for three days!

We had kindly been invited to stay the night with a friend’s family who own a holiday house right on the shore of Lake Taupo. We’ve both stayed with them before, but it still took our breath away sitting in the lounge looking out at this view.

Looking across Taupo

I decided to take a kayak out for an explore in the late afternoon sunshine, and took advice from our hosts and found myself immersed in this wetland separated from the main lake by a narrow channel. I had one of those “I am so privileged to see this place” moments…stopped paddling and just drifted along in the absolute silence with only water birds for company.

A hidden corner of Taupo, where the water’s less than knee deep
Looking out towards the north of the caldera
This wetland is home to a very rare species of orchid – the Swamp Orchid

A cracking dinner of fresh NZ whitebait and prawns, with such good company, had us again reflecting on the ingredients that make you want to call somewhere home. I can certainly see why so many Kiwis come back after careers offshore. Yes the North Island is changing, certainly getting busier in parts, but the contrast to where we have travelled in the north and west of Australia in particular, is just so stark. The constantly changing scenery here for instance. In one day we have travelled through all of these remarkably different landscapes. The summer climate here is also such a literally refreshing change. Although averages are creeping up, we haven’t once felt we didn’t want to be outside in them in the day and usually they dipped enough at night to give us a good sleep. We also never seem to be far from a shop that can sell us fresh produce and a quality bottle of wine! Important things…makes you think…

However, even though the grass seems greener here, literally, there’s some things that aren’t as you would hope. For instance, in NZ you are nearly twice as likely to be killed in your vehicle than in Australia. New Zealand ended 2018 with its road toll at 382 – with 3.6 million light vehicles registered. In Australia we ended the year at 1,143 fatalities with 19.2M registered. We can ponder about why the huge difference – no research I could find covers this scope, but having driven here for a month, driver behaviour leaves me feeling very nervous. For instance, almost every other vehicle that I watch come up in the mirror tailgates us. It seems second only to rugby as a national sport!

Secondly, we have decided to miss out on a number of walks/sights because of a concern about the security of our vehicle and its contents. The glass of smashed car windows was littering many of the car parks we saw at the start of walks. Car break ins are all too common in the tourist spots. Many of the reviews we read of places we wanted to go had people reporting car thieves working in the area. Not good for brand New Zealand.

Having said all of that, we both went out on the kayaks in the morning and revisited the wetlands, which looked different again in the morning light and had one of the most memorable paddles ever in this land of outsndaing natural beauty.

A very different looking Lake Taupo greeted us at 7am
Beautiful still waters reflecting moody skies
Mr A paddles towards the secret entrance into the wetlands
Paddling in the clouds
The silence and stillness is breathtaking
Mrs A is impressed…worth getting out of bed for!
Somehow the cloud cover adds to the overall atmosphere
Yes, we are having fun!

We paddled back to the house for showers and a cup of tea with our hosts, before heading off on our way. We lunched beside the Aratiatia Rapids on our way back to Omokoroa – literally just happening to turn off the road and arrive as the power station was releasing a huge amount of water . We didn’t realise it would only last 15 minutes, so failed to take any photos – it wasn’t ‘too’ bad a view once the dam was closed again though! Top tip for future travellers in this area – check out the release times and get there to have a look – it was impressive!

AratiatiaRapids with their ‘standard’ amount of water – you can see the darker areas of rock where the water had previously gushed through about 3 metres deeper and much faster!
The incredible blue-green waters down river, just past the hydro power station which controls the flow

New Zealand has so much to offer the traveller, just be careful on the roads and park your car somewhere safe, with plenty of witnesses!

 

3-5 January: Waterfalls, forest and rapids – three days of adventuring

Author: Mrs A

Location: Tongariro National Park and Pipiriki

Thursday: After paying a visit to the local supermarket and cheese deli in Cambridge, we started to wind our way across country towards Ohakune, on the southern reaches of Tongariro National Park. It was a spectacular drive, travelling through New Zealand’s now familiar lush green farmland, with volcanic looking hills.

Fabulous view over Lake Taupo as we headed south

As we headed through Tongariro National Park the cloud descended and all hope of seeing the snow capped peaks disappeared with it. We arrived in Ohakune around 2.30pm, checking into a motel for the night. As we parked up we recognised the view from six years ago – we’ve stayed at the same place before!

We then drove up into Tongariro National Park, firstly doing a short walk to see a splendid waterfall where the Mangawhero plunges down into the valley.

The water plunging over the cliff – all snow melt, so we weren’t game for a dip!

From here we drove further down the mountain, and did a longer walk to Waitonga Falls. This hike took us through native mountain beech, climbing up high to an alpine bog. Unfortunately there was some wind up there, as on a calm day, there are some fabulous views of Mount Ruapehu reflected in the pools. We then climbed down steeply to the falls, a chance for a little water photography and a cup of tea before we headed back.

We needed all the climbing after our car journey…or so we convinced ourselves!
Walking over the alpine bog
I climb down to capture a different angle
Such a lovely river
Restricted myself to just a couple of photos
A nice cup of tea

After all that activity we headed out to a local eatery for dinner. Strangely named The Blind Finch, the restaurant calls itself a ‘hamburgeria’ selling a variety of interesting burgers (Mark had the Vietnamese – a pork mince burger with crackling and Vietnamese slaw, I had a Japanese version with Teryiaki beef) plus locally brewed beers and New Zealand wines. A great meal, and a fabulous view of the setting sun reflecting on Ruapehu’s snow capped peak as we walked back to the motel.

Mt Ruapehu glowing at sunset
Ohakhune as the sun sets

Friday: We arose early to do one more hike before we checked out, heading back into the national park, and doing a short walk through the Mangawhero Forest. We’re loving the cool lushness of the undergrowth here, every tree dripping in mosses and orchids, the ever present flutter and tweet of birds accompanying the rushing of the Mangawhero River. The track crossed a large volcanic crater on our way through, changing the fauna as we went.

Did you know Mr A is a bit of a tree hugger? Especially with a giant like this…
The river winds peacefully through the forest
More water….
Our last glimpse of the river before we head off

After showering and checking out of the motel, we were away again, heading just a short way down to Pipiriki, a tiny little village on the banks of the Whanganui River. We decided to head off for a walk along the riverside. River ‘side’ in this case, is a relative term, as the cliffs alongside the river are 50-100 metres high, offering great views, but a terrifying death if the ground gives way! We did about 7km return trip, before returning for a late lunch.

Pretty special views up the Whanganui River
Abandoned shed on a farm at the end of the trail
Amazing skies
Mr A strolling along

We had a relaxing afternoon – there was no phone or internet access, so Mark read while I practiced a little drawing on my new iPad. I love how I can pretty much duplicate what I do on paper – still learning to use it and getting used to a smaller medium, but had fun.

Our little camp site
My artists impression of the view from my green chair in the shade…later to become the helicopter landing pad!

We had some neighbours join us for dinner in the evening, given we were camped beside the picnic table. Mother and son from The Netherlands, Claudia and Fabian joined us for a lot of laughter and a glass of wine, and medical student Igor from Berlin, Germany shared our dinner, having earned it with a 40km cycle today after completing the Tongariro Crossing (an 8 hour mountain hike) yesterday.

We were just heading to bed, when the campground owner came over to tell us there was a medical emergency, and a helicopter was on its way to rush another guest to Palmerston North hospital with a suspected heart attack. We moved the car and packed away the tent, and waited in anticipation.

After about 90 minutes of waiting, the helicopter landed in the carpark alongside us, a challenging night landing, and the patient loaded up. We chatted to the pilot, who told us he had night vision goggles to help navigate and as ex-Air Force was used to challenging situations.

The calm before the excitement…the ambulance awaits the helicopter
The helicopter finally arrives…
Ready to load the patient…

Soon the excitement was all over and we put up our tent and went to sleep.

Saturday: Another fine day dawned, with early fog drifting down the river valley clearing to blue skies. Mr A rustled up a fine breakfast while I prepared some lunch to take with us – a river adventure was ahead. By 10.30am we were whizzing up the Whanganui River on a jet boat, along with our Dutch friends and a German couple, two large Canadian canoes and two small white water kayaks loaded on the back.

Heading up the river on the jet boat

It took us about three and a half hours to paddle back down the river, with about six sets of rapids, including two ‘fifty-fifties’. These are so named because one in two paddlers comes down upside down! Fortunately neither of us tipped out – possibly because we had lower centres of gravity being the only people in whitewater kayaks! Nevertheless, we felt pretty proud of ourselves as we climbed out after 15.5km and headed off for showers.

Paddling past one of many waterfalls
Fabian and Claudia attempting to paddle their canoe up a waterfall…it’s no wonder they came acropper on the rapids!
Claudia doing all the work while Fabian relaxes in the front
That little yellow dot is Mr A, dwarfed by the valley sides
Mr A again dwarfed by what is called ‘the dress circle’. The line where the foliage starts up above him is where the river flooded to in 2015
I come on through some smaller gravel races…some canoeists tipped over on here even!
A little rock scrambling took us to a waterfall in a cave at the side of the valley
As we paddle down river we try to imagine the paddle steamers making it up this way in the early 1900s…back then it was known as ‘The Rhine of the South’. The first regular steam boat service started in 1892, and they were the only real way to see this area prior to the river road opening in 1934, winched along the very shallow parts of the river, and cruising on through the deeper parts…
Made it without tipping out once! Yay team Anderson!

Our Dutch friends, Claudia and Fabian were less fortunate, tipping out on at least two occasions on their journey, and we watched several other groups having unplanned dips on their trips back too.

Once clean, Mark and I set off down the 79km Whanganui River Road towards Whanganui. The road wound alongside the river south of Pipiriki, through interesting Maori villages, each with a meeting house – we often heard singing as we travelled through.

Beautiful scenery accompanied us the whole way, culminating in a fabulous lookout from which we could see all the way to the snow capped peaks of Mt Ruapeau.

Looking all the way back up the river valley

We finally arrived at Whanganui feeling tired at about 5pm, and drove down to the windswept coast in the hope of setting up camp. The wind was incredibly strong, and we could imagine the tent canvas flapping all night long. It took us moments to change our minds and decide on alternative accomodation for the night. A quick Google and we ended up at the Riverview Motel – just fabulous. For NZ$100 we had a one bedroom apartment, with fully equipped kitchen, lounge (with lazy boy chairs – how much did we appreciate those?!) and dining area. Just perfect.

We had a relaxing evening, spaghetti bolognaise, a glass of red wine and the new series of Travellers on Netflix. Perfect. What an incredible day.

30 December – 2 January: Hello 2019!

Author Mr A

Location: The Bay of Plenty, New Zealand

30 December – It was the day before New Year’s Eve and we headed out into the hills to have morning tea with our friends’ parents, on their kiwi fruit orchard. No kiwi involved incedentally, just lots of childhood stories about David and his siblings, and a tour of the house, accompanied by delicious scones and jam.After a couple of hours of fine hospitality we farewelled Pat and Bill and headed off down to the Wairoa River. Initially we had thought we could cruise on down on our packrafts from the upper reaches, but Bill had advised us of flaws in our plan – firstly, the river is tidal, so we would be starting against the water, and secondly, its about 14km – about three times as far as we usually paddle in our inflatable packrafts.

Instead we set off from near the coast and cruised on up with the tide, enjoying the singing skylarks and the swooping swamp harriers over the waters’ edge. Just a short 4km paddle was all we needed, escaping the noise of the highway and relishing being close to nature.

We quickly head away from the noise of State Highway 2
Paddling up the river with the tide, trying not to disturb the water fowl

31 December – Before we knew it, the end of 2018 was upon us, and we decided to head up into the hills behind our base at Omokoroa for a wander through Puketoki Reserve, a stunning little native forest haven, saved from the saw in 1925. Catherine of course captured some lovely memories for us to share.

Enjoying the cool of the forest after the heat on the coast

1 January 2019 – Happy New Year! After a relatively quiet (for us) New Year’s Eve we were up for some paddling out on the glorious Bay of Plenty. Catherine’s dad offered to give us a lift to a Pahoia Domain beach, a couple of bays north of us, from which we then paddled back to his house.

Well, what a start to the the year! It was an awesome paddle. Our packrafts were inflated quick smart and we launched into the bath warm shallow water.

We are so delighted with these little boats, and pleased we changed them over to these new models from Kokopelli. Much smaller packed size means easier to carry around, and a narrower beam makes them a little quicker – well relatively – we are aren’t going to break any paddling records, but thats not our intention. We just dawdled along checking out the incredible scenery.

This grand mansion came into view. Wow….but are the owners happy?!

Investigations are being made into who might own this beauty!

2 January – This morning we packed up the car and set off with a reasonably vague plan to explore over four or five days parts of the North Island we haven’t made it to on previous trips. Our destination today was inland and over the rugged range that runs down the east coast of the Bay of Plenty to the small town of Cambridge.

We had read about the ‘Te Awa River Ride’, a cycle route following the mighty Waikato river, with the most scenic section being between Cambridge and Lake Karapiro, where the river has been dammed.

We hired bikes from the local information centre and set off on the “river ride”. Only one thing missing – the river. After riding through the town, with mostly no bike lanes, we roads along a long straight path by the side of a main road for 90% of the ride, finally arriving at the river.The picture of the ride that appears in all the marketing literature is actually the only really scenic 200 metre section on the whole trip (28km return!)!

Just in case you had read like me that “Cambridge is the cycling centre of New Zealand” and were panning to come – I would reconsider.

It ended up at a very cycle unfriendly road with cars racing past on narrow lanes…we turned back!

We treated ourselves to dinner out at the local Indian restaurant which helped Cambridge to redeem its reputation somewhat.

Onwards tomorrow to explore new locations. We do love a good road trip!

23-29 December: Christmas week round-up

Author: Mrs A

Location: Bay of Plenty, New Zealand

It’s been a fabulous week with family and friends, meeting neighbours and getting tips and hints for future travels. We have also managed to catch up with friends from Sydney into the bargain, with a couple of lunches enjoyed.

Mr A and I have done some more paddling and hiking throughout the last week, making the most of the weather, which has been typical New Zealand (rain-sun-rain-sun!).

We had a great paddle up the nearby Waipapa River, timing it perfectly with the tides helping us in and out on our trip.

Heading off across the glassy bay
Mr A heading up the river
Enjoying an apple for breakfast in the pouring rain
Mr & Mrs and the bumper boats

Christmas Day was glorious, with a delicious family dinner and an afternoon walk to work it off.

Christmas cheers around the tree
A Tui drinking nectar on the flowers
Stormy skies over the Kaimai Range
A king tide brings the water up onto the reserve…the low lying house owners would have been nervous
Rowing boats waiting to take owners out to the sail boats
“I saw three ships not sailing by…on Christmas Day in the morning….”

On Boxing Day we caught up with friends in the morning, and spent an afternoon walking in the Kaimai Range, not far from Omokoroa:

Seconds from the car you enter lush forest
Heading off down a path
Boardwalks help avoid much of the boggy mud…
Not all the streams have bridges though

On Thursday, stepbrother Simon, Sue’s eldest son, came to visit, bringing wine and gifts. A delicious family brunch was followed by a short walk.

A fan-tail chases flies as we walk through the woods
Summer berries in the hedgerow
A peaceful paradise along Omokoroa beach
A pair of eagle rays entertain us as they hunt in the shallows
Never tire of these views!

Friday saw us heading about an hour’s drive north up to Karangahake Gorge to catch up with friends Sara and Barny who were passing through on their Christmas holiday. After a pub lunch we went for a short walk to some waterfalls, and then a circuit walk through the gorge:

Owharoa Falls – known as bridal-veil falls for their perfect distribution of water
Sara, Barny and team Anderson enjoying the refreshing spray from the water
The roaring Ohinemuri River
The path is pretty narrow here – attention required!
A beautiful short walk before we farewelled Sara and Barny on their way up the Coromandel

We’ve really enjoyed exploring this area, but will be ready to head off a little further afield next week, packing up our tent (and hopefully no punctured mattresses!) to explore some more.

We hope you had a lovely week, whether you celebrate Christmas or whether you just took the opportunity to spend some quality time with friends and family. Seasons greetings from us both!

20-22 December: Continuing our exploration of the Bay of Plenty

Author: Mrs A

Location: Bay of Plenty, New Zealand North Island

Thursday morning reminded us why New Zealand is so lush and green, with the heavens opening as we awoke. Fortunately we were prepared for inclement weather and had planned a day that didn’t require sunshine. It began with a pedicure for me, while Mr A did a little shopping, and then we headed to Mount Manganui.

Driving around this area is a slow process, with one main road heading down the coast and an ever increasing population as people move out of Auckland to the coast. We’re getting used to Google Maps telling us there is a ‘6-15 minute delay’ on every route we take!

We enjoyed lunch in Mount Manganui, one of the more civilised areas nearby, with a choice of shops and eateries. It’s one of the ports cruise ships call into when travelling down the coast. It’s such a shame more has not been made of the waterways in terms of public transport – we’d love to just jump on a passenger ferry across from Omokoroa to here, but no, the only access is via road.

The rain disappeared once we returned back to dad’s and we headed back down to the bay for a walk. Sorry if we are repeating ourselves photographically but the scenery is so lovely!

Late afternoon sunshine – this is around 5pm
Sacred kingfisher not hanging around for a photo
Ring-necked doves like hunting for snacks on the white sand
Walking across the golf course wetlands
Walking across the golf course wetlands

We finished off the day with a dinner of delicious New Zealand green-lipped mussels, always a favourite when we visit these parts, and well worth the effort of cleaning and scraping.

Mr A on debearding and cleaning duties

Friday was another showery day, but Mr A and I were determined to head off into the Kaimai-Mamaku Forest Park for a decent walk.

We had only walked 50 metres and we found the sign we didn’t want to see ‘Track Closed’!

Oh no! Track closed!

Fortunately we knew this particular walk was a circuit, so we thought we would attempt a return hike from the other end – into the Waitawheta Valley and up to Waitawheta Gorge.

We started off through picturesque farmland
Expecting Gandalf to appear around the corner at any moment!

The path wound its way through farmland, bordered by a beautiful babbling river which we followed the whole way. We climbed over styles and through gates, the experience feeling very English!

A waterfall plunges out of the side of the gorge, crossing our path

As we entered the forest park the scenery changed, with lush tree ferns, red and silver beech, kamahi and kauri trees.

Mr A admires the views from alongside the Waitawheta River
Mrs A heads off along the track
The rain draws in, increasing the water flow and the overall atmosphere in the gorge.

The Waitawheta River was ever our companion, tumbling over rocks and carving its way through the gorge. We followed the route via which early settlers transported the Kauri tree wood, chopping down magnificent giant trees, often over 2000 years old, and shipping them around the world for building.

We crossed the river several times via swing bridges, evidence of the logging history visible in the rusty rail tracks and old struts from former bridges. A replica of a bogie, a rolling contraption which ran on tracks to carry tree trunks, helped demonstrate the area’s historic past.

Beautiful colours in the ferns alongside the track, glistening in the rain
Path or stream?
One of the most visually rewarding walks we have done

At 10km but predominantly flat walking, this was not a challenging hike, but it was definitely picturesque, and the wet weather only added to the atmospheric ambience. Highly recommended if you’re in this area.

Saturday: Three days before Christmas, we were determined to not head out in the car today, assuming the roads would be even busier than usual. Instead we took off on the short 5km circuit walk from the bottom of dad and Sue’s garden.

Mr A strolling around the headland…can you spot the photobombing Tui?

It’s just ridiculously pretty, this friendly local community all pooling together to take care of the pathways, raising money for new steps down to the water after storms destroyed old ones, and one lady telling us we were sat on a bench her husband had constructed ‘just to hide an eyesore there’! No eyesores on our walk…just gorgeous views.

Views upon views…
Parkland or walk?
How many blues can we see?.
And hardly a soul on the whole walk…just serenity…

We had lunch at a waterside cafe mid way around, before returning to dad’s for a relaxing afternoon. What a little slice of paradise this is!

December 18-19: Exploring McLaren Falls

Author: Mr A

Location: McLaren Falls, Tauranga, New Zealand

It was time to head for the hills. After a few days of indolent pottering around the coast, we packed up the camping gear and set off for an overnight trip up to a small park we had briefly visited once before, but in the poring rain.

We had booked sunshine and shine it did. A glorious day to be outside smelling that distinctive aroma of fresh grass that NZ has. The park is only a short drive from the city of Tauranga (Bay of Plenty on the North Island), so makes an easy getaway for families at weekends… which is why we chose a Tuesday!

A site of our own…
Lakeside views, a picnic table, gas BBQ and a private toilet…what more could we want?
Plenty of black swans here
Tuis enjoying the nectar

We had one of the three camping areas all to ourselves and soon had the little hike tent up, mattresses inflated, and a brew on. 

It was time to have a poke about. The plan was to have paddled up the lake to see the famous glow worms, but the howling wind put that idea to bed and we set off for a tramp, as they call it here.

…The Kiwis also call pens ‘pins’…but that’s another story. 

Following the lakeside walk
Hiking up the Sunrise Track
Foxgloves flowing in the shade, reminding us of English walks

Glorious views assailed our eyeballs from every direction. Catherine always says it looms like a child’s drawing of the countryside, with perfectly rounded hills and cows posing in just the right spots. 

Ridiculously green countryside
The view from Pine Tree Knoll Lookout

We spotted a brood of Canada geese goslings – clearly mum and dad hadn’t read the fauna manual for their breed which prescribes no more than 9 chicks. They had a long line of 17! They had clearly been busy little geese. 

Successful goose family

The wind continued and made cooking dinner on our little stove quite interesting. But we triumphed and Mrs A again managed to turn dinner into a sumptuous feast of chicken saté and fresh veggies with quinoa nestling in a bed of brown and black rice. Flipping lovely. 

One burner dinner is served!

It was soon time to snuggle down for the night. Remember the part about the mattresses being blown up? So now mine wasn’t and clearly had sprung a leak on one of my bikepacking trips and I was so dog tired I hadn’t noticed. Well I did certainly notice this night, let me tell you. Despite having more padding than I used to, it was a crap night’s sleep!

Wednesday: Ah well…a breakfast of beans and mushies livened me up and we packed away our camp and headed out to see the falls themselves. We couldnt help visualising our friend David, who grew up locally on a farm, poised on the rocks with his brothers all daring each other to jump. 

The picturesque falls
In a week’s time, these will be full of families playing!

A short drive back to Omokoroa and an afternoon granddad nap seemed appropriate.

…I know..

Even the visiting godwits thought it was a good time for a nap…!

.

December 15-17: Natural New Zealand doesn’t disappoint

Author: Mrs A

Saturday: Another spectacular morning welcomed us, the water glistening  just metres from the end of the garden. Of course this meant we were again tempted out for a paddle. This time we packed up our boats into backpacks and walked across to the other side of the peninsular to launch. As we reached the other side we noticed the sky darkening, and a quick look at the weather radar showed a major storm heading our way.

Heading up the hill – colour coordinated shoes and backpack!

We decided the water might not be the best place to be if this hit, and changed our plans to a hike, following the coastal path around Omokoroa’s headland.  That’s the great thing about these boats you can carry – they’re so light that it doesn’t really matter if your plans change, it was not too arduous to take them with us.

Mr A heads off along the coastal pathway
Stunning views with the tide out in the early morning light
More lovely views, looking out to Motohua Island

We tracked around a beautiful walkway, following steps and grassy pathways, all the way around and back to home – around 7km all up. The storm didn’t eventuate fortunately, instead changing direction and heading out to sea.

Mr A pausing to enjoy the view up a steep stairway

Sunday afternoon we decided to attempt the backpack-paddle adventure again, with dad and Sue joining us to walk over to Cooney Reserve, where we inflated the boats on a white sand beach and launched off.

Mark heading off from the shore
Winding through the yachts
Spot Mount Manganui in the background

The water was shallow and so warm – easily around 30 degrees centigrade – and the local children were having a great time playing in the water and jumping off the wharves.

Sparkling clear warm waters

The Kokopelli boats are so easy to paddle, more so even than our last packrafts – they’re slightly narrower so not quite so susceptible to the breeze on flat water. As we rounded the headland the nor-easterly was quite brisk, but we made it around without too much effort.

Having so much fun in our little boats. Behind us the little bay 100 metres from dad and Sue’s back fence.

This is such a picturesque time of year to visit New Zealand. The Pohutukawa trees (known as the native Christmas tree) are all in bloom, filled with nectar loving birds such as the native Tui and the introduced rosellas. Ever swooping in front of us were a pair of sacred kingfishers,  entertaining us with their antics as they caught little fish in the shallows. Apparently kingfish and snapper are common around here.

Picturesque Bay of Plenty
Flowering Pohutukawa trees
Mr A entranced by the Sacred Kingfishers

Our day concluded with drinks and nibbles, as is the civilised way!

A glass of red to finish the day before dinner

Monday  dawned and Mr A and I attempted  some shopping in Tauranga. The town is looking a little scruffy and sad, with most of the bigger shops having moved out of the town to a big estate. We managed to get a few bits and pieces for our upcoming camping trips, then returned to Omokoroa for the afternoon. 

Looking down the side of dad and Sue’s house towards the harbour

Dad and Sue spent their afternoon in the garden, making their already stunning display even prettier with pruning, feeding and mowing. It is definitely a hobby which displays its rewards. It is hard to believe they have only been moved in since  the beginning of May this year, the garden at that stage being more of a building site. Many of these plants started off as little cuttings brought from their old home or gifts from friends and neighbours. It looks amazing today, with much potential ahead too.

Dad hard at work in the garden
Some of the beautiful flowers in the garden

Mr A and I decided to walk down to the harbour and explore the bay on foot, picking our way along the beach alongside the golf course. 

More native Christmas trees flower along the sandy beach
Looking out towards the Kaimai range

There’s plenty of bird life here – with literally hundreds of black swans in the bay, white faced herons, flocks of bar-tailed godwits (flown here all the way from Alaska, over 11,000km away) and red-legged pied stilts. All this is surrounded by the stunning Kaimai ranges, making for a very unique location.

Pied stilts circling us to check how frightening we are

We sat a while on the edge of the water, watching the birds circle around nervously before deciding we weren’t too big of a threat and settling a short way away on the sand.

A rather grand house alongside the bay…we’d love to learn its story…

What a very special place this is. 

The sun setting over the reserve, golf course and bay.

December 9-14: Goodbye Sydney, Hello NZ!

Author: Mr A

Location: Sydney, Australia, Auckland & Omokoroa, New Zealand

We said goodbye to Sydney in traditional fashion with lots of lovely catch ups with friends who we won’t see for a while. Breakfast at The Boathouse in La Peruse reminded us of how little of Sydney we really know. What an awesome spot, and a very lardy breakfast helped blow away the cobwebs from the night before.

Then in the evening it was a home cooked curry from friends Aisha and Clive. I won’t attempt to describe how Pakistani food is different to Indian, all I know is the former has now found an equally tasty place in our culinary heart as the latter! Yummy..who knew something called ‘balls of happiness’ would be so tasty…?

Aisha and Clive’s fabulous view from their balcony
The sparkling city views at night

Then it was time to say goodbye to Miss Tasmania and drop her off with her Christmas hosts, Rosemary and Richard. Another fab meal appeared and was tackled with gusto. We are so lucky to have friends who we know will love her staying and exploiting their warm laps during the festive season.

Princess Tasmania enjoying the sunshine before we whisked her off to Hornsby

Finally the day we had long prepared for arrived, and we were off to the airport. We wanted to do a long trip to New Zealand, managing three weeks on a couple of occasions just left us hungry for more. So this will be a six week extravaganza, thanks to the generous hosting from Catherine’s dad Richard and his wife Sue.

After a laborious check in and truly awful food on the plane, a decision was made that LATAM airlines wont be on our Christmas list! Very ordinary…but we arrived in one piece and our 60kg of checked luggage (containing inflatable packrafts, camping gear and the many types of clothes suitable for the land of the long white cloud) didn’t carry on to Santiago, so that was a bonus.

We arrived at Sue and Richard’s house full of curiosity to see how it looked, since the last time we saw it was in the construction phase. Wow….what a home. Just check out the location, the views, the garden. I think we will manage here!

Looking up at their house from the reserve
Richard and Sue enjoying their view
Customary cheese and wine nibbles before dinner
Dusk falls across the reserve and neighbouring golf course with magnificent skies

It was up bright and early to try out our new packrafts. A short stroll across the reserve at the end of the garden and then across the tidal flats and we were on our way. This was their first time in the water, but all went well and we think we will get a lot of good use from these lightweight (less than 2kg each) that pack up into a day pack.

Looking back towards the reserve and where Richard and Sue live (and our new boats!)
Pulling away from the Omokoroa headland, the island behind Catherine
King tides have sculpted a new coastline here (including dismantling some cliff edge properties)
Pied Cormorants taking off at the sight of us

We headed out hugging the shore and immediately fell back in love with the Bay of Plenty. The scenery is just so magnificent, with all the winding waterways framed by the Kinea Mountains. The vegetation is so lush, the air so fresh…and no flies! The bird life was prolific, and we just pootled along, as you do in a packraft on flat water (they are not a fast boat in these conditions). But we weren’t in a rush and just loved drinking in the beauty of this place. We consider making a dash across the open water to Matacama Island, but with no life jackets and little idea of the current played it safe and headed back to our launch point.

We were invited over to a Christmas party at the neighbours’ house and watched a massive electrical storm play out over the bay. Just as we headed back to Richard and Sue’s house, the heavens opened, and I mean opened! This was an incredible downpour, locals saying they had never seen anything like it in their lifetime. I think that phrase is going to be used a lot as our weather patterns continue to change. We have seen our fair share of rain on our trips here, but this was extreme.

Anyway, we are prepared with all the gear and (in my case a least)…no idea :).

Onwards to our next phase of adventures down under!