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10 June: Catriona has a birthday to remember

Author: Mrs A

Location: Loro Piceno, Le Marche, Italy

Monday: Catriona’s birthday is the event that had brought us all together on this occasion, and what a place to celebrate. Our friends’ spectacular house and grounds we are staying in has ever changing views over the the valley, buzzards and swallows constantly soaring overhead. At night, fireflies light up the undergrowth and there is a nightingale that sings beautifully after dark.

The terrace and pool have views to die for, and there are multiple zones to sit in and relax, surrounded by beautifully groomed gardens and an olive grove below.

A house and pool with a multi million dollar view

We had a lovely birthday breakfast for Catriona with strawberries and yoghurt, keeping it healthy in anticipation of more delights to come, allowing Catriona to open presents and cards and Mr A to read out a poem he had composed, in special birthday tradition.

After a little refreshing pool time I accompanied Catriona, John, Stuart and Karen back down to Abbadia di Fiastra to show them around there. We explored the church with its frescos dating back to the 1500s before taking a stroll along the avenue of mulberry trees and looping back around the fields.

The walkers

Birthday girl enjoying the serenity

Very quiet on a Monday morning

Returning for a light lunch it was a relaxing afternoon had before G&T o’clock.

Mel and Catriona

G&T to start…

Mr & Mrs A enjoying the view

Full team: Barney, Karen, Mel, Mr A, Catriona, John, Mrs A and Stuart
Karen and Stuart enjoying the view

Mark and I had bought Catriona a magnum of champagne from Pannier when we were in France, which she kindly shared with us all (given she would have to abandon all her clothes in order to take it home!) – deliciously good memories there!

Birthday girl with champagne

Before long it was time for Catriona’s birthday dinner, cooked by a private chef at the house. We don’t think you could find a better restaurant than this!

  • Full menu:

    • Warm asparagus salad, lemon dressing with crispy pancetta and crutons

    • Pappardelle, pork ragu with mushrooms and fresh herbs

    • Roasted beef with mixed vegetables

    • Chocolate texture with cherry compote and roasted hazelnuts

    Catriona’s private chef, Fabrizio preparing our entree of asparagus

    Fine views across the valley

    Surrounded by views and flowers, the table is set for dinner

    The village lighting up behind us
    Amazing menu in a great setting

    The fine wine flowed and the music got louder…there was dancing and laughter and I think Catriona’s next decade was entered into in fine style!

    Fabrizio joins us for a post cheffing beer before he heads off
    Catriona, Karen and I boogie on the ‘dance floor’
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    8 – 9 June: Enjoying a little piece of paradise with friends

    Author: Mrs A

    Location: Loro Piceno, Le Marche, Italy

    Saturday: It was a dusty start to the morning after a fun Friday night out with Mel and Barney in Loro Piceno, with delicious food followed by dancing to a live band on the cobbled streets.

    Exploring the streets of Loro Piceno
    May explain the sore head on Saturday morning…Varnelli – similar to ouzo…
    Fabulous cover band at La Taverna, singing a wide variety of songs in English

    Mel had booked a haircut for me in a local village, and with none of the staff speaking English I was pleased Google Translate worked well enough for me to get the cut I wanted and not end up with a shaved head!

    Our friends from the UK arrived early afternoon, successfully finding the house and enjoying a light lunch as we all caught up on news.

    In the evening Mel and Barney had booked us a table at a local restaurant, Casa Azzurra. It is set around a pretty courtyard, with delicious food and wine.

    Pink Prosecco to commence the evening
    Enjoying our aperitif
    Casa Azzurra

    Sunday: The eight of us piled in to two cars and headed up to Mount Sibillini National Park, a hour’s drive away. It was a warm day, around 35 degrees in the valley, but as we climbed we were relieved as the temperature dropped to the late 20s.

    Our first stop was at Lago di Fiastra (Lake Fiastra), the main reservoir for the region. The turquoise waters look quite striking, surrounded by mountains and beaches. There were quite a few people swimming in the water and picnicking on the shore.

    John enjoying the view in a field of wildflowers
    Karen, Mel and Stuart enjoying the view

    Many of the buildings in this area are still damaged from the two major earthquakes in 2016. On the winding road up the mountains there was extensive evidence of work done to shore up the cliffs and prevent rockfalls and landslides, and many buildings remained abandoned, shored up by steel cables and wooden braces.

    Church and buildings unsuitable for occupation post earthquake

    We continued a short way up the mountains to Rifugio di Tribbio, a lovely rustic restaurant Mel and Barney had found. What a gem! There’s no way you would stumble across this as a casual visitor without the local knowledge. There we feasted on three generous courses and two litres of wine for the grand cost of about €160 between the eight of us (AU$33/£18 a head). We sat outside on a bench table with great views across the mountains.

    Views of the nearby ruins of Magalotti castle

    After lunch we wound our way up the mountains even further, found a shady parking spot and headed off for a walk. It’s a glorious time of year in the mountains, with wildflowers in every corner.

    Wild peonies (Paeonia officinalis) growing on a limestone slope
    Every square metre is covered in flowers – pinks, mauves, purples, yellows…so pretty
    Lovely orchids
    Wild Narcissus (Narcissus poeticus)

    We did a lovely circuit walk – steep on the way up and blissfully downhill on the return loop, helping us burn a few lunchtime calories and enjoy the clean mountain air.

    Wondering whether the last glass of wine was wise!
    The walkers – minus Barney – L-R Mrs A, Mr A, Catriona, John, Stuart, Karen and Mel
    Looking back at the lowlands which look rather hilly when you’re down there!

    We drove back down the mountains and into Loro Piceno for an evening cocktail at La Cantina, a bar with a terrace boasting amazing views over the valley and out towards Mel and Barney’s house. We then headed home for an early night in preparation for celebrating Catriona’s big birthday tomorrow, the reason for this gathering of friends.

    Enjoying the views and drinks
    Catriona tries out a swing chair
    Karen and Catriona try out their first Aperol Spritz
    Beers for the boys – Stuart
    John
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    5-7 June: Our introduction to Le Marche

    Author: Mr A

    Location: Abbadia di Fiastra, Le Marche, Italy

    Wednesday: We have friends of friends who have kindly invited us and some of our friends (with it so far?) to stay with them in eastern Italy in the region of Le Marche (pronounced lay markay). To be honest, until they gave us their address we had no idea where that was, or even pronounce it. Well now we do and what a find it has been.

    Le Marche doesn’t roll off the tourist tongue like Tuscany, and the thankfully the coaches aren’t rolling down the streets just yet in this region…. We arrived via the excellent west to east route along SS77. A dual carriageway with tunnel after tunnel bored through the mountains that run in a chain down this part of central Italy.

    We were making for a campsite our friends had suggested in the grounds of an old abbey and country park near to their village. We had given ourselves a couple of days to explore the area and get things prepared for the onslaught before everyone else arrived.

    We arrived to find a beautifully near deserted camping area, with only a couple of other vans there. We picked our spot and had just set up the chairs…as a motorhome drove right next to us completely blocking our view. I gave him my best evil eye and exaggerated “what the ….” shrug…he moved off when Catherine joined in! She’s a terror…

    Time for lunch

    So with view restored we were soon visited by a young cat who was clearly Italian given his chattiness and general exuberance! He was to become our constant companion over the next two days..,well until someone else pulled up he thought might feed him…

    There goes our last tin of tuna…

    It was time for our customary exploration on two wheels. What a ride we had, as we came round corner after corner with a new vista of perfectly green fields opening up…and the odd snow capped mountain! This was cycling heaven.

    Fields of spinach

    We made our way through the park, exploring Roman ruins, admiring the bird life, and smelling the wild flowers.

    Thursday: The next day we went further afield through several of the nearby villages. And not a tour bus in sight…

    Yes, still snow up there
    More fields of poppies looking towards more hilltop villages…

    The castle in Colmurano
    A couple of happy cyclists

    in the late afternoon we headed out again, I had spotted a winery within striking distance of the bikes.

    Now that’s a decent driveway!
    The terrace tasting area with fabulous views
    Murola tasting room
    Enjoying a few drops of red…yes we invested in a case and a half
    A post tasting tour around the barrels and bottling plant

    After some initial confusion about what we wanted, as I had asked for a “wine tasting”, which apparently in Italy is more of a wine experience with food (and €15-20 a head), not a tasting with the purpose of trying before you buy. We embarked on our mission to stock up with some more wine before the rest of the troops made it here. It’s a tough job but someone has to do it. And what a great selection of wines they had, set in beautiful grounds. Our host Anna even offered to deliver our wine to the campsite! Now thats a service I doubt you’d find at your average Tuscan posh as you like winery.

    We think we will like it here!

    A fantastic cycle home to Truffy

    Friday we did a little more exploring on foot, taking a look at the monastery and abbey, and taking some of the footpaths at a slower pace, listening to the birds, smelling the flowers and generally just enjoying the peace before the storm.

    Poppies are everywhere splashing red into the fields
    Wild roses
    Inside the abbey

    Our friends Melinda and Barney arrived at around 5pm to escort us to their home in Loro Piceno, and tomorrow four more friends arrive from the UK. It’s all going to get a lot busier around here!

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    5 June: Spellbound in Spello

    Author: Mrs A

    Location: Spello, Umbria, Italy

    Wednesday: We only drove 15 minutes to Spello, just 10km away from Assisi, everything we had read suggesting it was worth a visit.

    We took quiet winding roads through agricultural land, grateful we didn’t meet any other traffic along the way.

    Maybe just room for a cyclist to pass here…fabulous roads to drive on as long as you don’t meet anyone!
    Gorgeous views accompany us on our way

    Spello is far less well known than Assisi, but its history stretches back just as far. Much of the town is built on Roman remains and foundations, and sits within an old amphitheatre. The churches are often built on top of old Roman temples, and encompass little clues here and there to the past.

    We entered through a grand gateway flanked by towers, amazed that there was not a soul around. In fact that is one of the main appeals of this town – it is so close to Assisi but there are so few tourists here. The streets and buildings are quiet, taking on a pink hue from the Mount Subasio limestone used in their construction. The constant call of swallows can be heard as they swoop catching flies around the rooftops, and the hum of insects on the ever present flowers.

    Where are all the people?
    These stone walls were restored in the early 1900s

    Every corner is filled with flowers
    Pretty pathways in all directions
    A lovely looking villa
    Every little space is used for pots of colour
    Richness of colour in every direction

    Seppo is full of flowers, every windowsill, doorstep and corner brimming with blossoms. The few people we did see were often tending to their pots, painting wooden planters, replacing dying plants with new ones.

    A local gardening enthusiast tends to his pots

    There seemed to only be one cat in Seppo…quite a chunky one too!
    Fine views across the Umbrian countryside

    From the top of the town there are fabulous views back across to Assisi, a monastery behind us enjoying this view daily.

    Assisi on the hillside opposite
    Wander around forever and never see another person!

    Heading off down yet another enticing lane way
    Will we get tired of these views?
    A flower within a flower?
    If only we could understand the stories behind this architecture

    We tried to find somewhere nice to have lunch, but the menus were quite restrictive in terms of dairy-free, and the restaurant we really wanted to go to was closed on Wednesdays.

    Mr A making use of the Google Translate app to ask about dairy-free meals

    So we wandered back through the town, calling in for some wine tasting on the way through (three small glasses for €10), and popping our heads into the Chiesa di Saint Andrea, a church built in the 11th century, an example of Francisan architecture.

    Hard to resist another little alleyway to explore

    Chiesa di Saint Andrea
    Frescos by Tommaso Corbo in 1532

    We’ve seen sculptures like this all over Italy

    It was well worth the visit to Seppo. We didn’t buy any wine, the prices set for the American market (two to three times the usual cost!) rather than the Italian value we have become accustomed to. It would be a great location to stay if visiting Assisi and wanting to avoid the crowds, assuming you had a hire car you could park outside the town walls.

    We, meanwhile, jumped back on the road and continued our journey towards the east coast.

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    4 June: Are we getting tired of all these lovely villages? Not yet!

    Author: Mrs A

    Location: Assisi, Umbria, Italy

    Tuesday: While sad to leave Lago Trasimeno, we were keen to see some more of the area before we were due in La Marche on the eastern side of Italy. We decided to head to Assisi. Mr A was originally reluctant, claiming it was ‘too much about religion’, but given the whole town is a UNESCO world heritage site, I felt it was a location not to be missed.

    It was a short hour’s drive and we were soon pulling up at a relatively new sosta outside a motorhome owning farmer’s house. What a view of Assisi it had!

    We were also excited when a little ginger kitten came bounding up to greet us, six month old Esther is an Italian camping-cat!

    Cheeky Esther bounds into Truffy for an explore
    I wonder if she meows in Italian?

    We wasted no time in getting out the ebikes and heading up the steep hill into town.

    Mr A heading under the city gateway

    As we rode up through the streets, very thankful for the electric motors helping us on our way, we passed a whole mixture of stone archways, pillars and building styles from throughout the ages.

    At the very top of the hill there sits a fortification, the Rocca Maggiore, more than 800 years old. The views from here are fabulous, looking across the patchwork valley of Tescio. The castle has been built, pillaged, restored again and again in its history – it’s in pretty good nick these days but we didn’t go in.

    Rocca Maggiore
    Solid stone walls more than 800 years old
    Fabulous views across the valley
    Look where these little bike bring us!

    The settlement of Assisi has been populated for thousands of years, with evidence dating back to 1,000 BCE when the Umbrians lived on the hill top in a small fortified settlement. The Etruscan civilisation took over around 450 BCE, introducing architecture heavily influenced by the Greeks, and then 295 BCE was when the Romans took over central Italy.

    A Roman water trough still adorns a square

    You may have heard of Saint Frances of Assisi? He was canonised in the 1200s, born and buried in Assisi and is co-patron-saint of Italy along with Saint Catherine of Siena. Pilgrims still flock to the town, and we saw several monks in long brown robes strolling the streets.

    There are indeed a lot of churches in Assisi, containing magnificent frescoes and paintings by famous Italian artists. But churches aside, the history and architecture is fascinating, often intermingled through the ages.

    Piazza del Comune

    Santa Maria Sopra Minerva
    These pillars date back to the 1st century BCE – part of a temple dedicated to the Egyptian Goddess Isis
    Santa Maria Sopra Minerva – interior from the 1500s, covered in frescoes
    Magnificent painted ceilings

    We made our way gradually through the streets, exploring nooks and crannies and stopping to try some local produce – some delicious Umbrian wine, olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

    A delicious crisp fresh dry white from Umbria

    Sold! One tin of extra virgin olive oil and one aged balsamic ‘no caramel in here!’ – bought from Francesco, such a character…

    Love the sign outside Francesco’s shop: ‘Please come in and taste now the best olive oils and balsamic vinegar, Later you will not feel like walking up again. Don’t miss this chance.’

    Houses frame yet more views of the surrounding countryside as we descend through the town
    Such a clean and uncrowded city

    The most famous of all the churches is probably the biggest, Basilica of St Francis. It is also the most visited, with coach trips heading here just to see the artwork here. I recall visiting while an art student at university, way back in February 1990. The temperature was slightly different then, I can tell you – think snow flurries and bitterly cold wind! I decided not to go back in, but did a fly by on the bike to remember how it looked.

    Outside the Basilica – inside, frescos painted by Giotto depict St Francis’ life
    A grand entrance way

    As we returned to camp, the farmer and sosta manager pointed out his cat had a litter of four kittens needing good homes. They’re only a month old at the moment, so too young to adopt, but very adorable…no room for another cat in our life though, our Aussie Miss Tassie is still our most important fur child.

    Kitten fur is just so silky soft

    We settled down to a relaxing evening, enjoying the view as the lights turned on across Assisi.

    Better than watching the TV – I even got a cat curled up on my lap for half an hour!

    The Basilica of St Francis all lit up
    Looking up to the castle
    Sunset over Umbria
    Santa Maria degli Angeli – just around the corner from our camp. Famous for housing the home of St Francis and his followers – where he founded the Franciscan order and also where he died in 1226.
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    2 – 3 June: A lakeside retreat in Umbria

    Author: Mrs A

    Location: Castiglione del Lago, Lake Trasimeno, Umbria, Italy

    Sunday: Although part of me felt I really should be spending more time in Florence, perhaps visiting the art in the Ufizzi Gallery or one of the many Leonardo da Vinci exhibitions I just couldn’t face a day amongst the crowds after getting back to camp well after midnight from the UK.

    Instead we packed up and hit the road, driving just over an hour south-east from Florence to Lake Trasimeno. At 128 square kilometers surface area, Lake Trasimeno is the fourth largest lake in Italy (slightly smaller than Lake Como, the third largest). The town I selected purely on the reviews of where to stay – the lakeside sosta sounding peaceful and picturesque – just what the doctor ordered.

    After a relaxing lunch, we jumped on the bikes for a ride. There is a route which goes right around the lake – just over 70kms, but apparently the heavy rains during the winter have raised the lake’s levels and some of the pathways are covered with water. We decided to do a 45km return ride, heading towards the north of the lake from our sosta. It was a perfect day for ride – the weather warm but not too hot, birds singing, cuckoos calling from the woodland, butterflies fluttering by, everyone in a great mood…

    Such a picturesque ride

    The pathway wound its way along the shore, through poppy lined fields and over reed lined bridges. The views kept on coming.

    Couldn’t resist this diversion for a perfect field of poppies!

    You often don’t see the water, but the surrounding countryside is lovely
    A brief water break
    A rowing boat sitting on a quiet inlet
    I had to run over this rickety old bridge
    The locals enjoy a cooling dip too

    Definitely up there with one of the best rides we have ever done, and one we’d be keen to repeat and perhaps complete the whole circuit.

    Monday: We started our day more locally, jumping on the bikes again and heading into Castiglione del Lago. As with many towns with an ancient history, this is located up on a hill, overlooking the lake. It has a fortification which dates from 1247, currently used for shows with its natural amphitheatre.

    ‘Castle of the lion’ – which later became Castiglione…
    Looks like a great spot for moonlight cinema
    Remains of round towers
    Ancient olive trees cast strange shadows with their near hollow trunks

    The old town is very pretty, full of bars, restaurants and little shops selling local produce. Mr A did find a shop with a 50% off sale and made a few clothes purchases, and we did a little wine tasting along the way. Around every corner there is a medieval gateway framing yet another fine view. Just lovely.

    Perfect eBike territory with lots of steep hills
    Free wine and chorizo tasting? Why not!
    Another gateway frames a lovely view
    More lake views across the terracotta rooftops

    Mr A had spotted Cantina Del Trasimeno, a wine co-operative, not far from where we were camped which was offering free wine tasting, so we decided to head along late afternoon for a sample. It turns out it is an outlet for more than 2,000 wineries from the local region – that’s the area around the lake, not even the whole of Umbria!

    Mr A looking excited to sample some local grapes
    Our lovely host – excellent English skills and some fabulous wines

    We tried a selection of rosetta, blanco and rosso wines, and placed and order for 18 bottles. We are meeting up with friends in a week’s time and are keen to share some local drops.

    From here, we jumped back on the bikes and back along the lake, it was Monday afternoon after all, and the lakeside bars were already serving. We found a bar with nice waterside tables and settle down with a beverage to enjoy the view.

    Ahh the serenity
    Dramatic looking skies did not bring any storms

    We really like the feel of this area, a lot less touristy than Tuscany (we barely heard an American accent – sorry USA friends!) and very beautiful. The wine is delicious, the climate lovely at this time of year and for us the cycling opportunities not too hilly and interesting. It is definitely a region we would be keen to return to in the future. Added to our (ever growing) list!

    Enjoying our lakeside view – just €16 a night
    Final sunset…off in the morning
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    30 May – 1 June: Flying visit to London for news about Darth Vader…

    Author: Mrs A

    Location: Brighton and London UK

    Thursday: There was no sleep all night as I awaited my 4.45am alarm to send me off to the airport for my flight to the UK. I farewelled Mr A and taxied to Firenze airport.

    Boarding Vueling Airlines flight to London Gatwick

    All went without a hitch and my sister Helen met me at Gatwick Airport with my niece and nephew, Elliot and Isabel.

    We had a lovely morning taking the kids to a local park, the cloud clearing to a lovely bright sunny day.

    Elliot and Isabel being entertained at the park

    It was so good to have some time with my sister before Friday’s appointment in London.

    Sisters – off to the pub for dinner

    Friday: Regular readers will know I have a rare disease, idiopathic subglottic stenosis (iSGS). Sadly there is no known cause or definitive treatment for this disease, which basically results in your airway closing up, filling with scar tissue. The reference to Darth Vader relates to how it sounds when you’re breathing through a narrow airway!

    Since December last year, I have been trialling a new procedure which involves injecting steroids into the scar tissue while awake (under a local anaesthetic). It has been working really well, and until about Easter I had no issues with breathing. Unfortunately, since late April I had been starting to struggle more and more, with this visit to see an Otalaryngologist in London the only way to really understand what’s going on. It was a day I was simultaneously looking forward to and dreading, wanting to know more, but fearing I knew the answer already.

    I caught the train up to London, and then across to Kew Gardens. There I met with a fellow iSGS patient, Jacky, with whom I have become friends after meeting online via the support group I run on Facebook.

    My hospital appointment wasn’t until 3pm so I had a chance to spend some time doing something for me. I have seen many friends visiting Kew Gardens and the Chihuly Glass Sculpture exhibition and was keen to go for myself.

    A little bit like my head is feeling!

    Beautifully restored Victorian greenhouse

    Perfectly popping colour

    You can almost imagine these sprouting out of the soil
    Like amazing flowers bursting out of the greenery

    There be dragons…

    Some look better when you step away from the glass and look at the big picture

    Wonderful water lilies

    Jacky was a great guide, and we explored the incredible sculptures in amazing settings. We spent a couple of hours in the gardens before parting ways.

    I headed off to Charing Cross Hospital (nowhere near Charing Cross station, interestingly enough, but nearer Hammersmith) for my otolaryngologist (ENT) appointment.

    I didn’t wait long before Mr Chadwan Al Yaghchi (Chad) called my name. Chad is a trusted colleague of Guri Sandhu, the expert consultant who I have been seeing in the UK since 2014 and one of only a few doctors who does the steroid injections under a local anaesthetic rather than a general.

    I signed my approval forms and had a laryngothracheoscopy (a camera which passes up through your nose, down your throat, past your vocal cords and into your trachea).

    The camera showed the scarring was returning to my airway, and in the area it had built up I was breathing through around 6-7 millimetres (closed by about 50-60% – think about the diameter of a pencil when I should be breathing through at least double that). As you can imagine, any extra mucus will narrow this even further, and constant coughing will cause inflammation which can cause yet further issues. This was very disappointing news, but not that surprising – I already knew it was getting harder to breathe on all these steep hills, I just now had confirmation of why.

    Chad continued with the injections, all done through the camera, and within an hour it was all over. Now I begin the waiting game to see how they impact the scarring. I need to nebulise saline (breathe in clouds!) at least twice daily to keep my airway moist and help avoid issues, and am keeping my fingers crossed my peak expiratory flow (how much air I can blow out at speed) improves, and the scar retreats.

    The story of my breathing over the past year or so….

    The coming week to ten days will be important to determine whether it’s worth flying back in five or six weeks for another injection, or whether I will need to go to more drastic measures and have a dilation operation.

    Exhausted after all the news and procedure, I headed back to Brighton for the evening.

    Saturday: After a few stressful and full days it was nice just to relax with my sister and her family in Brighton.

    Spectacular weather means ice creams and water play

    As the day drew to a close, it was time to head back to Gatwick and fly to Florence. It has been a hectic couple of days, made all the more pleasant for being able to spend some precious time with family. 

    A fine view of Sussex as the plane takes off

    I now know I will be back in London again in July…the question is, will yesterday’s procedure stem the decline in my airway so I can just head back for more injections, or will things continue their downward trajectory and mean I need surgery? Only time will tell…meanwhile I feel even more determined to make the most of our travels.

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    26 – 27 May: Loving being lushes in Lucca

    Author: Mrs A

    Location: Lucca, Tuscany, Italy

    Sunday: It was only a short drive down into Lucca, and our chosen sosta for the night, behind a mechanic’s garage a ten minute walk from the city walls. We parked up and decided to explore on foot, given the threatening skies and promise of forthcoming rain.

    Lucca is one of the first towns we have visited which is not situated on a hilltop – sitting on a plain at the foot of the Apuan Alps with flat cobbled streets. It’s a nice break from climbing stairs and steep pathways! Its history dates back to Roman times, with traces of an amphitheater visible and archaeological remains beneath other buildings.

    It was just lovely wandering into town, ambling down the lanes. Mark was literally salivating around every corner, with shops selling cheese, meat, pickled and fresh produce, pasta, sauces, vinegar, olive oil…the lists are endless.

    Olives, anchovies, fresh pesto…thank you very much
    Oh so much more to try and look at!
    Endless interesting boutiques to explore

    Too much walking and shopping makes for a hungry Mr A
    Multiple old churches and squares.

    We took a break as the rain fell for an Aperol Spritz and a slice of lemon meringue pie for Mr A before continuing our exploration.

    We decided to go out to a local restaurant for dinner and randomly selected one in a quiet suburban street, La Norma, promising us good quality Sicilian food. They certainly delivered!

    From the street it looks like nothing special, but entering the restaurant you’re presented with high vaulted ceilings, with glass skylights, walls lined with Sicilian wine. The menu was hand written, but interesting and we both selected an appetiser and a pasta. Most of the people eating there appeared to be Lucca locals rather than tourists.

    Mark’s appetiser of pecorino and potato compote with black squid ink and olive oil…

    Every dish was like an art work, beautiful colours and textures, thought given to not only the flavours but the visual impact. And we got bonus dishes especially prepared without dairy products, so I could eat them too – a roast potato with a baked quail egg inside….extremely light and crispy artichoke with prawn meat…by the time we reached our pasta dishes we were quite full! We would definitely come back here again. A fabulous first day in Lucca.

    Wandering home after dinner through the empty wet streets of Lucca

    Monday: One of Lucca’s main attractions is the city wall, which remains intact around the city. It is in excellent condition and topped with a wide shared pathway to encourage cycling, running and walking around the city limits. We decided to start our day with a ride around.

    The streets within the walls are a maze of historical buildings, a multitude of churches and museums, grand old monasteries and art galleries. To ride through these cobbled roads is to spend your time noticing many little details – carvings above doors, sculptures inset into stone, ornate gateways…to understand all the iconography of what you’re seeing would be quite a challenge and perhaps a lifetime of work.

    Historical complex of San Francesco
    Mr A riding under one of the grand gateways
    Lucca’s Cathedral – San Martino – built in the 6th century with a cascade of pink, green and white marble

    Fabulous old roses in a monastery garden

    Our network of cycling around Lucca – many one way streets make it a challenge to fill in all the gaps!

    Throughout the day we explored a good part of the inner street network as well as lapping the city at least twice on the walls, clocking up around 25km. The only cat we saw was disappearing down a drain into another world beneath the streets…

    Lucca’s a lovely settlement and definitely worth a visit, especially if you like history, fine food and wine, and shopping for clothes or jewellery. It feels a very safe and friendly area and is definitely up there in one of our favourite Italian towns.

    Onwards tomorrow to Florence, and to adventures new.

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    26 – 27 May: Loving being lushes in Lucca

    Author: Mrs A

    Location: Lucca, Tuscany, Italy

    Sunday: It was only a short drive down into Lucca, and our chosen sosta for the night, behind a mechanic’s garage a ten minute walk from the city walls. We parked up and decided to explore on foot, given the threatening skies and promise of forthcoming rain.

    Lucca is one of the first towns we have visited which is not situated on a hilltop – sitting on a plain at the foot of the Apuan Alps with flat cobbled streets. It’s a nice break from climbing stairs and steep pathways! Its history dates back to Roman times, with traces of an amphitheater visible and archaeological remains beneath other buildings.

    It was just lovely wandering into town, ambling down the lanes. Mark was literally salivating around every corner, with shops selling cheese, meat, pickled and fresh produce, pasta, sauces, vinegar, olive oil…the lists are endless.

    Olives, anchovies, fresh pesto…thank you very much
    Oh so much more to try and look at!
    Endless interesting boutiques to explore

    Too much walking and shopping makes for a hungry Mr A
    Multiple old churches and squares.

    We took a break as the rain fell for an Aperol Spritz and a slice of lemon meringue pie for Mr A before continuing our exploration.

    We decided to go out to a local restaurant for dinner and randomly selected one in a quiet suburban street, La Norma, promising us good quality Sicilian food. They certainly delivered!

    From the street it looks like nothing special, but entering the restaurant you’re presented with high vaulted ceilings, with glass skylights, walls lined with Sicilian wine. The menu was hand written, but interesting and we both selected an appetiser and a pasta. Most of the people eating there appeared to be Lucca locals rather than tourists.

    Mark’s appetiser of pecorino and potato compote with black squid ink and olive oil…

    Every dish was like an art work, beautiful colours and textures, thought given to not only the flavours but the visual impact. And we got bonus dishes especially prepared without dairy products, so I could eat them too – a roast potato with a baked quail egg inside….extremely light and crispy artichoke with prawn meat…by the time we reached our pasta dishes we were quite full! We would definitely come back here again. A fabulous first day in Lucca.

    Wandering home after dinner through the empty wet streets of Lucca

    Monday: One of Lucca’s main attractions is the city wall, which remains intact around the city. It is in excellent condition and topped with a wide shared pathway to encourage cycling, running and walking around the city limits. We decided to start our day with a ride around.

    The streets within the walls are a maze of historical buildings, a multitude of churches and museums, grand old monasteries and art galleries. To ride through these cobbled roads is to spend your time noticing many little details – carvings above doors, sculptures inset into stone, ornate gateways…to understand all the iconography of what you’re seeing would be quite a challenge and perhaps a lifetime of work.

    Historical complex of San Francesco
    Mr A riding under one of the grand gateways
    Lucca’s Cathedral – San Martino – built in the 6th century with a cascade of pink, green and white marble

    Fabulous old roses in a monastery garden

    Our network of cycling around Lucca – many one way streets make it a challenge to fill in all the gaps!

    Throughout the day we explored a good part of the inner street network as well as lapping the city at least twice on the walls, clocking up around 25km. The only cat we saw was disappearing down a drain into another world beneath the streets…

    Lucca’s a lovely settlement and definitely worth a visit, especially if you like history, fine food and wine, and shopping for clothes or jewellery. It feels a very safe and friendly area and is definitely up there in one of our favourite Italian towns.

    Onwards tomorrow to Florence, and to adventures new.

    Posted on

    24 – 25 May: Hello Tuscany…

    Author: Mr A

    Location: Barga, Tuscany, Italy

    Friday: We left the Cinque Terre behind and headed inland into north western Tuscany. Catherine (navigator extraordinaire) had spotted on one of the apps that we use to find camps a winery that was welcoming motorhomes to come and stay on their property. Sosta La Cantina del Vino is also a 5 minute walk from “One of the most beautiful villages in Italy” the hilltop town of Barga, close to Lucca.

    We were greeted so warmly when we arrived, and set up on their lush front lawn, power and water on hand, and invited to a wine tasting later in the day. That’s not a bad start for our first day’s exploration of Tuscany!

    The village awaited so we walked in and I dived into the first providore I spotted, to be offered wine to taste and local produce…its just gets better.

    When in doubt ply your customers with Chianti when they visit!
    A local artist paints inside to classical music

    A wander up to the old part of town and a cafe in a quiet courtyard just couldn’t be resisted.

    The self proclaimed unofficial cultural centre of Bargo – Da Aristo di Togneri Lorenzo

    We tried the local bean, lentil and potato soup, just delicious. Some local cats even decided to let us get our feline fix. 

    I carried on to sample local cheeses and meats, then we rolled down the hill to camp.

    I decided to take a quick explore on the bike. Thank goodness for that Bosch engine I would have never have made it up these hills so quickly and seen so much.

    Endless picturesque lanes to explore

    I still burnt a few calories though and worked up a thirst for wine tasting. What a grand affair this was, with Prosecco, then rosato then a Chianti, with each wine local delicacies were served.

    

    Not your usual tasting

    The nibbles kept on coming

    We shared the tasting with the occupants of a couple of other motorhomes that were parked there as well. It was quite an international evening with Germans, an Israeli, Italians and us with a couple of nationalities to chose from. Sometimes we play the Australian card, as Brits dont seem to be too popular right now in Europe. It’s more of a shaking of heads and some quizzical eyebrows and wishing them the best of luck on their separate path post Brexit.

    Saturday: We had arrived in low cloud, but waking the next morning this view had opened up.

    A fine view to wake up to

    Wow – after spending so many years in a country that’s basically flat with a few bumps, it thrills us to see mountains like this. I headed off into the village to source breakfast and discovered it was market day. Catherine’s “fear of missing out” kicked in and she joined me to pick up some local goodies.

    Plenty of fresh produce to choose from

    Following a delicious lunch consisting of some of our fresh purchases, we went out for a ride on the bikes to explore more of the area, enjoying the gorgeous spring sunshine and perfect temperatures in the early 20s.

    The Duomo of Barga – 11th-16th centuries – a good example of Romanesque architecture
    Th limestone church was restored in the early 1900s following extensive earthquake damage
    Fabulous view from outside the church – twice a year there is a double sunset viewed from here through an archway in the mountain across the valley
    A large moth hanging out in town
    In the Middle Ages, Barga was known for is manufacture of silk

    The further out you ride, the greater the views become, incredible vistas with the mountain ranges looming high over the town

    Barga, perched up on the hillside
    Pania della Croce, a mountain of the Apuane Alps dominates the skyline

    I watch life in Tuscany unfold, trying to figure out what’s peculiar to the region, so what is different about people’s lives here and what’s universally the same. One of the main joys of travel for me. Striking up conversations and learning what I can. I think the big difference seems to be the rhythm of the day, with many, but not all, businesses closing for an afternoon break (the “riposa”). Some said they use the time to return home to family if possible, then head back to work mid afternoon. Family time seems to be given higher priority, and lives seem the richer for it. However, to close your business when so many tourists are passing its door and want to spend money when suits them is a brave decision. Some say the tradition is dying away, but I saw no evidence of that in this town in Tuscany with around 80% of business closed for several hours while us tourists marched past with a hungry look in shop windows.

    Sunday: It was time to leave, and that meant no HGVs on the roads today, another pleasant change from what we’re used to in Australia. They are banned in Italy from Sunday travel at slightly different times depending on the time of year. What a relief on some of these twisty roads! We are now heading into Lucca, but that’s for Catherine to share.

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